Any experience or knowledge in building a wheelchair ramp

[John Ziebron]

I just found out that the husband of a friend and former coworker is wheelchair bound now and they are looking for help in making a ramp to the house for him. I will of course be volunteering my time and skills to help I know very little about these ramps.

Common sense would dictate a slight angle along with rails on each side and probably a level landing area at the top. I don't know any details right now except that the final height is about 30 inches. He is a big man; probably in the 250-300 pound range. I'm thinking there may be codes for the design and construction of these type ramps but am not sure. Perhaps someone with experience can point me in the right direction.

[Von Bickley]

30 inches high = 30 feet of ramp......

[John K Jordan]

I just found out that the husband of a friend and former coworker is wheelchair bound now and they are looking for help in making a ramp to the house for him. I will of course be volunteering my time and skills to help I know very little about these ramps.

Common sense would dictate a slight angle along with rails on each side and probably a level landing area at the top. I don't know any details right now except that the final height is about 30 inches. He is a big man; probably in the 250-300 pound range. I'm thinking there may be codes for the design and construction of these type ramps but am not sure. Perhaps someone with experience can point me in the right direction.

If you want it ADA compliant the guidelines are published. Besides the slope there are other considerations, such as the minimum size of landings. Your local building code may require something additional but I doubt it. My son the architect said most residential ramps are not made to spec. I put one in at my house so a friend could visit. Mine is NOT ADA compliant (a little too steep) but it still worked fine with his electric wheelchair, with our own push wheelchair after my wife's foot surgery, and for daily entry to that door.

ADA GUIDELINES: http://www.adawheelchairramps.com/wheelchair-ramps/ada-guidelines.aspx

I fastened non-skid mats to the surface in case of frost or rain. Some use abrasive strips or special paint with grit.

JKJ

[Karl Andersson]

I built one for my neighbor after he became wheelchair-bound. I didn't find many plans online, but after discussing it with the county building inspector's office I designed it to meet codes for a deck (our county uses the International Building Code and publishes the span tables and railing requirements online but I also bought the code book). I then looked at the ADA website and Life Safety Code (NFPA 101) to make sure I was at least close to the recommended access width and provided enough space on the landing for the door to be opened when the chair was there. You don't have to buy the codes - if you Google things like "Required accessway width" you will find many municipalities that have cut and pasted the codes into their own requirements which they post online.

For me, the most challenging part was designing the end of the ramp, where it faded into nothing at ground level on the current sidewalk. It doesn't seem like much, but getting the deck to taper down to a maximum 3/8 in thickness (so his elderly wife could help push the chair over the "bump") required a bit of thought. I ended up making very tapered stringers under a "threshold" made from 1" thick PT plywood, beveling the edge with a drawknife- the rest of the deck is standard deck boards. The plywood has held up well for 5 years. You may not have as many problems if this will be built as a "permanent" ramp since you could make bigger changes (like making a concrete ramp foot) - the one I made was only supposed to be temporary, but the old guy has surprised everyone by actually improving. All thresholds need to be evaluated- some can be pretty abrupt and make life a pain for a wheelchair-bound person or their helper. I had to make shallow-angle "inserts" for their front door threshold as well so that the transitions were smoother - these were solid wood, drawknifed and planed to shape.
good luck,
Karl

[George Bokros]

I found that the local building code required me to have a building permit to install one and it had to meet the citycode requirements which mimicked the ADA guidelines.

[Ole Anderson]

Remember the 1:12 maximum slope requires measuring the total rise from where the ramp ends to the first floor of the structure. So if your grade drops off from the house, the ramp can become very long if you ramp straight away from the building. That is why many ramps run parallel to the building, or fold back on themselves. A contractor's level, a laser level, or a string level can help you out here.

[Bruce Wrenn]

1/12 slope, meaning 1 foot of elevation change in twelve feet or run. Because it's thirty feet, you will have to have one flat spot in run of ramp. I STRONGLY suggest using deck screws for assembly. If building dept requires the 4" rule for pickets, remember that means a 4" sphere CAN'T pass between pickets. Space your pickets 3 7/8' between them. Build a spacer, with a handle on it. Plumb first picket, and every fourth one after that. Pour a concrete footing where joists meet grade, as today's "supposedly treated lumber" will ROT when in contact with ground! The North Carolina Baptist Men has a program called Ramp Builders. Google it and see how they design ramps. Merry Christmas!

[Charlie Velasquez]

...
For me, the most challenging part was designing the end of the ramp, where it faded into nothing at ground level on the current sidewalk. It doesn't seem like much, but getting the deck to taper down to a maximum 3/8 in thickness (so his elderly wife could help push the chair over the "bump") required a bit of thought. Karl
I have not designed one, but rather had to help someone up one.
I live in Iowa. A ramp on a local building is supported with 4x4s set in the ground then terminates on a sidewalk. In the winter the sidewalk heaved and broke the "feathered" edge and left a significant bump of broken wood that we needed to overcome to access the ramp.
The OPer lives in Michigan so the same situation may need to be addressed.

[Jerome Stanek]

You can get by with a ramp that climbs up then a 5x5 landing and then going back the other way so as to not have one 35 foot ramp 2 15 footers and the 5x5 landing. we did a lot for temp drug stores that way so as not to be out in the parking lot

[John Ziebron]

Thank you all for your inputs; I'm learning a lot. I'm a little surprised that the ADA guidelines don't go into a little more detail, like for side rails and handrails. So far I've watched quite a few uTube videos and looked at a lot of ramp images on line so I'm getting a good idea for a design.

Because our ground is somewhat frozen right now and would make digging post holes below the frost line more difficult I was wondering if those concrete deck blocks could be used instead. But I haven't been able to find out yet if that is allowed. Does anyone know?

[Jerome Stanek]

They do have hand rail regs

[Jim Becker]

Because our ground is somewhat frozen right now and would make digging post holes below the frost line more difficult I was wondering if those concrete deck blocks could be used instead. But I haven't been able to find out yet if that is allowed. Does anyone know?

The official answer would have to come from your local jurisdiction. That said, the concrete deck blocks you mention might be find for a temporary accommodation, but I wouldn't want that for long term use because of how the ground moves seasonally from freeze/thaw and moisture.

[Tom Stenzel]

I have a ramp but was in chemo when it was built so I didn't even get to watch.

Your locality will have its own rules. Here in Livonia-definitely Southeast Michigan- the city didn't require a permit to build. But they specifically didn't want the wooden posts cemented into the ground. Just dig below the frost line, set the post in and backfill. It's probably because of the temporary nature of the things. Of course I expect to fool them and stick around long enough for the ramp to have a problem.

My ramp isn't quite ADA compliant either as the slope is about 1.1" rise per foot of travel. We did it that way to save a tree on the front lawn that we otherwise would have lost. I can get up and down the ramp in my hand powered chair without any problem until it snows. Then it's a problem. Then again so is level ground in the snow.

-Tom

[Jerome Stanek]

In some place that freeze they don't want the post concreted in as it makes it easier for the frost to heave them. with no concrete the posts are smoother

[John Ziebron]

Jim, It would be best to bury the support posts into the ground. Just not sure how hard it would be to dig those holes by hand this time of year. I agree that the blocks should be a temporary solution.

Tom, I live in northern Lapeer County and my friend is in Shelby Township, so I'll have to wait until after Christmas to check with the building people there. I didn't think about a concreted post being able to heave up easier but it makes sense when you think about it. I can understand your situation with your wheelchair and snow, or ice. I know there are non slip strips or paint that can be used on your ramp, but this is the wrong time of year for application. Not sure if you have checked into this but there are companies that make studded tires for wheelchairs. I hope you're around long enough to wear out your ramp.:)

Thank you all for your inputs. Have a Merry Christmas.

[Myk Rian]

Because our ground is somewhat frozen right now and would make digging post holes below the frost line more difficult I was wondering if those concrete deck blocks could be used instead. But I haven't been able to find out yet if that is allowed. Does anyone know?
The ground can't be frozen too deep yet. Only frozen 2-3" here. A post hole digger goes right through it. Rent a power auger.

[Ed Aumiller]

Had to build a ramp for my neighbor last week... Did not make it 1::12, more like 1.25::12, but still usable...

Used 3/4" pressure treated plywood for floor and made railing like for a deck with standard deck pickets, etc..

To eliminate slipping / skidding on floor I used "rolled roofing" from Lowes... it is slightly over 39" wide and works great on a 4' wide ramp..
this is a link to it, except I used the black version and glued it to plywood with glue from Lowes for indoor/outdoor carpet..
It is basically a 33 ft long shingle and when glued to plywood will last a long time...

https://www.lowes.com/pd/GAF-Mineral-Guard-3-28-ft-W-x-32-58-ft-L-100-sq-ft-White-Roll-Roofing/50342340

If possible, put a roof over it to keep snow & ice on it to a minimum... or have someone put a tarp on it when expecting bad weather..

Also recommend putting a handrail on both sides of the ramp about 32 inches high..

[Thomas Canfield]

350118 I have built several ramps recently as part of Texas Ramp Project. Not going into a lot of details since local will dictate other changes for weather and permits, let me address the "landing" or starter section. Our design uses a 3/4" - 4x8' pressure treated plywood that has 94"L (one end cut 45 degree at landing) 2x6 running on top with 6" up that rests on a 2x4 or 2x6 on previous module 8" above grade or landing elevation. There are 2 pieces of 64"L -2x4 at 32" centers running crosswise underneath that serve to brace the section and provide area to mount handrail posts. The starting edge of plywood is reinforced with a section of metal shelving leg (3/4" inside width channel) and then a bent section of 10 gauge metal is installed over that to give sharp metal contact at grade. The ramp shown does not have coating applied yet since still wet wood needing to dry a month or so. Deck coating is a primer and then sandmix deck paint that we get from Lowes.

[John K Jordan]

I have built several ramps recently as part of Texas Ramp Project...

Thomas, are there drawings or sketches available for your design? I'm planning a new deck behind my own house and I want to incorporate a gentle ramp just because. We occasionally have visitors with wheelchairs ane of us may need it some day. It would be a lot easier for me to build it while I don't need it!

JKJ

[Thomas Canfield]

John- There are not any published drawings on design. I have made some hand sketches that I use to help coworkers and also help me to make a material list. I will start a separate thread soon on ramps giving some of the basics that we use, but again, the location and any codes will need to be considered.

[John K Jordan]

John- There are not any published drawings on design. I have made some hand sketches that I use to help coworkers and also help me to make a material list. I will start a separate thread soon on ramps giving some of the basics that we use, but again, the location and any codes will need to be considered.

Thanks! Design based on experience is much easier.

JKJ

[Harry Hagan]

Jim, It would be best to bury the support posts into the ground. Just not sure how hard it would be to dig those holes by hand this time of year. I agree that the blocks should be a temporary solution.

Tom, I live in northern Lapeer County and my friend is in Shelby Township, so I'll have to wait until after Christmas to check with the building people there. I didn't think about a concreted post being able to heave up easier but it makes sense when you think about it. I can understand your situation with your wheelchair and snow, or ice. I know there are non slip strips or paint that can be used on your ramp, but this is the wrong time of year for application. Not sure if you have checked into this but there are companies that make studded tires for wheelchairs. I hope you're around long enough to wear out your ramp.:)

Thank you all for your inputs. Have a Merry Christmas.

Rent a gas-powered post hole digger. They'll power through concrete slabs without flinching.