Do you practise hand planing?

[lowell holmes]

Do you practise hand planing? Stick a short length of 2X4 in the vise and hand plane it straight and square?

If not do it and report back here with your results. I do it from time to time, and invariably, I have to work at it
to make it happen. It seems like I have to learn all over again to plane straight and true.

Just wondering? I bet I'm not the only one.:)

[Bill White]

Practice? PRACTICE????? Every darned piece of wood I've ever planed was practice. Never found two pieces that would plane required a different touch. Imagine that! :)
Bill

[Dan Hulbert]

To paraphrase Yoda: There is no practice, there is only do.

[steven c newman]

Every time I refresh a handplane...
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Scrap 2x4 is outside, buried in the snow right now...

[Daniel Rode]

Early on, I would practice but once I got the hang of it, I stopped practicing and focused on getting stuff done. I sold my power jointer a while back, so every edge is hand jointed and every board is hand flattened. You get better when it's the only option :)

I recently made some simple raised panels and I wish I would have practiced a bit first. I can clearly see which were first and last.

[Chris Hachet]

Early on, I would practice but once I got the hang of it, I stopped practicing and focused on getting stuff done. I sold my power jointer a while back, so every edge is hand jointed and every board is hand flattened. You get better when it's the only option :)

I recently made some simple raised panels and I wish I would have practiced a bit first. I can clearly see which were first and last.o

Pretty much how I do it, I do not own a powered joiner or planer so UI am pretty much the go to in my shop....!

[Pat Barry]

I just want to hear if Warren still practices.

[Jim Koepke]

Every time one of my plane blades is sharpened it gets a bit of a workout when it is reset in the plane. Mostly this is to get the lateral adjuster set. Sometimes the shaving is measured just for the heck of it.

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To get the edge of a piece being worked square, it is good to be able to determine the thickness of shavings and the amount the piece is out of square by eye. From this it can be determined how many partial shavings are needed to get an out of square piece in to square. Then lift the plane off the low side of the work by a slight amount. If the plane is taking 0.002" shavings and the work piece looks to be out about 0.010", lift the plane enough to take a shaving about 1/5 the width of the work. Take the next shaving using this strip as the true surface. For me it is easier to do this with my front hand thumb pressing on the plane right in front of the mouth. After about 5 shavings your cut should be full width of the work. Check and repeat as needed.

It is possible to train or calibrate your eye. Here is a training exercise written during my time working in a repair shop. Instead of spacers one could do this with different wood shavings or a set of feeler gauges.


A Training Exercise
The Calibrated Eye
The purpose of this exercise is to train your eye to recognize small sizes for what they are.
To do this exercise one needs a lot of mixed spacing washers. The sizes found on our equipment
are .001, .005, .010, .016, .030 and .040 with occasionally some other odd sizes.
A dial or digital caliper is also needed. Small containers or pieces of paper to separate the
washers into different piles are also needed.
With all the washers mixed in a pile, start measuring with the caliper. Look at the edge of each
one during the measuring process. Separate the washers into piles of washers that measure the
same. After a short time, look at the washer before measuring it and see if you know what it
will measure before it is put in to the caliper. Keep doing this until you get good.
Congratulations you now have calibrated your eyes. Recalibration may be needed if not used
on a regular basis.

My other training piece was on screw threads and how they can be used somewhat like a caliper as a means of measurement.

jtk

[Stewie Simpson]

To paraphrase Yoda: There is no practice, there is only do.

+1 with Dan.

[Rob Luter]

Yoga is a hand puppet. I practice. I need the practice. When I get it perfect every time, I'll stop practicing.

[Patrick Chase]

Do you practise hand planing? Stick a short length of 2X4 in the vise and hand plane it straight and square?

If not do it and report back here with your results. I do it from time to time, and invariably, I have to work at it
to make it happen. It seems like I have to learn all over again to plane straight and true.

Just wondering? I bet I'm not the only one.:)

I do that all the time. I find it relaxing and helpful to keep my skills (inasmuch as I have any) up.

[steven c newman]

Every time I sharpen or tune up a plane...
Part 2...chipbreaker issues, test runs after the tune up..
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Side one.
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Side 2. Checked with a square. One side was a bit too rough, so the BIG guys had to step in..
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I used the #5-1/2 instead of the #6c....

[steven c newman]

Ok...a N0-7 by Ohio Tool Co.
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Followed up by the Stanley No.6c
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Followed by the Stanley Jumbo jack
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Followed by a Stanley No. 5 ( no camber)
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Followed by a Stanley No. 4..
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And a #3 sized plane..
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Sold as a Craftsman, made by Millers Falls.

Just making sure they all work...may need a bigger piece of pine?

[Chris Fournier]

I will use mule stock to test a planes set after sharpening but no I don't practice. I do start with the underside not the show face in every case and this helps me understand the wood I am working. That's all the warm up I need, or anybody for that matter. I will warm up on some practice dovetails thought as I don't cut them every day. Do what works for you to get results.

[James Pallas]

Everything I do is practice. I haven't had one thing come out perfect so far:)
Jim

[Daniel Rode]

I make lots of mistakes; more than most. I don't get things perfect. My time for woodworking is limited and my goal is to create something. I have no goal to become a hand tool woodworker. It's a means to an end. I choose to use hand tools because they are quiet and effective but what matters to me is the thing I'm making and the things I learn in the process. My practice is in the doing.

Don't get me wrong. I sometimes practice briefly to "warm up" if I haven't done something in a while and I practice to learn new techniques. But once I know enough to get rolling, I focus on doing it.

[steven c newman]

Last two missed a point I made. I test drive each plane after it goes in for "upkeep" after a project is done, and before the next starts up. About like fixing up the Family car, and taking down it the road for a bit, to see how the fix did. Planes I haven't used for a project or two, will get a test drive to see how they are set up. IF they need a little tweaking, the test drive will show what needs to be done. then I can fix what needs to be done to have the plane ready to go.

There was a Craftsman #3 that had been used for several projects, and had a lot of wear right in the middle of the bevel. Once a new bevel was made and sharpened up, it needed a test drive to see how it worked..
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For those that say they don't have enough time in the shop to do the "upkeep" on their tools....sooner, or later, they WILL have to do a "maintenance day". I don't think that L-N nor L-V does "house-calls" to come in and tune up the toys.....

Didn't Apprentices, after a day in the Master's shop, and after supper, take their edge tools out and sharpen them up for the next day's labour's?

[steven c newman]

Well, back home from the hospital. Knee had some torn parts that needed fixed, junk cleaned out, and a small cyst cleaned up. Will be on the "DL" for a few days......Leg is all wrapped up in a big ace bandage/wrapper. Norco will be my friend for a while, as will a velcro'ed ice pack. For some reason....I am not allowed around any sharp objects......can't imagine why...

[Stanley Covington]

I have never practiced. In the beginning, some plane stokes were pretty bad, and the quality of some boards was likewise pretty bad, and the projects they went into were pretty bad too, but they were all working to the goal, and got better with repetition. The key is to pay attention, figure out the cause and effect of why things are not turning out as expected, then making corrections. After enough of that, muscle memory and eyeball memory take over.

Stan

[Prashun Patel]

I practice but it's not work for me. I happen to enjoy the challenge. I don't set out to practice, but I see a scrap with fresh saw marks and I just can't help myself.

Then again I am a hobbyist and This is my golf.

[Frederick Skelly]

I practice a bit Lowell, for the reasons you state. But like Prashun:
1. I'm only a hobbyist, so time in the shop isnt bread on my table. I dont have to hustle.
2. Sometimes I go out and joint an edge just for the fun of it. Especially if it has sawmarks.:)

I like Chris Fournier's idea and I'll try working the underside as a warmup next time.
Fred

[Andrey Kharitonkin]

There is another way advocated by The English Woodworker - Design to Learn (http://www.theenglishwoodworker.com/designing-to-learn/). I think I pretty much follow that without knowing that I do :) I wouldn't start something that requires much higher standards that I have.

Since I'm preparing stock by hand there is enough practice already. If planing is not giving right result then I just continue shaving. Once stock is prepared to acceptable degree then I'm also quite confident that I can make some project out of it! Otherwise, there is no stuff to ruin anyway :)

Besides that, I learn how to deal with failures, how to change the project or assembly to work around it. Whether I made it too think or too thick or too short or not square.

If you would take rough sawn wood instead if 2x4 then you might get also something useful out of your practice. This is useful practice, as opposite of useless practice. In this sense I practice a lot :)

[Frederick Skelly]

"Besides that, I learn how to deal with failures, how to change the project or assembly to work around it."

That is an impotant point, Andrey. I am learning to do the same.

[steven c newman]

I might start practizing again.....surgery well quite well for the left knee. They repaired a few torn items, and a good clean out. Taking things slow, since it means hopping down stairs to get TO the shop. Might have a few planes in need of a tune up, and then push them along some scrap to see how they are set up. Now, IF I can get this knee to start bending a little bit more, I might get something done.

Might start tune ups on the Millers Falls planes, next. Seem to have the Baileys about done. Turns out that Fulton was a Sargent made 408, only markings on the plane was a "FULTON" stamped into the 1-3/4" wide iron.

[David Eisenhauer]

Sounds like good news so far on the knee. Rehab, rehab, rehab will finish the work. Igor has been patiently waiting for you.

[Ryan Jones]

If you would take rough sawn wood instead if 2x4 then you might get also something useful out of your practice. This is useful practice, as opposite of useless practice. In this sense I practice a lot :)

I'm pretty new to hand planes, and started my practice on spruce 2x4s (in Ontario all our stuff is spruce). What I can tell you from my limited experience, is that planing spruce 2x4s is a lot different than planing hardwood. Once I felt pretty confident on spruce 2x4s, I decided to smooth some cherry after it went through the power planer... well, I was in for a surprise. This thing they call tear out now reared its ugly head... grain direction and proper plane tuning actually really mattered now. I was leaving ugly plane track marks in my beautiful cherry board. It took me a good day to figure out all the issues I was having, and a lot more technique practice. I never had those issues on spruce... spruce was just making me think I was a god at hand planes :P

[Jim Koepke]

Howdy Ryan and Welcome to the Creek. I see you have been around awhile. Your profile doesn't list Ontario as your location. If you post again in another three years many of us old fogies may not remember your where abouts.

Soft woods do seem to be a lot more forgiving than hardwoods. Mostly my work is in western pine or other firs.

jtk

[Andrey Kharitonkin]

I'm pretty new to hand planes, and started my practice on spruce 2x4s (in Ontario all our stuff is spruce). What I can tell you from my limited experience, is that planing spruce 2x4s is a lot different than planing hardwood. Once I felt pretty confident on spruce 2x4s, I decided to smooth some cherry after it went through the power planer... well, I was in for a surprise. This thing they call tear out now reared its ugly head... grain direction and proper plane tuning actually really mattered now. I was leaving ugly plane track marks in my beautiful cherry board. It took me a good day to figure out all the issues I was having, and a lot more technique practice. I never had those issues on spruce... spruce was just making me think I was a god at hand planes :P

Right! I had similar experience. Maybe somewhere in Australia some time ago there was construction wood out of jarrah but in my area it is also softwood. The steamed beech was a hard surprise after it... it was a bitch, I should say :) Very demanding for technique, sharp blade and lubrication.

But with the scrub plane with proper scrub blade it goes pretty good on hardwood. Might be a good starting point for beginning.

[Patrick Chase]

I'm pretty new to hand planes, and started my practice on spruce 2x4s (in Ontario all our stuff is spruce). What I can tell you from my limited experience, is that planing spruce 2x4s is a lot different than planing hardwood. Once I felt pretty confident on spruce 2x4s, I decided to smooth some cherry after it went through the power planer... well, I was in for a surprise. This thing they call tear out now reared its ugly head... grain direction and proper plane tuning actually really mattered now. I was leaving ugly plane track marks in my beautiful cherry board. It took me a good day to figure out all the issues I was having, and a lot more technique practice. I never had those issues on spruce... spruce was just making me think I was a god at hand planes :P

Yeah, practicing on soft woods (note, not necessarily the same thing as "softwoods") is a waste of time. I use mostly yellow birch and euro beech since I can get them reasonably cheaply and they're decently representative of "mid-range" hardwoods. As a bonus some of the cheap birch is anything but straight-grained, with plenty of waviness and reversals to be had if you look for it.

My son mostly practices planning on poplar, but that's so soft that it's almost as much of a "hero wood" as spruce even though it's technically a hardwood.

[Jim Koepke]

My son mostly practices planning on poplar, but that's so soft that it's almost as much of a "hero wood" as spruce even though it's technically a hardwood.

My soft hardwood is alder. There is a lot of it growing on my property. A local landscape supply also sells alder mill ends for firewood very cheaply. In the house I keep a small block plane for making shavings to help with restarting a fire when there are only embers. Otherwise my shop shavings are used. Back in the day, before newspapers accumulated in folks homes, it wouldn't surprise me to find folks made and kept shavings for starting their fires.

jtk

[lowell holmes]

I can't believe I mis-spelled practice. :rolleyes:

Oh well . . . . . .

[steven c newman]

I usually just call it "Practizing".......Last wood scrap used was a slab of White Oak. And...it had a big old knot in it, to boot. Stanley #5-1/2 had zero problems going over the knot...

[Chris Hachet]

I usually just call it "Practizing".......Last wood scrap used was a slab of White Oak. And...it had a big old knot in it, to boot. Stanley #5-1/2 had zero problems going over the knot... That 5 1/2 has me lusting a 5 1/2....if I get money I will get one from Mr. Lie Nielson....

[lowell holmes]

My Stanley 5 1/2 is an awesome plane. It is a good smoother as well as edge planing. It will make
translucent shavings.

[steven c newman]

Stanley No. 5-1/2, Type 17. Had the painted handles.....well, at least half the paint was still there. I striped off the remaining black paint....
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Seen here with a Union No. 5-A. I wound up selling the Union one...
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Since I could at least get the Stanley to work the way it was supposed to.