new (to me) tool

[Dennis Ford]

A turning friend asked for one of these a while back and I made an extra for myself. It is a piece of 7/8" diameter steel bar with a #2 morse taper on one end, the other end is drilled 5/16" with a set screw is installed. I almost always use a jamb type set-up for reverse turning and prefer to press against the bottom of hollow forms instead of applying pressure to the top. A piece of PVC pipe in a chuck works but this is more convenient.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Looks like a good idea but I have to wonder about run-out because of the shaft being so long. Maybe different lengths for different styles of HF? Great looking piece of wood - lots of curl! Looking forward to seeing it once finished.

[Bert Delisle]

A turning friend asked for one of these a while back and I made an extra for myself. It is a piece of 7/8" diameter steel bar with a #2 morse taper on one end, the other end is drilled 5/16" with a set screw is installed. I almost always use a jamb type set-up for reverse turning and prefer to press against the bottom of hollow forms instead of applying pressure to the top. A piece of PVC pipe in a chuck works but this is more convenient.
Looks very similar in function to the Craft SuppliesUSA drill extender.Carter Strongbore Modular Boring Systemi picked on up for doing long hole boring of tubes, it has a 3/8" bore with set screws on one end and MT2 on the other. I made a wooden cone to slide on the shaft for using it as a bottom holding pressure with centering cone for use on hollow forms held in a chuck. I like the multi use functionality and adjustable length capability. A bit pricey but it works perfectly so it was easily rationalized in my Scrooge-like mind.

[Dane Riley]

I have a collet chuck that will hold a 3/4" steel rod. I have two different padded feet for the rod end to press on the bottom of the hollow form. I have several wood cones with 3/4" center holes and holes tapped for set screws to hold them in place on the rod. The cone centers up the mouth and is adjusted to provide a little bit of pressure.

Run-out does not seem to be a problem. The tailstock holds the base centered and the padding provides some slip. And if you only carve the bottom you can tollerate quite a bit of runout

[Thomas Canfield]

This looks similar to a couple of Don Pencil bars I picked up starting 10 years back with 14" for midi lathe and later 18" for my 3520. The bars are #2 taper 3/4"D with flat along length and 1/4" drill hole at end with set screw. It came with a faceplace that slid and locked onto the shaft to allow adding a wood piece to fit the opening of a hollow form. The 18" in picture has a 1/4" sanding disk holder installed with rubber shelf liner wrapped over to give better friction. 350586

They are handy. The taper wood piece helps to support the work piece and I will also add some tape at times. The main drive is the friction at base against the live center pushing on the pad piece, and it is only used for light cuts shaping the bottom to small nub as Dennis showed.

[John K Jordan]

This looks similar to a couple of Don Pencil bars I picked up starting 10 years back...

The Rubber Chucky guy sells one too that looks much the same, complete with a rubber cone for the vessel opening.

You can also make one from wood held in a jam chuck kor scroll chuck with pin jaws.

JKJ

[robert baccus]

This may not work on all chucks but I use a 1/2" ID galv. pipe in several lengths for the same thing. Definitely not pricey. Using several lengths(threaded) gives several combinations for length. I also use wood cones with a hole to steady tall vases at the top and a padded 2" base on the bottom of the vase. The chuck is a Nova 2 by the way. Cost--maybe 2$. Runout is not a problem as the inside jaws grasp the pipe very well.

[john taliaferro]

I got a Don Pencil one that i use on little jet . Was having one of thoes and decided to make one for my big lathe 1 1/2 "8 i used a nut welded 11/2'' x 2' cold rolled with 1/2 13 threaded hole in the end . I can add eather 1' or 2' extensions .Ive made different plugs for the shaft to fit the job and screw plugs on the tip to fit the bottom or the pilot hole 2" that i leave 1/2" or so in the bottom of the pice . Makes rechucking easey .