First time shop/Table saw question

[Alex Kaneaster]

I’m looking for some advice regarding a first time workspace. I’m a beginning wood worker, but I’ve researched things pretty extensively so far. I’m at the point of being ready to spend some money, but want to run my general situation by experienced folks to see if I’m on the right track. Just looking for opinions, all are welcome.

My current workspace: I rent an apartment and have a narrow single car garage as a workspace. Not much room to work with. I will be buying a home in approximately 2-3 years, maybe sooner. I will make sure I have a much bigger space then. I cannot do any rewiring in my apartment, I only have standard sockets. My workspace when I buy a home will have whatever wiring I need.

My goal is to get a few tools for basic fundamental woodworking. I’m not looking to make anything large, just small boxes and weekend projects. My main concern is getting a table saw and possibly jointer. I feel like I have a handle on everything else. I understand the value of a quality cabinet saw, even if it’s an “introductory” model. I’ve thought about it a ton….and I simply don’t have room for one. Also, the wiring issue limits me even if I had the room. My central question is, do you think something like the Dewalt DWE7419RS would get me through a few years until I have the space, etc, for a proper cabinet saw? I know the drawbacks of a jobsite saw. I’ve looked at several and I’m just not convinced any others would accomplish my goal. All I want right now is a straight and sturdy fence, and the ability to use a dado blade. The fence on this saw seems solid enough, but I have zero experience using it. If it’ll cut straight and stay parallel to the blade for 2-3 years with small projects, I’m fine buying it now and selling it down the road. This isn’t a one-and-done situation, I just need to get the right tool for my situation for the next 2-3 years.

Also, one more question regarding a jointer. Again, I know the value of a full and proper jointer, but same limitations as above. I get the impression a benchtop jointer is a waste of money and I’d be better off with a hand plane of some sort. Is this generally correct?

Edit – I have a little experience with some of these tools. I’m not a complete novice. I’ve been making some so-so projects with what I have. (Compound miter saw, drill press, hand tools) I’ve used a table saw a few times, just not extensively. Thought that was worth pointing out.

[John TenEyck]

You can buy a used Sears cast iron tablesaw in my area for $150, or less. It's larger than the Dewalt jobsite saw, and a whole bunch cheaper. The fence is not great but works. You could throw it away and put on an aftermarket fence like a Vega and still be money ahead. Those saws generally have 1 HP motors and are belt driven. They are quieter and more powerful than the direct drive jobsite screamers. I've had one for 30 years and it still runs fine. Don't get me wrong, I prefer my Unisaw, but the Sears saw still earns a place in my shop. It can run a full dado set and any 10" blade you care to put on it. Mine has the dust collection accessory package, which worked very well when I had it hooked up that way. I've got it plumbed into my central DC now.

New is nice, but bigger is better and saving money is always good.

John

[Robb White]

You might want to think about tracksaws they will take up less room and would be safer than the small saws with less setup and take down time. What are you looking to make and what type of wood will you be using?

-Rob

[Matt Day]

+1 John
Most of us started on a contractors saw and 110V only.

A used 6" jointer and 12" lunchbox planer can be had for under $200 each on CL.

[John Lankers]

+2 John
The Dewalt is not a bad saw but a hybrid saw, a used Sears or Rockwell will likely be cheaper and perform better for what you're planning to use it for.

[John TenEyck]

Oh, I thought of one more thing. If bigger isn't better because of your limited space, then take one or both of the extensions off the saw. With both of them off it will be narrower than the Dewalt. Personally, I'd find a way to leave them on, or I'd set the saw into a work station. With any TS, you need to be able to support the work, unless you plan to use the saw just for ripping narrow stock.

John

[Ron Magliocco]

Where are you located?


I’m looking for some advice regarding a first time workspace. I’m a beginning wood worker, but I’ve researched things pretty extensively so far. I’m at the point of being ready to spend some money, but want to run my general situation by experienced folks to see if I’m on the right track. Just looking for opinions, all are welcome.

My current workspace: I rent an apartment and have a narrow single car garage as a workspace. Not much room to work with. I will be buying a home in approximately 2-3 years, maybe sooner. I will make sure I have a much bigger space then. I cannot do any rewiring in my apartment, I only have standard sockets. My workspace when I buy a home will have whatever wiring I need.

My goal is to get a few tools for basic fundamental woodworking. I’m not looking to make anything large, just small boxes and weekend projects. My main concern is getting a table saw and possibly jointer. I feel like I have a handle on everything else. I understand the value of a quality cabinet saw, even if it’s an “introductory” model. I’ve thought about it a ton….and I simply don’t have room for one. Also, the wiring issue limits me even if I had the room. My central question is, do you think something like the Dewalt DWE7419RS would get me through a few years until I have the space, etc, for a proper cabinet saw? I know the drawbacks of a jobsite saw. I’ve looked at several and I’m just not convinced any others would accomplish my goal. All I want right now is a straight and sturdy fence, and the ability to use a dado blade. The fence on this saw seems solid enough, but I have zero experience using it. If it’ll cut straight and stay parallel to the blade for 2-3 years with small projects, I’m fine buying it now and selling it down the road. This isn’t a one-and-done situation, I just need to get the right tool for my situation for the next 2-3 years.

Also, one more question regarding a jointer. Again, I know the value of a full and proper jointer, but same limitations as above. I get the impression a benchtop jointer is a waste of money and I’d be better off with a hand plane of some sort. Is this generally correct?

Edit – I have a little experience with some of these tools. I’m not a complete novice. I’ve been making some so-so projects with what I have. (Compound miter saw, drill press, hand tools) I’ve used a table saw a few times, just not extensively. Thought that was worth pointing out.

[Chad Bender]

I recommend you consider whether a hybrid TS on casters will fit into your space. I've been using a Craftsman 21833 for ~7 years now, and have found it to be a great saw. I'm in my 3rd shop in those 8 years (this one is 1/2 of a 2 car garage), and the wheels on the TS allow me to easily push it up against a wall when I'm not using it. Hybrids also have built in dust collection ports, which are important!

I also have a benchtop jointer - the Geetech 6" model (similar to the Grizzly). I think some benchtop models are likely junk, and I do wish the beds were longer on the Geetech, but it has served me well for many years without taking up a lot of space. It obviously is not as capable as larger models, but most furniture sized parts are small and easily handled on this jointer. My shop time is limited, so I really value the ability to quickly joint small pieces. I use hand planes for larger stuff, but doing everything that way would dramatically increase build time on projects.

[Jim Andrew]

I have a Dewalt jobsite saw, used when I was in the construction business. Light weight, and a pretty good fence, best of all the small lightweight saws I have used. Might work well until you can get a real table saw. Personally have used many tablesaws, had an old craftsman for years, but was never really happy with a tablesaw until I got my Unisaw with a biesemeyer fence.

[John K Jordan]

I bought a light weight portable saw similar to that to use temporarily and still use it even with a good cabinet saw in the shop. It is light and compact enough to easily store out of the way and easy to carry outside where I don't have to worry about the dust and chips in the shop.

JKJ

[Nick Decker]

John, I had the Dewalt 7480 jobsite saw until several months ago. I think it might have had a slightly smaller table, especially in the infeed distance to the blade, than the one you're looking at. As others have said, it's not a horrible saw and the fence is pretty solid, compared to others in that category.

Other than the table being scary small, I had two other problems with it. The first was the non-consistent size of the miter slots throughout their length. I was using an Incra sled with it and could never get the miter bars adjusted so that the fit snugly all along their length of travel. Spent hours trying to sand and file the spots where the miter bar would bind up. I think whatever coating Dewalt uses on the table is applied with a broom or something, but I never did get that problem solved.

The other problem was trying to cut 45 degree bevels. The cut was just never square. If you plan to cut 45 degree miters for boxes, beware.

I ended up selling it to a carpenter who didn't care about those things, and bought the SawStop jobsite saw. While I would never compare it to a cabinet saw, it doesn't suffer from the things that bothered me about the Dewalt. Expensive, yes, but if there's a better saw in that category I haven't heard about it.

[Alex Kaneaster]

John, I had the Dewalt 7480 jobsite saw until several months ago. I think it might have had a slightly smaller table, especially in the infeed distance to the blade, than the one you're looking at. As others have said, it's not a horrible saw and the fence is pretty solid, compared to others in that category.

Other than the table being scary small, I had two other problems with it. The first was the non-consistent size of the miter slots throughout their length. I was using an Incra sled with it and could never get the miter bars adjusted so that the fit snugly all along their length of travel. Spent hours trying to sand and file the spots where the miter bar would bind up. I think whatever coating Dewalt uses on the table is applied with a broom or something, but I never did get that problem solved.

The other problem was trying to cut 45 degree bevels. The cut was just never square. If you plan to cut 45 degree miters for boxes, beware.

I ended up selling it to a carpenter who didn't care about those things, and bought the SawStop jobsite saw. While I would never compare it to a cabinet saw, it doesn't suffer from the things that bothered me about the Dewalt. Expensive, yes, but if there's a better saw in that category I haven't heard about it.

This is one of my main worries with a jobsite saw. I can live with the other drawbacks of a jobsite saw for now, but I need straight cuts. I'll primarily be using it for small projects like boxes, outdoor stuff, small stuff for my kids, etc. Being able to make accurate cuts with a straight and solid fence is pretty much the only thing I'm looking for at the moment. Has anyone else with a jobsite saw had this problem, or found a solution?

[glenn bradley]

The problem is one of adjustment and alignment. Lower end tools (and some upper end ones) can lack ANY way to make some adjustments. In a tablesaw for example, aligning the blade to the table and miter slots at 90 degrees is only part of the job. You can cut beautiful 90's and have it all go south as soon as you bevel the blade. Do not assume that just because a tool is newer that it is adequate.

[John TenEyck]

The Sears saw suffers from the same problem of non-square bevel cuts as many other saws. It can be resolved, however, and I'm pretty sure threads have been posted here on how to do it. No saw is perfect, even (especially?) new ones, but most can be adjusted to meet your needs. A lot depends on understanding where the issues are and on your willingness to put in the effort to resolve them.

John

[Nick Decker]

John, I did find threads about how to deal with the non-square bevel issue, but I don't recall if they were here or elsewhere. Basically it involved adding shims at certain points where the motor attached to the table. I didn't think I had the know-how or patience to determine which of those points needed shimming or how much. Then there was the question of whether such shimming would affect the squareness at 90 degrees.

The Dewalt does have a good reputation among carpenters, at least the ones I talked to. I did bring this up with the guy that bought mine, and he wasn't concerned about it.



The Sears saw suffers from the same problem of non-square bevel cuts as many other saws. It can be resolved, however, and I'm pretty sure threads have been posted here on how to do it. No saw is perfect, even (especially?) new ones, but most can be adjusted to meet your needs. A lot depends on understanding where the issues are and on your willingness to put in the effort to resolve them.

John

[Keith Keaveny]

I was in a similar situation to you (beginning carpenter/woodworker) and had little experience (but much respect for) a table saw. I have a basement shop so hybrid/cabinets were out of the question. Not sure of your budget but I settled on the Bosch 4100 (cost me around $500 w/ stand) and couldn't be happier. The gravity stand is great for moving it around.

Out of the box the blade gave me burning on one side of the wood (i think it was out around .007" front to back) but after adjustment (and its still out between .001" to .002") it cuts great. Note that the adjustment of the trunnion was a two man job. Fence is rock solid; you need to pull back on the handle when you lock it to get it nice and square (i have an instagram in my profile - I show a video of me running a dial indicator along the fence). The one drawback of the saw is I wish it had more table area, especially in front of the blade. But you can't have everything and all things considered, I am a happy Bosch 4100 owner.

One more thing at the end of the day no matter what saw you get you're going to need to calibrate it. Sometimes it can try your patience but you'll get to know your tools better.

Keith

[Jonathan Lo]

Just got my DWE7491RS yesterday! I've only ran a couple sheets of 1/4 ply through it to make some garage shelves. First impressions were pretty good. I had to adjust the 90. It was tilted outward about 1 degree. Easy fix. checked squareness to fence and miter slots. All good there. Putting it together was pretty easy. Lifting it and the stand together was pretty easy --had to take it off the bench and flip over after putting it together (I'm a fairly husky guy though). I wouldn't want to carry it anywhere. When I turned it on---Holy Cow, is that thing loud! I only have a super old belt driven craftsman to compare it to.

The reason I bought this particular saw: I wanted the wide rip capacity. Never know when you're going to need it. I used it too. Set the fence to 24" and ran the ply across. It did great. I plan on building an outfeed table though. I also do a lot of home projects as well as woodworking, so I like that it's portable. I'll get a stationary when I move into my new shop (eventually).

One thing I didn't like. The bevel adjustment. I'm used to a crank. Not releasing it and adjusting by hand and locking it. Call me ignorant, but I thought all tablesaws had the crank for the bevel.

If you have any specific questions, let me know!

Good luck in your future endeavors and welcome!

[Jonathan Lo]

also: When I make smaller projects that require beveled cuts, I typically use my miter saw. Easier to adjust. I just double check with my gauge.