Ideal height for drill press table

[mark mcfarlane]

I recently acquired a Grizzly G7943 bench-top drill press and need to build or buy a cabinet for it. I've been looking at some rolling tool chests (ala Craftsman, Husky,...) that would quickly add a bunch of much needed thin drawers in the shop. These chests are typically kitchen counter height which would put belt changes over my 5'-10" head...

I'm guessing the normal working table height is the most important factor for use, and I could use a step stool to change belts.


How tall are you?
What height do you typically have your drill press table? (floor or bench mount press)
Wish it was higher or lower?


Also, anyone actually install the clear 'shield' around the chuck. This seems like it would be a nuisance and a bit of overkill for a drill press. I'm not sure what kind of accident they are trying to avoid.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/12-Speed-Heavy-Duty-Bench-Top-Drill-Press/G7943?utm_campaign=zPage&utm_source=grizzly.com

[Lee Schierer]

I'm 5'-11" tall. My bench top drill press sits on a work bench that is 35" tall and at the moment the table is 45" above the floor. However, table height is dependent upon the item being drilled. I try to limit the stroke of the quill when drilling, keeping the drill bit pretty close to the surface of what ever is being worked on. I have a stepped pulley to change speeds that I can reach without a step stool.

[Thomas Canfield]

Lee gave good advice about checking on changing belts. The table height changes with use, but the top height is set by the stand and drill itself. Changing belts should not be a big deal that requires working off a step or ladder.

[Nick Decker]

Yeah, my belts are above my head too, but I've found that changing them is not something I do often enough to worry about, and it only takes a few seconds.

[Bob Grier]

Lee, in 2004 post you reported your bench drill press was mounted on a 30" tall work table. Can you tell there is significant difference between the two heights? I have been thinking about this for a couple years and just bought casters for the future bench drill press cabinet. I was thinking of making it shorter so the drill press table can be same height of my work bench. My work bench is 37".

[Lee Schierer]

My work bench height hasn't changed, so I must have mis-typed the height back in 2004. If I were to raise it 2-3" I could still reach the belts as my old Homecraft drill press is only about 35" tall.

[Tom Ewell]

Most floor standing DP's I've run across are six foot high, toe to head.

I suspect that any height close to that would be OK for most folks.

My inlaw's shop has one approaching over 7' (guessing) that is OK. Speed changes can be had with step stool.
(I'm 6'2")

I tend to store stuff on top of my cabinets and on shelves above my doors and windows in the shop so step stool is just part of the kit.

[Joe Kieve]

Mark...if you have the floor space, get a floor model drill press instead of a bench-top model. It's much more versatile and doesn't limit you. I looked at the Grizzly link you posted and for only a little more you can get a floor model with essentially the same specs. If you add the cost of a rolling tool chest, it would really be cheaper.

Just my 2 cents.

[Tim Bueler]

Mark, I have both a bench top drill press and floor model. The bench top sits on a bench I already had, 33" tall. That puts the center of the downfeed hub about 63". The floor model hub is about 8" lower. When I bought the deluxe floor model press I thought I'd never use my old pos drill press again. What I find is that I like the higher one when drilling something light. I puts the work closer to my over 50 eyes. For bulkier items, drilling concealed hinge bores for instance, I like the lower drill press. Table height varies according to drill bit length and work thickness but I very rarely change speeds and when I do I can still reach the taller press handily.
Tim

[glenn bradley]

My pulleys are about even with my forehead. My lid opens to the side just like yours. My motor tension is released by two side knobs and a lever just like yours. Neither of our DP's allows the head to be moved up and down with ease. I found the hindrance in changing belts with this setup to be laziness ;-)

Seriously, the stiffness of the type of belt was the only thing I could remotely call difficult about changing speeds with the pulleys at this height; I'm shy of 5'11" at this point of my height-reversal stage of life. My machine runs 1/2" belts where yours runs 3/8" belts so in theory your machine would be even easier to change.

I had enough link-belt scraps to make two belts for the DP and so I did. These are much easier to change as they are more pliable and don't fight you as much as single rib belts can. With your smaller belts I doubt it would be worth acquiring the link-belts.

All of this is moot if you don't bother with proper speeds for the cutter in use. I still occasionally use the DP at whatever speed it was at last as long as its close. But, I primarily use the DP when I want precision and so change the speed to match the cutter most often than not.

As to work (table) height, this will vary with your material thickness or the operation being performed. I would pay more attention to the quill's height (while not sacrificing ease of belt changes) than the table. Your satisfaction with your quill height will vary with your use of the DP. As mentioned I just use an egg-beater or a hand-drill-motor if I am just after a hole.

If I am precision drilling (relative to woodworking precision) I have my work marked, measured and clamped. This means I don't need to watch the operation specifically. Like with the tablesaw, there is no real need to see the cutter. The cutter is where it is and will not wander off. the height of the work is not super important for comfort as I am not directly 'working' the material as when hand routing or hand planing for example. Ease of changing drill bits and operating the machine are what concern me for 'production run' things like shelf pin holes, multiple parts and the like.

The best height is one that I can move material onto and off of the working surface. Remember to account for the cool DP table you are about to build as it will add a bit of height. Again, in my world, quill height trumps table height and belt change height trumps all.

P.s. Sorry for the long post; the coffee is really kickin' in.

[pat warner]

Most press heads can be moved up & down on the column.
Wouldn't be a bad idea if there was a stop collar under the head
before you slide it.
As such there shouldn't be any problems reaching the belt(s).

[Myk Rian]

I know of one guy that mounted a floor standing DP to the ceiling.

[John K Jordan]

...I've been looking at some rolling tool chests (ala Craftsman, Husky,...)

Also, anyone actually install the clear 'shield' around the chuck. This seems like it would be a nuisance and a bit of overkill for a drill press. I'm not sure what kind of accident they are trying to avoid.


I would be careful that a drill press on top of a rolling cabinet is stable. Perhaps replace the wheels with a wood base, perhaps with a wider stance if it needs to be mobile. Also, bolt the base to the cabinet.

I use two drill presses, one floor model for wood and a bench-top in my little welding/metal shop. (I don't like to drill metal and wood on the same drill press since metal working is dirty.) The bench top sits on an old kitchen cabinet base with a formica counter top (nice for cleaning up oil, etc). The counter top height is whatever standard kitchen counters are. I'm 6' and prefer the drill press table fairly high for detailed work.

I would not want a shield on my drill press unless perhaps I was using it for something other than drilling holes. I do use one on the milling machine since it likes to throw a stream of hot, greasy chips at my face. Chips are not thrown when drilling holes and wood chips are not hot.

From what I read, there are a high number of accidents related to the drill press in shops. Typically, someone holds a piece in the hand, the drill catches and spins the piece injuring the hand. This is probably more likely to be a serious injury when drilling metal. I always clamp metal and clamp wood or hold in a vise clamped to the drill press table.

JKJ

[Brad Barnhart]

I've got a small shop, and use a bench top drill press. I built a stand for it. I'm 5' 8". My dp is a ryobi press. The top comes off & goes to the right of the press to change belt placement, which I rarely do. I built a stand for the dp so that with the press sitting on top of the stand, the press table hits me about chest high, or there abouts. The top lid is above my head 1" - 2", but I have full use of the table & adjustments, & can adjust the belt w/o much trouble. I have it bolted into the stand so it is self standing. I use red clay bricks at the bottom for ballast, & have had no issues w/balance or leveling it. And my shop has a wood floor. The only thing I wish I had was a little more hp. just my .02.

Yes, it's true, there are a number of accidents at the drill press, but there again, it goes back to common sense, & understanding your machine. Over balance is very easy to do, along with improper clamping. My bride uses mine w/o any problems, & knows if she has problems to stop before she gets in over her head.

I probably use my dp for some things it shouldn't be, but I'm safe about it.

As a scrollsawyer, I get into some awkward drilling positions, & various thickness' of rough sawn lumber. At times, I require help w/drilling, but that's just a question to my bride.

[paul cottingham]

I'm a heretic, I guess. I have a beautiful old beat up delta 220 that I set to its lowest speed and leave there. I never burn wood or drill bits that way, and my family never hears me swearing at it while I try to change belt setting. This means I can set the table without worrying about how it will affect the difficulty of belt setting. (Don't ask.)

The biggest beef I have with the DP is there is no crank for the table setting. It makes moving the table up and down a pain in the rear. The table is very -uh- robust. Someday, I am going to rig a screw style car jack under it. No joking. And I'm not a small, nor weak fellow. Right now, mine is about 38" of the floor, but I wouldn't swear to that, and I'm too lazy to go downstairs and measure.

[Mike Cutler]

Mark

Nice Drill press. The 140 RPM is going to be very handy with large Forstner bits.

I am ~ 6'2". My drill press is set on a bench made from old kitchen cabinets and counter, so it's 36" to the bench top. The table is right now at 48" high and the belt is about 6' or so.

I've never wished that mine were lower.
I think that clear plastic shield is some type of "safety requirement" . Other than get in the way, I can't see it doing much else. I know that I would never install it.
I am looking to replace mine and it will be replaced with another bench top. I like having all of that counter surface around the drill press for accessibility, and a lay down area for material is an advantage. Wood working has different requirements than metal working and I think having it set on a counter meets those requirements better. At least for me it does.
If you pick the rolling cart/chest properly, you should be able to do what you want too.

[Myk Rian]

I'm a heretic, I guess. I have a beautiful old beat up delta 220
As am I. Love the old ones.


The biggest beef I have with the DP is there is no crank for the table setting. It makes moving the table up and down a pain in the rear.
That's why I installed a head counter weight spring and chain. I move the head instead.

349675

[paul cottingham]

As am I. Love the old ones.


That's why I installed a head counter weight spring and chain. I move the head instead.

349675

I must doff my cap to you sir. That is genius, and beyond my humble abilities. It does make my mind churn for other possibilities, though....

[mark mcfarlane]

Thanks everyone for sharing your setup.

Sorry for my slow response, I've been trying to finish a project before the cold weather front hit Texas in last night. Just barely made it.

[tom birdwell]

I see that I am a couple of years late on this one, but I thought that I would mention a couple of points. My wife got me a 12" drill press for Christmas. It was a great gift, but with me at 5'7", it was way too high, perched on my 34" workbench. I looked around and found the perfect alternative, a HF Chicago Electric welding cart. It is 30" tall, has four drawers, a wide stance, and is just the right size overall. I got it on one of their 30% off coupons, for just over $100. It is built rock solid. It is 27" tall without the wheels, and about 30" with them. I have not decided if I will use them or not.