How to make this farmhouse dinner table base

[Ryan Gallo]

I'm looking to create a farmhouse-style round pedestal dining table similar to the one shown below. I really like the detail of the vertical indents that run along the base, but I'm not sure how that could be done, other than by hand? I'm not very good on the lathe, but I imagine you could (a) cut down the rough profile, then (b) drag a cutting tool (with even pressure) across a length of the piece, as long as you're registering against a good support that runs perfectly horizontal? Or is there an easier way to accomplish this? Thanks!

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[Ken Fitzgerald]

It's probably done on the lathe. The 4 legs are probably dovetailed into the center piece. A jig can be made for the lathe that acts as a "table" of sorts for a router (a box that can be bolted to the lathe bed). I'd rough turn the center shape and then build the jig out of 3/4" plywood. The top of the jig is slotted to allow one to cut the flat spots where the legs mount. Then make another top for the jig to allow you to route the flutes using the index holes on the lathe headstock to set the spacing.

BTW, that is the way I dovetailed the 3 legs into a Norm Abrams Martha Washington candle stand.

[Ryan Gallo]

Thanks Ken. Looking at Norm Abrams Martha Washington candle stand videos now. :)

I'm trying to envision the jig that would enable the flutes to be cut with a router, and I'm drawing a blank... I don't see how it would be possible to move along the curvature of the profile with a traditional router base plate (maybe the base is removed)?

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Boy did that slide right over my head! Ouch!

You can still make areas flat where the table legs mount using a jig like I did and you can make the dovetails if you decide to use dovetails.

You could also use mortise and tenon to attach the legs.

The flutes in the curved surface would be a little more difficult. Thanks for slapping up the side of my head and wakening me up. I'd probably do it on the lathe using the indexing holes and maybe my Dremel tool with the flexible extension using the same jig as a guide and hand rest. I'd probably make a template to check the depth of the flutes.

[Jamie Buxton]

Do you have a lathe big enough to turn that diameter? Is it equipped with indexing holes? If so...

Turn the shape. Use the indexing holes to hold the turned blank while you run a router up and down to mill the flutes. The router runs on what's essentially a table with a slot in it. The slot registers a template guide mounted to the router. The table surface is curved like the profile of the turning. The router base sits on the table. If you use the base plate as it comes from the manufacturer, it will not sit down flat on the table where the table face is concave. You might choose to do that, it just makes setting the curve of the table a little tricky. Or you may add a narrow-ish auxiliary base which gets closer to the the OEM base plate, so the router doesn't ride so far from the table in the concave section. Use a bit shaped like this: https://www.amanatool.com/56129-carbide-tipped-point-cutting-roundover-3-8-radius-x-3-4-dia-x-5-8-x-1-2-shank-router-bit.html

[Jamie Buxton]

Alright, I can't stand it... That table is a design hodge-podge. The point of a farmhouse table is that it is simple and sturdy. It is not high design. That table's top is farmhouse. However, the base has all those flutes which are from some other design esthetic. It just doesn't look right when it is next to the top. I'd use four straight legs, with aprons running between them. If you must use a pedestal base, lose the fluting.

[Gregory King]

Have to agree Jamie. The base fluting not for me either. Maybe in in a hardwood natural finish, but not that off-white. Lots of good designs for farmhouse appeal. Check the net.

[Mel Fulks]

yeah, it's awful. I'm guessing op has some wonderful memories of Holiday dinners on one similar. Any sense that the piece is a traditional farm table comes from that. I suggest looking at pics of table pedestals on Google; if the current choice beats the competition I'm sure this group can help with construction tips.

[Bill Orbine]

Maybe worth looking into:. https://www.osbornewood.com/1164.aspx

[Dave Richards]

Poor design aside, you could use a router with a long-shanked reeding (https://www.magnate.net/SearchResults.asp?Cat=231043) bit to cut those reeds. You'd be cutting along the side not on the top. A template to follow on Ken's box and an indexing head on the lathe and you're all set.

As for the bottom of the pedestal, it looks octagonal to me.

[Jim Becker]

Think of it as an extra large base like you might do on a typical candle stand type table. Basic turning is done on a lathe and then a router jig is used while the unit is still mounted to the lathe to do the fluting at the top and put dovetailed ways or mortises for the legs. Take a look at how I did this on a smaller scale (the candle stand) so you can envision what you might do for the larger piece:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?32449-Project-Shaker-Style-Candle-Stand-(Updated)&p=391828#post391828

Having the column between centers makes it a lot easier to do the radial work with a router suspended above the workpiece...you just have to calculate the position of the flutes and for the legs and lock it in place for each pass of the router, etc.

I did make a larger table base a number of years ago out of mahogany to support a 58" diameter Teak table top Professor Dr. SWMBO's dad brought back from Vietnam, but it was a simpler design base.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v646/a-j-adopt/Woodworking/Furniture/TeakTable/teaktable-placed-400_zpsfmf1olgi.jpg

The 11" diameter column was turned on a jury-rigged lathe setup (bigger than the capacity of the lathe) and would certainly be easier today with the bigger machine I happen to own now. That original "MacGyver" wood tool rest setup was truly scary, but it got the job done!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v646/a-j-adopt/Woodworking/Furniture/TeakTable/teaktable-temp-rest_zpsmph8bubb.jpg

[Bob Vavricka]

Check out the Flute Master. It was developed by a member of the woodturning club I belong to. Central Oklahoma Woodturners and will follow the contour of a turned piece. It may do what you want. http://www.flutemasters.com/

[Bruce Wrenn]

Alright, I can't stand it... That table is a design hodge-podge. The point of a farmhouse table is that it is simple and sturdy. It is not high design. That table's top is farmhouse. However, the base has all those flutes which are from some other design esthetic. It just doesn't look right when it is next to the top. I'd use four straight legs, with aprons running between them. If you must use a pedestal base, lose the fluting.At least it doesn't have ball and claw feet.

[lowell holmes]

I would consider making a six or eight sided pedestal. It would be easier to make and give a similar effect.

Google "pedestal table".