Galvo fiber laser and Polished Stainless -- Sand Blasting First

[Bill George]

I am trying to develop a product line to be fiber laser engraved that is only available in highly polished stainless steel. Satin finish, and I have looked for days is not on the market for this item.
It engraves, but thanks to the reflective finish its just about impossible to read.

At one time I had a nice sandblasting setup but its long gone.

Is it possible to get a nice matte finish on this material with a really fine grit and sandblasting?:confused:

[Braden Todd]

What about using a random orbital sander with fine grit paper?

[Gary Hair]

Soda blasting may be the right ticket, just abrasive enough to give you a matte finish but it's not going to eat away the metal like AO or SC would. Sandpaper or scotchbrite would be too difficult to get a random pattern unless you use an RO sander.

[Mike Null]

Bill
Not sure this is relevant but here is stainless that I blasted with 150 grit silicon carbide.

[Bill George]

Thanks guys.... I have sandblasted in the past but not my idea of fun. But just for a couple of what if proto types I am going to get just a cheap, stick in the bag sandblaster and do it outside. Using the finest grit I can buy. This is Des Moines Iowa, not a lot of choices.... blasting soda, sure we can UPS a few bags in to you... how many do you need?

[Mike Null]

Bill

I don't like sand blasting either but Harbor Freight is your friend. They have decent quality inexpensive stuff. If you want to do a good consistent job you'll need a pressure pot--siphon just won't cut it.

SC is pricey but recyclable almost forever.

[Kev Williams]

I'm not exactly sure what you're after, but, if you're wanting to matte finish polished stainless, let your fiber do it...
First pic is the 'original' watchback my customer wanted me to match. Second pic is the same back after polishing, and my 'match'.
The back was roughly 3/4" diameter, and I (and my customer) couldn't have been happier with how it turned out--
(the smudge is where I blotted out the SN)

349442349443

[Bill George]

Yes I tried that also Kev but the item is larger than my lens can cover which is 150 mm square and then its also an alignment issue. I did find some smaller products to use and going to try sandblasting today on the larger ones.

[Keith Outten]

Bill,

I normally use glass beads for blasting jobs that I want a really smooth satin finish. You can purchase glass beads at Northern Tool if you don't have an sandblasting supplier in your area.
.

[Brian Leavitt]

Bill,

I normally use glass beads for blasting jobs that I want a really smooth satin finish. You can purchase glass beads at Northern Tool if you don't have an sandblasting supplier in your area.
.
Tractor Supply also carries glass bead.

[Bill George]

Well I am headed to TSC to purchase the small sandblast cabinet and glass beads. thanks guys.

[Brian Leavitt]

Well I am headed to TSC to purchase the small sandblast cabinet and glass beads. thanks guys.
If you're getting the small, top loading cabinet, and you haven't used one like this before, I would recommend you take some time and seal up all of the seams before using it. The blasting media will blow out everywhere if you don't. I used to have one which I bought from TSC -- used for cleaning carburetors and small car parts. Sealing the seams and keeping the little internal air filter clean is a necessity. That little filter will clog up quick. I eventually gave that cabinet to my brother when I got a nice big Rayzist cabinet.

[Keith Outten]

Brian,

Did you connect your shop vac to the blast cabinet? I always connect either my shop vac or my dust collector depending on the size of the cabinet. My experience is that takes care of any small leaks in the seams and I can collect the media so I can use it again by cleaning my shop vac tank and filter before I start blasting.

[Bill George]

Never had an enclosed one before, all the other work done when I had the PlasmaCam was outside. If the shop vac was hooked up how could it leak from the seams? This is big enough for all I am going to do and it was 2 miles away, already assembled (maybe they all are) and only $105. If it does not work,it goes back. Oh and they had the glass bead, thanks Keith.

[Brian Leavitt]

Brian,

Did you connect your shop vac to the blast cabinet? I always connect either my shop vac or my dust collector depending on the size of the cabinet. My experience is that takes care of any small leaks in the seams and I can collect the media so I can use it again by cleaning my shop vac tank and filter before I start blasting.
I always used it with the filter installed on the side port where the shop vac was hooked up. It worked fine, but the filter always clogged quickly and pressure would build up in the cabinet before long. Doesn't matter now, though, since I gave it away.

[Bill George]

Well I did need to fill in some un-caulked seams. They solved the problem of a shop vac hose not fitting, there is nothing but a 2 1/4 inch hole now and nothing I had in my junk/ inventory pile worked so it was cobble job time. If I can't find or make an adapter I may just 3D print one. It does work and I need a lot more practice to get an even finish but weekend guests coming and I may not get time to play!
The side port for the vac now has a foam pre-filter.

[Bill George]

So I search and find out Home Depot carries a universal Shop Vac adapter and for less than $10. Problem solved.