Backsplash Plans?

[Dennis Putnam]

I'm making a custom counter top and I'd like to add an integrated back splash plus bull nose front. However, I cannot find anything on how to do either. Does someone have a link or suggestions for both? TIA.

[Wayne Lomman]

Dennis, what materials are you planning to use? Cheers

[Dennis Putnam]

Hi Wayne,

I plan to use light MDF for the counter top. I don't yet know what to use for the back splash and bull nose. The goal is to produce a countertop that a local company will clad in stainless.

[Jamie Buxton]

Hi Wayne,

I plan to use light MDF for the counter top. I don't yet know what to use for the back splash and bull nose. The goal is to produce a countertop that a local company will clad in stainless.

I'd ask your question of the shop that is going to apply the stainless. Some ways to build a backsplash might not work well with their cladding process. For instance, you could make a backsplash which is already fastened to the counter, and they might have trouble getting sheet metal into that tight corner. Or, for another instance, you could hand them a counter with a separate backsplash. They'd clad the two separately, which would be easier for them. Then you'd screw the splash to the counter, with a little caulk in the joint for water sealing.

[Dennis Putnam]

I already did that. They were little help and said they would work out whatever configuration I brought in.

[Bill Adamsen]

The idea of a single piece is extremely appealing from the perspective of maintenance. Assuming that is at least a part of what the client seeks in the solution.

Does the specification call out any patterns on the surface? Quilting, mosaic, burnishing? That might influence whether the fab is simple bend and fold or includes significant welding. I would be inclined to take the shop at their word and fabricate a template/base that fits your space. I've done backsplash and used 1/4" MDF which was clad just fine.

[Dennis Putnam]

But the question is how did you fabricate that? I guess I can use a bull nose router bit for the top of the back splash but how do I make the inside curve and attach it to the rear of the counter top? I assume I need to use multiple layers then route it out but that is the part about which I'm looking for plans.

[Jamie Buxton]

Well, you can do it like the formica guys do. Make most of the substrate from 3/4" particle board. You can use MDF if you want. Most of the counter is just 3/4" thick, but you double over the front inch or so to get 1 1/2" there. Use a roundover bit in two passes to form the bullnose on the front, and one pass to form the roundover at the top of the backsplash. Fasten the splash to the counter with screws and glue. To form the inside corner between the counter and the backsplash, apply a separate piece of wood. Square up a 2x4, and with a round nose bit cut a cove along one edge. After you cut it, rip it away from the rest of the 2x4. Fasten it to the counter+backsplash. I'd nail it, but you can use nearly anything. I'd make the whole thing exactly as long as the kitchen needs; cross-cutting the thing after it is clad in stainless might be challenging.

[lowell holmes]

Make a drawing. By the time you make a cross-sectional sketch, it will come to you.

Will the steel fabricator apply it to plastic laminate. You could put on a pre-formed counter top and let the steel contractor apply the steel surface to the preformed top in place.

[Dennis Putnam]

Thanks for the replies. I think I see now what I need to do. As far as I know I cannot find anyplace to get a custom sized unfinished counter top. As for cladding over laminate, that is not an option. The cladding people will clad over laminate but will not guarantee adhesion.

[lowell holmes]

Check this site.

https://www.stainlesssupply.com/stainless-kitchen-products/docs/stainless-countertops-home.php

[Wayne Lomman]

Dennis, Jamie Buxton is exactly right. The sheet metal guys will have no trouble with this method. If using mdf, use moisture resistant grade, otherwise you will regret it in a few years. Also paint/seal the underside as soon as you get it back so that it doesn't cup. Make the splashback 3/4 thick. Make sure the splash back is at say 91 degrees so that it fits tight to the wall at the top edge. Cheers

[Dennis Putnam]

Will do. Thanks.