Birds of a Feather...

[Eric Gourieux]

Our woodturner's group challenge for this month is to turn a platter. I've turned these two platters with feathers. The first is a walnut platter 16" diameter, and the second is pecan approximately 12" diameter. I left them with a basic form, so the feather can be the focus. I applied a few coats of Danish Oil to both and would like to end up with a glossy finish. When the DO is first applied, the feather "pops", but that appearance fades as the DO dries. My typical approach (particularly with the walnut) is to apply multiple coats of Sealcoat, sand, repeat until I get a smooth finish, then apply rattle can lacquer or WIP, sand and buff to a gloss finish.

I could consider buffing the pecan to see if I can get a more glossy finish with the Danish Oil, but I don't want to buff the walnut out of concern that I will get buildup of the Tripoli in the grain of the wood.

Here are my questions:

1) What is your process for getting a more glossy finish?
2) Will the danish oil buff to a more glossy finish on a wood such as pecan?
3) Has anybody applied AO over Danish Oil?
4) Would I be able to apply WOP over the top of DO?

Any experiences or recommendations would be appreciated

(No photobooth shots yet, so the colors are awful)


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[Frederick Skelly]

Eric, I can't answer your questions - dont do many high gloss finishes - but I think the feather in both of those platters shows very nicely. They are quite pretty as-is.
Fred

[John Keeton]

No problem putting WOP over danish oil. I have found that wet sanding walnut at 320 and 400 with WOP will fill the pores and provide a much smoother surface. You may still be able to do that though it obviously is easier on the lathe.

BTW, the feather has a lot of end grain, so it soaks up the finish causing the dull look. It may take more coats.

Nice looking platters!

[Frederick Skelly]

No problem putting WOP over danish oil. I have found that wet sanding walnut at 320 and 400 with WOP will fill the pores and provide a much smoother surface.

Hi John. Got a minute for 2 quick questions?
1. Is WOP wipe on poly?
2. When you wet sand with WOP, are you using the poly while it's liquid or sanding after it dries? Since you mentioned filling the grain, I'm guessing you're using it literally "wet" - pouring it on and sanding with the WOP as the lubricant - but I wanted to make sure. (I do something similar with paste wax on my final coat of shellac on flat work.)

Thank you!
Fred

[John Keeton]

Fred, WOP is wipe on poly and I use it in liquid form, sometimes thinning it just a little to keep producing a slurry. Use a paper towel to wipe the slurry off periodically and force it in the pores. After using 400, and the paper towel, use 0000 to lightly remove excess slurry.

I should add that this process takes only minutes. Don't overwork it as you can repeat it again by being patient and not removing the piece from the lathe.

[Frederick Skelly]

Thanks John!

[Eric Gourieux]

No problem putting WOP over danish oil. I have found that wet sanding walnut at 320 and 400 with WOP will fill the pores and provide a much smoother surface. You may still be able to do that though it obviously is easier on the lathe.

BTW, the feather has a lot of end grain, so it soaks up the finish causing the dull look. It may take more coats.

Nice looking platters!

Thanks, John. I wet sand a lot with AO and similar products but haven't wet sanded with WOP. I'll give it a try and see how it goes. I'll post better pics when I'm done.

[carl mesaros]

As mentioned you can apply most finishes over DO.
This project may benefit from a process I learned from a Captain Eddie video. He uses a 1/3, 1/3, 1/3 ratio of Boiled linseed oil, denatured alcohol, and white shellac. Applied with a paper towel (I use the blue shop towels) while spinning on the lathe. This to me is somewhat time consuming as it requires many many coats, but the end result is quite pleasing. Not ultra glossy but a nice soft luster that is pleasing to the eye as well as the touch. Seems to hold up well also.
Just a suggestion you may want to try sometime.

[Justin Stephen]

No problem putting WOP over danish oil.

Agreed, I do this all the time. All of my platters are finished with WOP either over DO Natural or AO. I don't care for the look of WOP by itself but I do like it as a topcoat.

[Eric Gourieux]

As mentioned you can apply most finishes over DO.
This project may benefit from a process I learned from a Captain Eddie video. He uses a 1/3, 1/3, 1/3 ratio of Boiled linseed oil, denatured alcohol, and white shellac. Applied with a paper towel (I use the blue shop towels) while spinning on the lathe. This to me is somewhat time consuming as it requires many many coats, but the end result is quite pleasing. Not ultra glossy but a nice soft luster that is pleasing to the eye as well as the touch. Seems to hold up well also.
Just a suggestion you may want to try sometime.

Carl, I'll have to look at that one again. I've heard about the process but having tried it yet. Something to keep in mind next time before I take it off of the lathe.

[Dennis Peacock]

I like to create my own WOP by thinning regular gloss poly with 40% mineral spirits. Works really good.

[Eric Gourieux]

I like to create my own WOP by thinning regular gloss poly with 40% mineral spirits. Works really good.

Dennis, do you feel like this is better than commercially available WOP?

[Dennis Peacock]

Dennis, do you feel like this is better than commercially available WOP?

Eric,
It has worked better for me (IMHO) because I can control how much poly I want in the WOP mix. Thinner to get it more in the pores of the wood (especially in colder shop temps) and less thinner in the summer months because the finish liquid is already thinner because of warm or hot summer temps. Also...if I want more poly and less thinner for my WOP mix, I can make it so. Is it better? I don't know but I don't like paying a higher price for a finish that I can make for less than half the typical cost. :) BUT...isn't thinned poly just....thinned poly? ;)

[Tom Brouillette]

350785I had a similar "feathery" look with a spalted Magnolia platter. About 12" x 1.5" DO finish.