Bombe Chest Build – Continued

[Mike Allen1010]

There’s a previous post that has the first part of this build. Based on suggestions from my fellow Creekers, I’m going to put all the rest of the build on this thread, rather than creating separate posts for subsequent steps.

The first post showed carving the ball and claw feet. A couple things I neglected to mention that may be helpful for those interested in adding a little carving to their furniture projects:

1. One of the biggest barrier that prevented me from getting started with carving was I didn’t really know what carving tools I needed and I assumed I would need a lot . Pic of the tools I use for 99% of the carving: gouges # 2, # 3, # 5, # 11, a couple bench chisels, half round rasps/file, card scrapers and sandpaper.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/1%202_zpsesqrhrmh.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/1%202_zpsesqrhrmh.jpg.html)



2. FWIW, my suggestion is to buy the carving tools you’ll need to do a specific project and build from there. I was surprised at what you can do with relatively limited kit. Secondly, rasps/files are your friend. For me, using a gouge to carve the upper surface of curved elements isn’t always the best choice, particularly if the grain isn’t cooperating. I’m not sure if true carvers would consider that “cheating”, but it’s been helpful for me.

3. It’s worth it to spend a little time to make a durable template for your carving projects. Initially I tried to shortcut this step by using paper drawings for layout. For me using two-dimensional paper to layout three-dimensional carving designs was problematic. The other plus is that over time you will build a set of templates you can use for future projects.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/1_zpsm3ag07g2.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/1_zpsm3ag07g2.jpg.html)


http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/2_zps6qddq4zv.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/2_zps6qddq4zv.jpg.html)

4. A key part of the layout/carving of symmetrical B&C feet are the 2 concentric circles on the bottom that represent the diameter of the ball at the midpoint and diameter at the floor. I suggest you leave final shaping of the bottom half of the ball to the correct diameter at the floor until after you finish the claws. You want all these finished surfaces to meet in a nice circle and shaping the claws may require removing more wood than you anticipate.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/4_zpsm4p6rbdz.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/4_zpsm4p6rbdz.jpg.html)


http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/5_zpsc6wkxhza.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/5_zpsc6wkxhza.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/6_zpsimeez7o1.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/6_zpsimeez7o1.jpg.html)


http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/7_zpslmptplrv.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/7_zpslmptplrv.jpg.html)
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/8_zpsjyfjdyqh.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/8_zpsjyfjdyqh.jpg.html)

[Mike Allen1010]

The sides and front of the chest curve so it seems sort of “swollen” nearest the floor. I made a template for this curve using a beam compass and a French curve. The radius of the curve at the bottom is smaller than the radius for the upper part of the curve and that required more than a little bit of experimenting to get the right template. I’m not sure if the shape of the curve I ended up with is “correct”, but it looks okay to me.


I want the finished thickness of the carcass sides to be 1 ½” to provide the necessary strength for a heavy load after the sliding dovetail sockets are cut for the horizontal shelves/rails. Based on my curve template, I need a total thickness of~3 ¾” for the rough stock at the deepest part of the curve. I’m planning to veneer the carcass sides so I’m gluing up 12/4 Poplar with 6/4 laminated on top for the widest section. The Poplar turned out to be waaaay harder and more difficult/time-consuming to shape than I expected. If I were doing this again, I would definitely try harder to find something softer.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/11_zpskedizq7b.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/11_zpskedizq7b.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/12_zpsiyfszha8.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/12_zpsiyfszha8.jpg.html)



A course pitch crosscut saw comes in really handy for dimensioning stock this thick. This is a 5 PPI, 28” D-8, originally made in a rip tooth configuration, which I converted to crosscut. I actually use this saw a lot more than I thought I would.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/13_zpsai7li5ff.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/13_zpsai7li5ff.jpg.html)



Here are the 2 pieces of a carcass side that will be glued together to get the desired width. I clamp them together to joint in hopes of getting a solid glue line.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/15_zpspgdlmj8s.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/15_zpspgdlmj8s.jpg.html)



A #6 fore plane comes in handy for leveling the surface after glue up.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/16_zpsfoyelght.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/16_zpsfoyelght.jpg.html)



Here is the lamination to get final thickness with the template to layout the curve of the carcass side.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/18_zpszjfaukzc.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/18_zpszjfaukzc.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/20_zpstvdecvlf.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/20_zpstvdecvlf.jpg.html)

I’ll make a series of cross cuts and try to split out the bulk of the waste with chisels, gouges etc. A table saw or circular saw would’ve been very handy to make these cross cuts, on the plus side, I can skip the gym.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/21_zps87kr1cdp.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/21_zps87kr1cdp.jpg.html)

[Mike Allen1010]

I tried several different tools/tactics to split out the waste for the concave curve on the inside of carcass sides, none of which worked very well. Mostly it was a lot of sweating and hammering. Did the rough work with firmer chisel and number 3 gouge, while checking periodically with a straight edge for high spots.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/22_zpsp4zqhrv2.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/22_zpsp4zqhrv2.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/23_zps8vbx2h7n.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/23_zps8vbx2h7n.jpg.html)


http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/24_zpskz0m06mf.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/24_zpskz0m06mf.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/26_zpschtygyhc.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/26_zpschtygyhc.jpg.html)

Scrub plane cross grained produced better results followed by the biggest round I have and a spoke shave.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/27_zpsxecy4egw.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/27_zpsxecy4egw.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/28_zpsio6q1nkt.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/28_zpsio6q1nkt.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/30_zpsaabsmt5w.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/30_zpsaabsmt5w.jpg.html)

[Mike Allen1010]

Equally sweaty was re-sawing the straight top and bottom profile of the carcass sides. I used a 28", 4 PPI ripsaw – not really sure how else I would do it.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/31_zpsifxgyqne.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/31_zpsifxgyqne.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/32_zpsfxtpm7nq.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/32_zpsfxtpm7nq.jpg.html)



After the straight outer surfaces of the carcass sides were sawn, it was back to more sawing and cross grained splitting out the waste with a chisel. This time I tried it vertically on the saw bench, which still took forever.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/33_zpsrtcfkpmx.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/33_zpsrtcfkpmx.jpg.html)


http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/34_zpspqf7rwf5.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/34_zpspqf7rwf5.jpg.html)



Cross grained planing to final shape is definitely easier on the convex, outer surface. A shop built big scrub and rabbit plane worked well, followed by final shaping with spoke shave and card scraper.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/35_zpsj4cyiuos.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/35_zpsj4cyiuos.jpg.html)


http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/36_zpsafih3zhq.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/36_zpsafih3zhq.jpg.html)


http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/37.5_zpsicr8kzou.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/37.5_zpsicr8kzou.jpg.html)


http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/37.6_zpseh1q6mu8.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/37.6_zpseh1q6mu8.jpg.html)

[Mike Allen1010]

Super messy work – chips went everywhere!

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/38_zpss0nuwlcf.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/38_zpss0nuwlcf.jpg.html)



With the curves shaped into the carcass sides, next step will be sawing the same curve profile onto the front edges.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/40_zpsytk3nteq.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/40_zpsytk3nteq.jpg.html)


http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/41_zpscxto9kxa.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/41_zpscxto9kxa.jpg.html)


The profile of the front of the chest is supposed to be more “serpentine”, as compared to the two-dimensional curve along the carcass sides. I haven’t even thought about laying out that curve yet, which is almost certainly a mistake. Regrettably geometry will be necessary to work out some kinda template which will surely be an adventure in itself!

Thanks for looking. More to follow as I make progress – unless my attempts at making these curved parts turns the whole thing into firewood. Wish me luck, I’m certainly going to need it!

All the best, Mike

[David Eisenhauer]

One of the most interesting build threads ever Mike. I wish I was there to hand you tools, coffee runs, sweep up, etc. What is the straight edge you show on the side-on photo of the slab on your bench? Lee Valley? Can't quite make out the logo. Outstanding work and no way will it become firewood.

[Mike Allen1010]

What is the straight edge you show on the side-on photo of the slab on your bench? Lee Valley? Can't quite make out the logo. .

Hey David,


Thanks for your comments. In the picture of the carcass side on the bench with the wooden rabbit plane, that is a 24" Lee Valley ruler.


In the earlier picture of the carcass side with a dead blow mallet and gouge, that's a Chester Rabone steel straight edge I probably had for 35 years. Given the dings and dents over the years, and more importantly my feeble attempts to fix them, I'm pretty sure it's not exactly straight anymore.


Both get plenty of use.


All the best, Mike

[Brian Holcombe]

Very much enjoying Mike!

[Robert McNaull]

Mike,

Wow! You get some things done in the shop. Appreciate you sharing like many others in here.

Best Regards,

Bob

[Phil Mueller]

Stellar work, Mike. You would make Louis XlV proud!

Thanks for sharing your gouge sizes...they appear narrow. Are they all in the 7-9mm range? Can you provide more detail?

Also appreciate you sharing the vertical saw guage you use...and of course, the saw is beautiful.

Look forward to the rest of the project.

[Kees Heiden]

That looks like a lot of work! Well done so far.

[Jim Koepke]

Very nice work. Has me wanting to head out to the shop, guess I will.

jtk

[Malcolm McLeod]

Looking good! I wondered why I seem to lack patience at times; it now seems obvious you received my share as well.;)

[Mel Fulks]

Mike, fine ambitious work! Just reviewed it all and was wondering if you had considered piercing the ball and claw feet. I've looked at them carefully and it seems to me that what you have now could be altered with no distortion ,since the claws have a bit of stand off. Google carved and pierced ball and claw feet.

[Don Jarvie]

Mike, have you considered getting some transitional planes like the Stanley 36 and shaping the bottoms to work on some of these curves?

I give you you a lot of credit for doing something like this by hand.

[Patrick Walsh]

I agree just makes you wanto turn off the TV..

[Zuye Zheng]

Love the work on the curved carcass.

[Mike Allen1010]

[QUOTE=Phil Mueller;2634939] Thanks for sharing your gouge sizes...they appear narrow. Are they all in the 7-9mm range? Can you provide more detail?


Hi Phil,


These gouges are in the 1/2"– 3/8" wide range. I tend to use the narrower gouges like these more frequently than the larger ones+1 inch wide.


Best, Mike

[Mike Allen1010]

Looking good! I wondered why I seem to lack patience at times; it now seems obvious you received my share as well.;)

Malcolm, if only that were true! My wife would tell you the probably one of the least patient people you're going to run into.


Shaping the curve into the carcass sides was fairly robust, straightforward work (lots of sawing, chiseling etc.). I find the smaller, more detail oriented jobs like inlay and carving to be a lot more tedious, which is more likely to try my patience.


All the best, Mike

[Mike Allen1010]

Mike, fine ambitious work! Just reviewed it all and was wondering if you had considered piercing the ball and claw feet. I've looked at them carefully and it seems to me that what you have now could be altered with no distortion ,since the claws have a bit of stand off. Google carved and pierced ball and claw feet.

Hi Mel, I appreciate the suggestion. I would like to try some pierced B&C feet at some point, but this chest is intended to carry a lot of weight and for that application I'm hoping these B&C feet without piercing will be a little sturdier.


Cheers, Mike

[Mike Allen1010]

Mike, have you considered getting some transitional planes like the Stanley 36 and shaping the bottoms to work on some of these curves?

Hey Don, I don't have any transitional planes, and but I like your idea of shaping the soles for planning curved surfaces. Whether it's shop built, wooden planes or transitional planes, either way having planes with curved bottoms would make this work a lot easier.


Best, Mike

[Prashun Patel]

Intimidating work, as usual, Mike. Thanks.

Now, if only you were as facile with the "Reply with Quote" feature as you are with hand tools ;)

[Mike Allen1010]

The last thing I want is to be intimidating - my apologies if that's the case! My only intent is to " pay forward" a tiny amount of the of the benefit I've personally gotten from the Creek.

Prashun, You're completely right, I'm horrible in many ways , but particularly egregious with regard to my I.T. abilities. Thanks for having my back.



Prashun, totally my bad! Thanks for having my back.

[Phil Mueller]

Thanks Mike!

[Mike Allen1010]

Bompe chest build – part 3 veneering carcass sides and top


It’s been a while since my last post on this project - here’s the latest update for those that are interested.

This is veneering the curved carcass sides described in the previous post. Again geometry rears its ugly head trying to layout smooth curves for the front of the carcass to correspond to the curves of the carcass sides. Sawing out the curves and gluing up ¼” thick solid mahogany on the curved front of the carcass sides. I need this solid stock as I want to do some beading to surround the shelf openings.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/1.3_zpsb4kqua8f.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/1.3_zpsb4kqua8f.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/1.4_zpsar6meobq.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/1.4_zpsar6meobq.jpg.html)


http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/1.5%202_zpsmbf0okmm.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/1.5%202_zpsmbf0okmm.jpg.html)

I’ve never done bent lamentations of this was kind of a brute force effort – thank goodness modern glues have strong staying power!

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/1.5_zpsc2hgivw6.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/1.5_zpsc2hgivw6.jpg.html)

Here is truing up carcass sides once the front lamination is glued.


http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/1.6%202_zpsc8x5etqh.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/1.6%202_zpsc8x5etqh.jpg.html)


http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/1.7_zpslkmpuscj.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/1.7_zpslkmpuscj.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/1.8_zpsywocegx4.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/1.8_zpsywocegx4.jpg.html)

[Mike Allen1010]

This is the veneer I’m going used to cover the carcass sides.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/1.9_zpslixua8kc.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/1.9_zpslixua8kc.jpg.html)

I got it from Brett Hesser here in San Diego who builds beautiful custom furniture that incorporates lots of veneers etc. and also stocks tons of a beautiful veneers.
Brett couldn’t have been more gracious and accommodating for a rookie like me. Not only did he help me pick out his veneer, but he also used a giant machine I didn’t even know existed, that edge glued veneers together in 30 seconds, saving me tons of work. When Brett asked if that’s what I wanted, I didn’t even understand what he was talking about (who knew there was machine you could do this?). Recognizing my ignorance, Brett took pity on me and said “trust me”. Not only did the glue up the veneer for no additional cost, he said “if you screwed up, come back and I’ll give you some more veneer to try again”. I couldn’t recommend Brett or his work more highly!

http://www.hesserhandcrafted.com/First%20Pages/home.html




Here are some shots gluing up the veneer. I don’t have much experience with veneer. I tried gluing up one face with Tite bond 3, which soaked through the veneer and yielded pretty, horrible results. The other 3 faces I use spray on 3M adhesive which yield a thinner glue layer and worked a lot better for me. I’m sure that’s not how you’re supposed to do it but if it all falls apart no one will know but me.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/2_zps4g545eya.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/2_zps4g545eya.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/3_zpsovhzgz9x.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/3_zpsovhzgz9x.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/4_zpszx1u1d2o.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/4_zpszx1u1d2o.jpg.html)


http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/5_zpsdkr6bqkv.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/5_zpsdkr6bqkv.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/7.1_zpszhizy1up.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/7.1_zpszhizy1up.jpg.html)

These are the completed carcass sides with top and ball and claw feet.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/8.2_zps4vg4susc.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/8.2_zps4vg4susc.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/8.5_zpsfnu5jyj6.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/8.5_zpsfnu5jyj6.jpg.html)


Next step was the chest top. Here’s dimensioning the size and planing the show surface.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/8.6%202_zpshtmiruxi.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/8.6%202_zpshtmiruxi.jpg.html)

[Mike Allen1010]

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/8.7_zpsvpk7eke7.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/8.7_zpsvpk7eke7.jpg.html)


http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/8.8_zpsp5rggvge.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/8.8_zpsp5rggvge.jpg.html)


http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/8.9_zpsf4amwdyf.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/8.9_zpsf4amwdyf.jpg.html)


This was my first opportunity to use my new Jack plane from Steve Voigt and it was awesome! I don’t care if I sound like a giggly fan boy. I’m just a woodworker and the fact is Steve’s plane gave me an new appreciation for the benefits of how a well-made wooden plane glides over the surface. A lot lighter and easier to use than my metal planes. There was no comparison with my own shop built wooden planes – there’s a reason why Steve is a professional toolmaker – his planes are fantastic and I’m saving up for one of his try planes.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/9.0_zps98lik9h5.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/9.0_zps98lik9h5.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/9.4_zpss08qt8hc.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/9.4_zpss08qt8hc.jpg.html)

Next up was cutting the dovetails that joined the carcass sides to the bottom of the chest.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/9.5_zps7hi3vjua.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/9.5_zps7hi3vjua.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/9.6_zpsgfvgow1o.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/9.6_zpsgfvgow1o.jpg.html)


http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/9.7_zpsjhfzdmck.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/9.7_zpsjhfzdmck.jpg.html)

[Mike Allen1010]

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/9.8_zpstroiqhc7.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/9.8_zpstroiqhc7.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/19_zpsrbiuhqjm.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/19_zpsrbiuhqjm.jpg.html)



Carcass sides are jointed to the top with sliding dovetails. Sliding DTs are one of my favorite joints. I’m happy to use power tools whenever they provide the best result, but in this case I really like using a hand plane because it lets you sneak up on the tapered fit that makes glue up for complex carcass like this a lot easier.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/20_zps5yr9mkij.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/20_zps5yr9mkij.jpg.html)



http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/21_zpsmmdpovs6.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/21_zpsmmdpovs6.jpg.html)


http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/22_zpsjsp8agey.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/22_zpsjsp8agey.jpg.html)




I used an electric router to plow the stopped dadoes for the other 2 shelves. Because the carcass sides are curved, it required a little bit of acrobatic jigging to try and get them 90° to the primary axis of the carcass sides.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/24_zps3jegdggl.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/24_zps3jegdggl.jpg.html)

I made a paper template to layout the curves for the front edge of the top. Again plenty of SWAG geometry with beam compass and what I hope our whole number ratios.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/25_zps5n52zluq.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/25_zps5n52zluq.jpg.html)


http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/26_zps5jarj8la.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/26_zps5jarj8la.jpg.html)

[Mike Allen1010]

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/27_zpswudqg9pz.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/27_zpswudqg9pz.jpg.html)




Here is scratching the bead on the inside edge of the carcass sides that I hope will match up to the corresponding beads on the horizontal shelves. As usual, I wasn’t paying attention to my layout lines and ended up creating “extra” beading where I didn’t want it. I’m hoping some creating creative filling/finishing can cover my mistakes.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/28_zpspghae0ge.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/28_zpspghae0ge.jpg.html)



The veneer on the carcass sides overlaps the solid edging on the front of the carcass sides. As you can see, the joint turned out pretty crummy. Like I said, I’m not so good with veneer.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/29_zpsazsmn2kg.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/29_zpsazsmn2kg.jpg.html)

As a consequence, I tried to cover things up with Holly inlay, which isn’t consistent with period design- sigh, I’m hoping I can make some accommodation elsewhere that’lll tie things together, but that’s probably a pipe dream.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/30.1_zpsyofxozgr.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/30.1_zpsyofxozgr.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/30_zpshl9kaega.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/30_zpshl9kaega.jpg.html)


http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/31_zpssvmviqhu.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/31_zpssvmviqhu.jpg.html)


http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/32_zps5x5l4rms.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/32_zps5x5l4rms.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/33_zpsc2ikfdby.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/33_zpsc2ikfdby.jpg.html)


Here is the glue up of the carcass; – 1 ¼ “thick through DT for the bottom and sliding DT’s for the top made for a typically frantic glue up. I think I got the carcass reasonably square.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/34_zpsmfhwmbsx.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/34_zpsmfhwmbsx.jpg.html)

[Mike Allen1010]

In an effort to tie the Holly beading on the carcass sides to the overall design, I’m going to try and inlaid some Holly design elements on the carcass top. Since I’m using this chest to hold some hi-fi audio equipment, I thought musical symbols might be appropriate.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/35_zpsrs40qenz.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/35_zpsrs40qenz.jpg.html)


http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/36_zpszqcidgu5.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/36_zpszqcidgu5.jpg.html)


http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/37%202_zpsw9bmbhqr.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/37%202_zpsw9bmbhqr.jpg.html)


I’ve screwed up plenty of projects with crappy inlay. I’m no expert, but the only advice I can offer is thicker, shop sawn veneer (I shoot for 1/8” inch thick) works best for me. Delicate, cross grain shapes hold together better and I’m less likely to plane through the inlay during final surfacing (Please don’t ask how I know that – the memory still makes me cringe! ).

Once the inlay shapes are sawn out on the birds mouth, I use some hide glue to stick them to the surface temporarily so I outline their shapes with an X-Acto knife. Patience is definitely a virtue here – nothing worse than rushing things and trying to outline the inlay recesses before the glue is dry and everything shifts in the process – ugh!

Lastly here is the glued up stock for the horizontal shelves. I decided to wait till the carcass is glued up before trying to layout the curves on the front edges the shelves so I can hopefully get them to fit with the progressive curve I’m hoping to achieve along the front edge of the carcass.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/music%20-4/DSC_0028%202_zpsgbmtnyeh.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/music%20-4/DSC_0028%202_zpsgbmtnyeh.jpg.html)


Thanks for looking. I’ll post updates to this thread as the project progresses.

All the best, Mike

[Stewie Simpson]

Fantastic work your doing Mike. A great deal of traditional techniques and skills being employed. Excellent to see.

regards Stewie;

[David Eisenhauer]

Lots of very good stuff here Mike. Questions concerning the inlay glue down before I forget - exactly how did you temporarily (hide) glue the inlays down (rub joint or clamped?) and exactly how did you remove them after scribing their outlines? Does the removal of the inlay after scribing affect the veneer at all? Light scraping? Light sanding? to clean up?

[Patrick McCarthy]

Mike, LOVE it all. Wished I lived closer; I would be a permanent occupant of your shop!
surprised you didn't use hide glue for the veneer - or old brown glue from Patrick Edwards down near you -
Agree completely about Steve's planes, as I just got a smoother from him before Xmas, but my projects are way less ambitious than yours. My dreams are big, but like the bumper sticker reminds me, sometimes reality (my limited talents) suck.
Again, GREAT work and really appreciate you sharing the process with us.
Warmest regards, patrick

[Will Boulware]

Awesome! Thanks for the update!

[Mike Allen1010]

Lots of very good stuff here Mike. Questions concerning the inlay glue down before I forget - exactly how did you temporarily (hide) glue the inlays down (rub joint or clamped?) and exactly how did you remove them after scribing their outlines? Does the removal of the inlay after scribing affect the veneer at all? Light scraping? Light sanding? to clean up?

Hey David,
To temporarily glue the inlay to the substrate for scribing, I put toothpick dabs of hide glue and just push it down, no clamps. After a drying time about an hour, that usually sufficient to hold them in place. I use a sharpened putty knife to pry them off. It can be a bit delicate, which is one of the reasons I like the thicker shop sawn vener for inlay, less likely to crack.

I use a Dremel in a router base with 1/16" diameter bit – I think these are available from Lee Valley, for excavating the recesses for the inly pieces.

I glued the inlaying into the recesses with as much clamping pressure as I can get, also a couple judicious tabs with a hammer can help spread the inlay material into tight corners.

I'll post some pictures of leveling Inlay flush with the surface. My favorite part – the "reveal" when you get to see how it all turned out, kind of like finish planig dovetails.

[David Eisenhauer]

Mucho thanks for the info Mike. I had an issue once with temporarily holding something down to scribe it's outline then having it move at the wrong time. I may try your hide glue trick. I never would have thought of "toothpick dabs" and hats off to you for clueing me in.

[Mike Allen1010]

[QUOTE=Patrick McCarthy;2651120]Mike, LOVE it all. Wished I lived closer; I would be a permanent occupant of your shop!
surprised you didn't use hide glue for the veneer - or old brown glue from Patrick Edwards down near you -QUOTE]

Great to hear from you Patrick!

Good suggestion about using hide glue for vener. I've never tried it and would
Love to hear from anyone about how to do it. Do you need to have a vener hammer to squeeze everything flat? Are U supposed to put glue on the show surface too- seems like I've seen that somewhere?

Wil the hammer be enough to adhere the vener to a curved surface, or do U need to clamp as well?

Any advice is much appreciated!
Thanks, Mike