Table saw died

[Chuck Mayuski]

Have a 10" 3hp single phase Jet table saw. It stopped in the middle of ripping some plywood. Breaker was fine,no smoke, nothing. The only thing was it had a bit of a "kick" when I turned it on for the rip. Switch maybe? Help.

[Dave Richards]

Maybe the start capacitor?

[Matt Day]

Caps are always the first and easiest thing to check.

[Rich Riddle]

A switch is extremely simple to meter as long as you own a multimeter. It's also a free thing to check. Then the capacitor. Do you own a multimeter?

[Michael Dye]

Take a look at the heaters (overloads). You might have toasted one of them. That happened to my PM66 years ago while ripping some thick stock. I used a short section of wire to bypass the link until I could get the proper replacement.

[Chuck Mayuski]

No idea, never had this happen and I always vacuum and blow out the motor. I know the on off buttons don't seem to catch like they normally do. I've had it for about 25 yrs and it's a workhorse but not abused .

[Chris Hachet]

No idea, never had this happen and I always vacuum and blow out the motor. I know the on off buttons don't seem to catch like they normally do. I've had it for about 25 yrs and it's a workhorse but not abused .Motors ahve this stuff happen all of the time. I am state licensed as an Electrician in Ohio and have worked as a refrigeration mechanic as well. I currently work in the facilities department of a small university.

Nothing to worry about, probably a cap, overload or switch....

...and nothing related to abuse. Things get old and break. I would buy an extra of whatever you find it is so you ahve one on hand.

Chris

[David L Morse]

..I always vacuum and blow out the motor. I know the on off buttons don't seem to catch like they normally do.

When you blow out the motor do you also open up the switch box (after unplugging the saw) and blow the dust out of that?

[John Terefenko]

Is there a thermal overload button on the motor somewhere?? It may have tripped and needs to be reset if it is an older motor.

[Myk Rian]

Maybe the start capacitor?
The saw was running when it stopped. Not the capacitor.
Switch contacts are likely. Either in the motor, or the start stop switch.
240 volt supply? Make sure you have power to both legs.

[Chuck Mayuski]

Not to sound stupid but where would I look for the heaters/overloads?

[Chuck Mayuski]

Yes, but the switch unit is sealed pretty well and very little dust makes its way in. I' m thinking switch but have no knowledge or meter to test it

[Chuck Mayuski]

Don"t own one and would not have a clue......electronics are not my strong suit but I quess I might have to learn real quick.

[Chuck Mayuski]

Yes 240, know where to check in the motor? Its also a magnetic switch if that makes any differance......?

[Robert Engel]

I would call Jet I have had excellent experience talking to their techs.

Could be lots of things like a capacitor or there is a centrifugal brake on the motor that may be the problem.

It would be very easy to check the switch with a voltmeter before calling Jet.

[Malcolm McLeod]

Yes 240, know where to check in the motor?

You can get a multi-meter that will suit the task from the BORG-esques for $15-$20.

Unplug the saw.

Open the cover on the motor's electrical box and there should be 3 wires coming from the switch (2 hot and 1 ground). The hot wires may have wire nuts or bayonet-style connectors. Make sure that you can safely get the multi-meter's leads into contact with the hot wires, but not expose yourself to shock or short a hot to the frame. (You can disconnect the hot wires and leave them 'hanging' free, if necessary.)

Reconnect the saw's power plug. Press the start button. Use the multi-meter to measure voltage on the hot wires at the motor for 240V power. Also measure each hot to ground (120V).

Unplug, reconnect, and re-install covers as needed.

If you have 240V between the hot legs, the problem is in the motor.

If you don't have 240V (hot<>hot) and/or no 120V (both)(hot<>gnd), the problem is in the switch/starter/wiring.

It will be much easier to provide further assistance, once you have 'split' the potential problem sources in half.

[peter gagliardi]

If its a contractor type saw- motor hanging off the back, with no cabinet base, look on the end of the motor opposite the pulley, there is a little recessed button- usually red. Push it in, that is the overload.

[Chuck Mayuski]

Thanks so much,I'll give it a shot

[Charles Lent]

I no nothing about your Jet table saw, but every 3 hp saw that I've ever had experience with has had a motor starter, which is nothing more than a big relay in a box, usually on the back of the saw cabinet and two buttons in a small box on the front of the saw labeled start and stop. Frequently, the stop button contacts get dirty or sawdust gets in the box and between the switch contacts. The stop button contacts are normally closed (on) connecting the wires together and open when the stop button is pressed. If this circuit opens due to bad contacts, dirt, or sawdust, the saw will stop like you describe. It may also only operate while you are holding in the start button and stop immediately when you release the start button. This sounds to me to be the most likely source of your problem and it's quite easy to fix.

Charley

[Chuck Mayuski]

I will gladly take any advice you can give me.The stop and start do nothing and there is power to the switch. It is a magnetic switch if that makes a differance. the buttons don"t "catch" in either on or off,you can just push them and nothing...as if maybe the contacts are open.????? grateful for any advice you can give but I'm kinda thinking its the switch assembly.

[Arthur Fleming]

By any chance, do you live in or near, Massachusetts? I'm an electrician, and would take a peek at it for you.

[Brice Rogers]

I have a different thought.

I own a newer large Grizzly lathe and the on-button "catches" if the machine is plugged in. That is, if it is plugged in and I press the start stop safety switch is clicks and stays in. If the machine isn't plugged in the start-stop switch just moves in and out and no click. The switch actually has a small relay built in it. If it is running and I hit the emergency stop, it interrupts the little internal relay and removes power. So, if your old switch used to click but doesn't any longer, then the power switch is likely the culprit.

[Robert Engel]

If you have 240V between the hot legs, the problem is in the motor.


Reading between the two hots will be zero.

You have to check both legs to ground.

[Malcolm McLeod]

Reading between the two hots will be zero.

You have to check both legs to ground.
Robert, if you have a 240V plug in your shop, please use a meter to check the voltage between the hot legs and let me know what you get.