where to source silver brazing stock...

[Mike Kees]

Hi i have a question for people who braze their own bandsaw blades . Where do you buy silver brazing rod ? I need a source,went to two local welding supply stores and they do not have it. From what I have read I am looking for 50% or higher silver content and a melting temperature of somewhere in the 1200-1500 range. Also what do you use for flux ? Thanks for any help,Mike.

[Andrew J. Coholic]

Hi i have a question for people who braze their own bandsaw blades . Where do you buy silver brazing rod ? I need a source,went to two local welding supply stores and they do not have it. From what I have read I am looking for 50% or higher silver content and a melting temperature of somewhere in the 1200-1500 range. Also what do you use for flux ? Thanks for any help,Mike.

I've bought it before from two saw sharpening/manufacturers. Just asked to buy several feet of the silver brazing wire they use to attach carbide teeth onto the blade bodies. As for flux, you can buy that at any decent industrial supplier that sells welding supplies.

[John C Bush]

Plumbers use silver solder for medical gas plumbing. Not sure of the properties in regard to flex and bond to ferrous metals.

[Doug McKay]

You may try looking for Esab All-state brand silver brazing coils and rods. Look up All-State 100 silver solder.

[Mike Kees]

Thank you for the replies. I will keep on looking. Mike.

[Andrew J. Coholic]

Thank you for the replies. I will keep on looking. Mike.

Last I bought it ( earlier this year) was a Kg of flux coated 1/16" rods from a local fabrication guy who does stainless food related piping. This is a low cadmium silver rod. Much safer to use since you're not inhaling cadmium fumes while brazing. I'm undecided if I prefer the separate flux and rod or this new stuff with the flux on it.

[Andrew J. Coholic]

Mike
if you want to try some I can send you a few rods to try. They're about 12" long I can just throw them in the mail. I paid $100 C for a Kg of wire. It will last me years.

[Mike Kees]

Andrew I would appreciate that. Will PM my address to you ,thanks. Mike.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Woodcraft sells a soldering kit for band saw blades that uses little sheets of solder. Bevel and flux blade, then place sheet between bevels ends. Clamp and solder.

[Andrew J. Coholic]

Hey Mike, did that package I sent you show up? I pm'd you but no reply... just want to know if it made it and if you happened to try it out.

[Mike Kees]

Andrew ,yes they made it. Thank you. My wife finally picked up the mail yesterday. So tried it out last night. I have never done this so my first attempt did not turn out. Do you use a propane torch ? I heated until it was red-orange and tried. The flux flowed but silver only made half of the joint. Probably my rush to see instead of proper joint preparation. What is the technique that you have used with these rods ? Thanks again for your help.

[Andrew J. Coholic]

Mike, I usually use my prestolite acetylene torch, or an oxy/acetylene with a fine tip. MAP/Oxygen or straight MAP is fine too for smaller jobs.

You need to get the parts to be brazed pretty much at least a dull cherry red, or even orange. Let the flux flow and then the silver will flow just like a good solder joint. It is also best to clean the metal with some emery paper first as well.

If you dont get the parts hot and keep them hot until the brazing is done, you can get a poor joint, or the silver might not flow at all.

I find a straight propane torch only adequate for the very small jobs. For a bandsaw blade you might need two of them working together. If you can find yourself a used prestolite acetylene torch (plumbers use them) which has a hand held wand, connected to the acetylene bottle with a rubber hose, they work really well. I have two, one my dad bought years ago and one I picked up used.

[Duane Sawyer]

I use 45 percent silver solder all the time for steel to copper or steel to brass. If any part of your joint is steel you must be very careful with the heat, if the metal turns cherry the flux is destroyed and the silver solder will not flow. Just start over and reflux the joint if you don't your joint will be a mess,

[Andrew J. Coholic]

I use 45 percent silver solder all the time for steel to copper or steel to brass. If any part of your joint is steel you must be very careful with the heat, if the metal turns cherry the flux is destroyed and the silver solder will not flow. Just start over and reflux the joint if you don't your joint will be a mess,

Ive been silver brazing for many years. On many many things - but 90% of the time steel to steel.

Ive always brought my steel up to a cherry red or even a dull orange. Never have had any issues with poor joints, but I have with not getting the metal hot enough. If its not glowing at the bare minimum a dull red, its too cold IMO and the joint wont work.

Ive watched pros silver braze and they get the steel glowing orange. Im no welder, but I certainly know what has worked for me over the years.

I recommend some experimenting, and just try what works for you. Its not that hard, heat - flux - apply rod and it will either flow or it wont. Its no harder than soldering with tin/lead solder, just requires higher heat.

[Andy Booth]

McMaster Carr 76955A72 work?