Blade Shopping Confusion! Best 2 Blades for a 3hp?

[Patrick Irish]

I've been using a Diablo (home depot) 10" combination on my Bosch jobsite. Great blade and many of the cuts are glue ready.

Finally powered up my craigslist 3hp Unisaw find and need blades for it. The thin kerf diablo blade I don't think will work with the sharkguard riving knife setup I have, certain I need full kerf.

I was looking at a Freud Industrial Glue Line Rip and their combination blade. Went to buy the combination blade at Rockler but it was $20+ more than amazon. Their glue line rip was only $4 dollars more than amazon.

I'm ok getting 2 blades right now. Would a combination and glue line blade be a good start? I'm just a hobby guy cutting hardwood for cutting boards and house projects.

I do have lots of 2"x3" apitong I'll have to cut through. Not sure what I used for that. The diablo combination on my bosch saw would not make it through the apitong.

[Van Huskey]

If I was limited to 2 table saw blades one would be a glue line rip and the other a crosscut specific blade instead of a combo.

[Mike Cutler]

If you're willing to invest in a rip blade capable of being glue up ready, the combination blade becomes moot. Get a true crosscut blade.
I think you need to up your blade count to at least three blades. You really want a plywood blade. ( Hint, it will save the wear and tear on the other two. ;))

[Jim Tabor]

Patrick,
The best kept secret in woodworking is the very good, low price Oshlun blades from Carbide Processors.

[Andrew Hughes]

Apitong now that's some nasty wood.
Dont feel bad that your saw doesn't do well.

Aj

[Jay Houghton]

Boy...which blades to buy is sure a big topic. My line up, and I'm always changing blades on my 3hp Uni, is a Freud glue line rip, Freud thin kerf rip, Freud Plywood/laminate blade, Tenryu cross cut. I have a bunch of other blades but those four would cover everything other than dado and some special blades for box joints, etc. If you're breaking down stock, i.e. ripping a lot, the thin kerf is the way to go. The glue line rip is a full kerf and mills the side of the kerf so requires a lot more power and unless you're really going to glue up from there it's not worth it. You'll thank yourself profusely for the plywood blade if you do any cabinet carcasses. All the top blades have thick carbide and can be sharpened many many times at about $10 a blade so it's worth it to get a good blade.
Jay

[David Eisenhauer]

I have a Freud 24 T FTG rip blade that I bought new in the 1980's and it has been re sharpened many times. At times, it lives on my saw and is used for everything as I don't want to bother to swap it for a couple-three cuts before going back to ripping. It works acceptable enough for cross cutting on either hardwood or plywood. I used to have (also 1980's vintage) a Freud combo blade that worked very, very well as an every day blade before a "friend" got it away from me. I then added a Forrest WWII to the fleet for an every day blade (had to see what the big deal was about WW II blades) and have used it for years. I recently bought a new Freud combo blade to have for when the WW II was off for sharpening. I have also used a 55T ATB "good" plywood-specific blade by Systematic for years, but only pull that out for cabinet grade hardwood plywood. At first, I would diligently swap blades on my Unisaw, but then started leaving the combo blade on for lots of the time and experienced good performance. When it was time for lots of thicker hardwood ripping, I would swap to the 24 T Freud and leave it on for ever, especially before I ended up with the 2nd combo blade. I have always used full kerf blades and heartily recommend the Freud rip blade, Freud combo and the Forrest WW II. having said that, I am positive there are several other blades that perform equally as well and have to believe that the performance of a handful of the top rated blades are basically indistinguishable to the average woodworkers' eye.

[Patrick Irish]

I was 2 hours too late to order a Oshlun general purpose and get free shipping by Saturday which was good because My Unisaw came with an old Everlast full kerd combination blade. Just googled it and it's a good blade apparently. It's dirty, light rust and without a magnify glass, 1 or 2 teeth look bad. Gonna call a local sharpener and see how much to sharpen it.

My dad (contractor for 30+ years) has a bunch of 10" blades, had sharpened years ago and never been used them.

[Rod Sheridan]

I use FS Tools blades.

if I was to own only 2 (not enough, in my opinion you need a minimum of 4), I would purchase an 80 tooth crosscut and a 24 tooth rip blade.

I would also purchase a combination blade, and a TCG blade for melamine/MDF...................Regards, Rod.

[Lewis Justis]

For my 3hp Unisaw, I prefer the Forrest WW II (I have 4) for just about everything. Keep them clean and they last forever.

[Frank Pratt]

If you decide to get a combination, the Freud Premier Fusion is a fantastic blade. Very smooth cut with very little splintering on plywood. But don't be cutting any nails with it. Because of the high bevel angle, those tips will bust right off. I know this for a fact :(

[Ben Rivel]

For my 3hp Unisaw, I prefer the Forrest WW II (I have 4) for just about everything. Keep them clean and they last forever.Same here but for a SawStop 3HP PCS.

[Chris Fournier]

I know that you've asked for a two blade recommendation but I'll suggest three. Planer 40T, this will be used 80% of the time. Then a 24T glue line rip and a 60T crosscut. If you can only have two then lose the planer but be ready to change blades so many times in one day that you'll buy a planer in a weeks time.

[Patrick Irish]

I dropped off the Everlast combination blade at the sharpening place, Bay Area Carbide. Great place! I was eager to buy another blade but the owner said he'd get the blade ready in 3 days be flat, true and sharper than new. Asked what I'd be cutting and I said just a hobbyist and he said this is the only blade I'll need for a bit. Didnt even try to sell me any of the blades he had.

I do plan to get a Skarpaz glue line rip blade, believe it's a 30t and then a 60t crosscut. Turns out Skarpaz (if I'm spelling it right) is located about 45min away south of San Francisco.

[Bruce Page]

The Freud Glue Line Rip and a good combo blade like the FWWII would be my first two choices followed soon after by the Freud LU73R010 Crosscut Saw Blade. You would have the bases covered with these three.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Before buying any other blade, look at Cripe Distributing for the Delta 35-7657, 40 tooth combo. Cost about $20 plus shipping. Two ship for about the same as one (hint, hint.) Check out other blades at Cripe. I own two WWII's, but 7657 stays on saw unless I'm doing sheet goods.

[Patrick Irish]

Before buying any other blade, look at Cripe Distributing for the Delta 35-7657, 40 tooth combo. Cost about $20 plus shipping. Two ship for about the same as one (hint, hint.) Check out other blades at Cripe. I own two WWII's, but 7657 stays on saw unless I'm doing sheet goods.

Thanks Bruce for the tip! The Ever Last 50t blade I'm getting sharpened should cover the universal stuff like a 40t would. I scored a full kerf sharpened 60t from my dad that should be good for crosscutting. Can't tell the grind but looks like an ATB.

From my research, I need either a glue line rip or some under 30t rip blade. Something to power through 2.5" apitong. I guess there are some new hybrid 30t ATB blades which can cut up to 2" of material. The "glue line" blades supposedly can't cut well above 1" thick. I almost bought an Amana 30t ATB blade but did more reading and now I feel I need like 6 blades, this is killing me!

[scott spencer]

Since you've already got the Everlast 50T for general use, I'd get a 24T FTG full kerf rip blade for ripping the 2.5" stuff....30T would be on the high side for that task.

If you want a top notch crosscut blade for fine crosscuts and plywood, I'd get an 80T Hi-ATB blade. Infinity, Freud Industrial, or CMT Industrial all have good examples of both of those blades at reasonable prices. The dedicated task specific blades will each do better than a general purpose in their respective sweet spots.

The US made Delta/DW 7657 40T ATB that Bruce referenced is one of the best bangs for the buck going in saw blades, but for now it looks like you have that covered with your Everlast....but if you ever need to replace that or just want a spare, the 7657 is tough to beat for $30 to your door.

[Mike Dowell]

I use one blade only. I have two of them, and they are the Carbide Processor combo. If you can get a more glue up ready rip blade, I'd have to see it, because this blade is pure magic. It crosscuts, it rips, it just really gets the job done. If you want the model number, PM me, and I'll look up my receipt.