Advice on attaching base to nightstand

[Shawn Christ]

I'm working on a pair of nightstands and want to apply a 5.5" solid baseboard around the front and sides. I am struggling with how to attach these to 1) account for wood movement, and 2) to get a strong attachment to the case so they don't fall off the next time I move them. My thought is to glue to the case only where the grain runs the same direction (rails only), and also run a centered screw through an elongated hole in the cabinet stile into the back of the baseboard near each corner. I think those screw holes are visible in the first picture. Thoughts or suggestions on a better approach?

[Bill Adamsen]

The screw in the stile is a quick and easy way to accomplish the task. It also accounts for wood movement. I suppose technically one would only screw the bottom of the base to accommodate the radial expansion of the base without pushing on the floor. Screwing at the bottom allows the base to expand and contract vertically.

[Shawn Christ]

The screw in the stile is a quick and easy way to accomplish the task. It also accounts for wood movement. I suppose technically one would only screw the bottom of the base to accommodate the radial expansion of the base without pushing on the floor. Screwing at the bottom allows the base to expand and contract vertically.

Makes sense. So no glue on the rails, to allow for upward expansion?

[Bill Adamsen]

The radial/tangential movement on that 4" of hardwood (let's call it cherry) - might be 6%+/- and would amount to perhaps 1/4" seasonally if in a non air-conditioned environment. I would think you would want it tight at the floor and accommodate the expansion/contraction at the top where the base lies on the panel rail or the shelf support. Ideally, the base to base joinery would be dovetails (I'm sure you don't want to hear that now) but a glued up joint should hold especially if reinforced with a domino, spline or even mechanical connector.

[Robert Engel]

I seriously doubt you could get 1/4" unless the wood is practically dripping wet. The figure I usually see given is 1/8" per foot (depending on species/grain pattern) so once the wood is acclimated I would say maybe 1/32, 1/16 at the most.

I recommend storing the baseboard in the room its going in for a week or so before installing. Once you move it out the shop keep them in plastic bags.

You could use some small angle brackets screwed to bottom or rail and back of baseboard. You can wobble out the hole to allow for expansion.

[Dave Stuve]

I was just reading Bill Hylton's chest of drawers book, and several bases are attached by gluing a cleat to the long grain of the base, and then screwing up into some part of the case (maybe those rails along the side?) Elongating the screw hole would keep it plenty strong and still account for a lot of movement. That's an interesting problem - I'm still trying to wrap my head around the best way to attach bases.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

I have a different question regarding your baseboard. Is the baseboard going to rest on the floor all around? If that is the case, then any small out-of-level of the floor is going to cause it to not rest flat. You may want to arch the bottom of it so that only the corners touch the floor.

[Shawn Christ]

I have a different question regarding your baseboard. Is the baseboard going to rest on the floor all around? If that is the case, then any small out-of-level of the floor is going to cause it to not rest flat. You may want to arch the bottom of it so that only the corners touch the floor.

Good point. I want an enclosed base so yes, it will rest on the floor on all 4 sides, but it will be on carpeting and should never wobble. If the flooring changes and this becomes an issue, I will attach floor pads at the corners.