Been Using the Bandsaw a Bit the Last Couple Days

[Mike Goetzke]

I've used a BS on and off for years.... I'm working on a garden bench for my wife and it required several BS operations (Grizz G0513X2). Couple issues I noticed (well maybe not for the first time): First is I'm 5'-10" and find I had to bend down when making the cuts (height of my BS table is 39-1/2"). This has to be a bigger pain in the back for taller woodworkers? Secondly, this has always bothered me, it's hard to get light where you need it! That dog gone blade guard goes so low makes it hard to get good light on the cut line (I actually had good success using a silly looking headlamp). Any help for the future appreciated.


Thanks,

Mike

[Dave Cav]

I have the same bandsaw, and I'm 6'5". I put mine on a mobile base that raised it about 3 or 4 inches, and the table height hasn't been a problem for me.

I had the same problem with the blade guard. I cut several inches off of the bottom of it. Problem solved.

[Mike Henderson]

I agree with your height complaint. My bandsaw is too low, also, but it's pretty big (20") and getting it up would be a problem. I had a smaller 14" bandsaw before I got my present one and it was quite a bit higher and easier to use. It was on a stand, however.

I use a light with a magnetic base so I can attach it wherever it's convenient.

Mike

[Alan Schwabacher]

I don't know if it would fit as well on your saw, but the JANSJÖ LED lamp from Ikea has a clamp that holds it firmly to the guidepost and a very flexible stem and small head that easily lets you point it where it's most helpful without blocking the view. It also happens to be very cheap. Mine is set to turn on and off with the saw.

[Van Huskey]

Magnetic gooseneck LED lights make a huge difference.

Bandsaw height for an all-rounder is a difficult issue. For resawing you tend to want a low table height and for contour cutting higher (up to around 40") is actually nice for most people. It is one reason I prefer multiple bandsaws so you can get the best tool for the job.

[Lee Schierer]

Magnetic gooseneck LED lights make a huge difference.

My magnetic base goose neck isn't LED, but I can usually get the light where I need it. If you don't want a mobile base, build a plywood box to set you saw on to raise it up.

[Marc Burt]

They're expensive but I put one of the Laguna bandsaw lights on mine. The joints actually lock firmly and it stays where I put it. I actually bought mine used from somebody here. I have the 19" Grizzly but have the same problem with seeing and table height. I intend to build a platform eventually...you because I haven't had the time in the 5 or so years I've owned it so far ;)

[John K Jordan]

I've used a BS on and off for years.... I'm working on a garden bench for my wife and it required several BS operations (Grizz G0513X2). Couple issues I noticed (well maybe not for the first time): First is I'm 5'-10" and find I had to bend down when making the cuts (height of my BS table is 39-1/2"). This has to be a bigger pain in the back for taller woodworkers? Secondly, this has always bothered me, it's hard to get light where you need it! That dog gone blade guard goes so low makes it hard to get good light on the cut line (I actually had good success using a silly looking headlamp). Any help for the future appreciated.


Mike, I'm a light fanatic. My bandsaw lighting is perfect now (for me). What I did was wire a separate quad receptacle behind the bandsaw, switched by a separate light switch. This turns on three lights at once. This is on an 18" Rikon.

One light is gooseneck Moffet on bracket high on the right side of the bandsaw with an LED aimed at the right side of the blade. The second is a smaller light with a magnetic base stuck to the bandsaw door, aimed at the left side of the blade. The third is a very bright LED light on a long gooseneck mounted with a strong magnetic base with the gooseneck routed to aim light at the front of the blade. Along with the bright T5 overheads, da ban'saw is LIT!

(I use the same switched circuit method to power seven lights at my primary lathe, but that's a different story.)

The third light is the SuperNova model from Ken Rizza at WoodTurners Wonders: http://woodturnerswonders.com/collections/lamps I get no kickback from Ken but I love these - I buy them when they go on sale. (If ordering CBN wheels at the same time maybe he will cut a deal.) I also use them at several lathes, my milling machine, and at my photo booth (with a diffuser).

I don't have a picture (I can't believe there is something I didn't take a picture of). I never measured the table height (I'm 5'11", shrunk from 6'1"d in my old age) but I never noticed a problem with that. I did put a smaller Delta bandsaw up on blocks and eventually on a mobile base which raised it some. Perhaps to raise yours you could make a stout wooden frame from 4x4s or larger with shallow indentations cut with a forstner bit to fit the leveler feet. Or just bolt the frame to the bottom of the saw and mount the leveler feet on the bottom of the frame.

That would be cheaper than the surgery to shorten your legs. (Here's a story: I know a girl who went through an agonizing procedure to LENGTHEN one leg an inch to match the other one - the surgeon sawed through the bone and held the ends in place with an external frame to make a tiny gap at the cut. As the bones grew back together to close the gap he cranked on the frame to pull the bones apart a little and re-broke the growth. This was repeated many times over a year or so. She didn't want the much simpler operation to shorten the long leg since she wanted to be taller rather than shorter! Yikes.)

JKJ

[Matthew Hills]

Table Height:

If you aren't doing a lot of resaw, consider blocking your bandsaw up (I put my MM16 up on 2x material -- makes the work height slightly better, and also gives me clearance on the outfeed side). This does make it a bit slower to rearrange the shop if needed for a project.

If you are doing extended sawing on a work piece (scroll cuts?) you might think about using a stool.

The other option is to get something like the Zambus casters -- this will raise the saw about 3" and give you great mobility.



Lights:
I use a magnetic, gooseneck light. The long, flexible neck is useful for sneaking in the light where it is needed. (good ambient lighting is also a help)

I'm *really* surprised nobody has come out with a low-profile light right at the guides. Seems quite doable that would be a nice feature that could steer some buying decisions.

Matt

[glenn bradley]

I have a 513X. For detail work and short material it is a bit low, I have a smaller bandsaw for that. For resaw of taller (and heavier) stock it can be a bit high. I'm 5'11"

[lee cox]

I like the bigger lower table on my Minimax 18 bandsaw. When I bought it the guy had it on some large steel wheels with a 2 x 6 frame to raise it up. He was a rather tall guy. I took the base off and use it lower down.

I had a Rikon 14 inch before and I did not like the small high table on the bandsaw.

[John K Jordan]

I measured my bandsaw table height: about 39".

I've always found it comfortable. Thinking about it, if I did a lot of fine, close work I might want it higher. I use this bandsaw a lot to process log sections into turning blanks. Many of these chunks are 10-12" in diameter. If the table were higher I think this kind of work might be less comfortable (and harder to sight down the kerf). Same with resawing, too high might be worse.

JKJ

[Mike Goetzke]

Thanks for all the replies.

As far as height - my BS is on a mobile base which is needed for my garage/shop. Looking at the posts, you are correct, for re-sawing and cutting bowl blanks raising the table height would be a bad thing. On the lighting, I've always thought of doing something about that blade guard like Dave did for two reasons - lighting and to ease setting the bearings (now one needs to look through a couple slots to set the upper bearings).

Forgot to mention - this Grizzly BS has served me well. Only thing I wish it had a blade brake.

Mike

[John K Jordan]

Only thing I wish it had a blade brake.

Funny you should mention that. I have thought about making a brake for my 18" Rikon. It doesn't seem like it would be too hard, I have mill, welders, etc.

Let's see, perhaps... pedal on pivoted lever, bushing, internal lever, spring, coupling, rod, bracket with second pivot, some kind of brake pad on an arm to push against the back side of the lower wheel rim? I should probably find and look at one with a brake and see how it is designed to avoid reinventing the wheel, or brake, that is. Maybe someone who has a brake on theirs can describe the mechanism.

JKJ

[Van Huskey]

Not sure I would want a brake to ride against the wheel rim ,but otherwise you basically have it. Most include a micro-switch that cuts power to the saw which adds to safety. Most use essentially a drum break with a shoe with friction material (which you can get from McMaster Carr) and a partial drum. Laguna has just introduced a disc brake version that any cyclist recognizes as straight from a bicycle and is just an adaptation of a mechanical bike disc brake.

This link has a good picture of the Minimax drum and shoe
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Laguna disc

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Homemade brake


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XbpB_YybO-s

[Darcy Warner]

Olivers had foot brakes that rode on the inside rim of lower wheel.

My Yates has a drum on the top wheel with what looks like a set up off an old truck. Motor has electric brake.

[Van Huskey]

Oliver inside hub brake lining

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A monster solenoid electric brake on probably a 115

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[Darcy Warner]

Oliver inside hub brake lining

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A monster solenoid electric brake on probably a 115

351255

I don't have any pictures, but the 217's I have had were foot brakes and rode on inside of rim. Upper wheel same way.

I have a 116 I am rebuilding for a customer, it has a brake, not sure of the variety yet. Pull wheel this week. It is a early 70s machine.

The first picture is a Yates American.

[Van Huskey]

I don't have any pictures, but the 217's I have had were foot brakes and rode on inside of rim. Upper wheel same way.

I have a 116 I am rebuilding for a customer, it has a brake, not sure of the variety yet. Pull wheel this week. It is a early 70s machine.

The first picture is a Yates American.

You are correct the first picture is a big snowflake I had the picture mislabeled and didn't even look at it. I have seen the ones you are talking about on Olivers but I don't have in pictures. I think the key for a retrofit will be finding a suitable "drum" which I don't think the wheel of smaller modern saws will work.

Curious if there are any cyclists here that can identify the "issue" with Laguna's disk brake.



BTW the Y30 you have for sale is very nice.

[Darcy Warner]

Another option for brakes is to buy a 3phase saw and run it off a vfd.

I don't know if you can add any kind of electronic braking on a single phase saw.

The Yates was way too much work, but it is a joy to use in the mean time.

I need to get on my computer and post some pictures of my 1870's Bentel BS, all original, including paint and pin striping.

One day I will put tires on it and set it up.

[Van Huskey]

Another option for brakes is to buy a 3phase saw and run it off a vfd.

I don't know if you can add any kind of electronic braking on a single phase saw.

The Yates was way too much work, but it is a joy to use in the mean time.

I need to get on my computer and post some pictures of my 1870's Bentel BS, all original, including paint and pin striping.

One day I will put tires on it and set it up.

Or replace the single phase motor on the one someone has and add a VFD, not the cheapest route and resistive braking is relatively slow compared to a mechanical brake but it allows setting up a micro-switch anywhere on the saw to activate by hand or foot to stop it.

No electronic braking on single phase that I know of either but one could add a single phase brake motor but even the Asian variants are not cheap, usually about twice the price compared to a standard motor of the same HP.

I as I am sure others would lobe to see the Bentel. You should do a thread with old your old iron pictures, while I have probably seen most of them you have posted across the internet I would imagine a lot of people here haven't seen them.

[Darcy Warner]

The vfd on my dual disc will do DC injection braking. I have seen lots of short stops on big saws as well.

[John K Jordan]

No electronic braking on single phase that I know of either


I found this. I don't know how expensive it is.
http://www.saldet.com/brake-pak.html

The Short-Stop™ Type A electronic motor brake permits rapid stopping of AC motors by DC injection, which creates a stationary magnetic field within the motor. Braking action is smooth, adjustable, and frictionless, and begins automatically when the motor is turned off.

If affordable that might be a nice bandsaw addition.

JK

[Patrick Curry]

I've got one of these hanging upside down above my BS table and it works great. $8 with Harbor Freight coupon and batteries are provided (but they don't last long). 351412