Table saw blade issues

[Kevin Lauck]

Hi everyone,
I own a Delta 36-725 table saw purchased about 4 months ago. At the same time I bought a Irwin Marples 50 tooth combo blade. I've put a lot of wood through it but have had an issue with it wobbling from time to time. If I try to cut a board (doesn't matter rip or crosscut) it'll start fine but then sound like it surges and you can see the blade take a slightly larger bite (very small but noticeable when you're cutting) out of the wood. Doesn't seem to matter if I push the wood faster or slower.
I figured for fun I'd switch back to the stock blade and although it might not be as clean of a cut I don't have the same issue as the Irwin. The stock blade also seems quieter.
Any thoughts of what the issue is? Blade warped? Teeth bad?
Have a good Thursday!
Kevin

[David Eisenhauer]

So, you are saying that the resultant cut kerf of the Irwin blade is wider than the resultant cut kerf of the OEM blade? Is the surge an electrical surge? some kind of blade surge? I guess that no wobble observed with the OEM blade means that the motor flange is clear of debris and is reasonably flat, but you need to confirm that by a close look see and maybe a light clean-scrub with some scotch brite or steel wool type product. If the resultant cut kerf of the OEM blade matches the thickness of the OEM blade, then the Irwin is the issue. The louder noise would seem to indicate a wobble on the Irwin as well. Look hard at the Irwin around the hole in the blade area, but I would think strong about returning that blade. Wobbles may very well wear on the motor arbor-flange arrangement.

[Art Mann]

If the work piece isn't controlled with enough force, the blade can break out into a vibration that will do something like you described. If that is the case, then the blade is not at fault. I'm not saying that lack of control is your problem but it is something you could try to improve on and see if it helps. I had similar experiences years ago.

[mike holden]

If you have a problem with one blade and NOT the other, then stop using the problem blade. Return, replace, trash, recycle, or whatever the problem blade.
Irwin is a reputable brand and I would not hesitate to get another. (although if the second Iwin gives the same results, well, you know what to do)
Without examining the blade, it would only be a guess as to the root cause of the "wobble", and really, it makes no difference as long as the blade is at fault.
Mike

[Jim Dwight]

It might not be wobbling, it could be sawdust not clearing off the blade and becoming jammed in the cut. I guess that might result in some blade movement but I wouldn't call it a wobble. I've had this happen, particularly when I rip with a combination blade. Cutting slower helps. Ripping blades have deep gullets to help clear the sawdust. Gullets on combination blades are much smaller.

[Jamie Buxton]

I call that flutter. In my experience it happens more with thin-kerf blades than full-kerf blades. (Full kerf: 1/8". Thin kerf more like 3/32", or sometimes even less.)) It also happens more with dull blades than sharp ones.

[Bryan Lisowski]

I am thinking you may have a dull blade or there is a build up of dust somewhere near the arbor.

[Earl McLain]

I am thinking you may have a dull blade or there is a build up of dust somewhere near the arbor.

I'd add pitch on the teeth to that list as well. After "running a lot of wood through it", even dry hardwoods leave a residue that forces the blade to work harder. Can't speak for saw blades, but when I have to work harder, I begin to behave badly!!

earl

[Wayne Lomman]

This is a blade problem. A good quality blade won't do this even if blunt. I can't think how Irwin blades would be any different here but I only use them as throw away in the portable circular saw for rough cutting. They are not a precision tool, nor is the quality consistent. Scrap the dud blade and get a good one. Cheers

[Kevin Lauck]

So, you are saying that the resultant cut kerf of the Irwin blade is wider than the resultant cut kerf of the OEM blade? Is the surge an electrical surge? some kind of blade surge? I guess that no wobble observed with the OEM blade means that the motor flange is clear of debris and is reasonably flat, but you need to confirm that by a close look see and maybe a light clean-scrub with some scotch brite or steel wool type product. If the resultant cut kerf of the OEM blade matches the thickness of the OEM blade, then the Irwin is the issue. The louder noise would seem to indicate a wobble on the Irwin as well. Look hard at the Irwin around the hole in the blade area, but I would think strong about returning that blade. Wobbles may very well wear on the motor arbor-flange arrangement.
David,
The kerf on the Irwin isn't larger but as a another post comments it's almost a flutter. I've cut a few more boards with the OEM blade and although not as nice of a cut I didn't have the previous issue. I did lightly scrub the flange with some fine steel wool.

[Kevin Lauck]

If the work piece isn't controlled with enough force, the blade can break out into a vibration that will do something like you described. If that is the case, then the blade is not at fault. I'm not saying that lack of control is your problem but it is something you could try to improve on and see if it helps. I had similar experiences years ago.
Art,
Deinitely something to look into. Thanks.

[Kevin Lauck]

The blade has been set aside for the time being.

[Kevin Lauck]

It might not be wobbling, it could be sawdust not clearing off the blade and becoming jammed in the cut. I guess that might result in some blade movement but I wouldn't call it a wobble. I've had this happen, particularly when I rip with a combination blade. Cutting slower helps. Ripping blades have deep gullets to help clear the sawdust. Gullets on combination blades are much smaller.
Jim,
I've wondered if it could be the blade clearing dust. It didn't seem to help if I went slow or fast though. I do a lot of ripping so I might as well invest in a good rip blade.

[David Eisenhauer]

IMO, a dedicated rip blade for hardwood ripping is almost a mandatory blade to own. There are some very good combo blades out there that work very well for cabinet-grade or hardwood veneered plywood which allow you to work around not having a dedicated "good" plywood blade, but when you have a bunch of hardwood 3/4" or thicker to rip, a dedicated rip blade really shines. A decent carbide rip blade lasts forever through many sharpenings.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Sounds like blade is getting hot. Put blade on arbor, and check for run out, not just on body, but teeth also. Dull blade will cause heating.

[Eric Commarato]

buy a good blade???