Need ideas for new shop floor, ceiling and walls.

[Randy Red Bemont]

Hey All,

I have this posted on another forum that is local to me but I would like to see what everyone has done who has recently built a new workshop.

I will be starting a new house and workshop build in the very near future. I am looking to see what you did for flooring and what you did on your walls/ceiling in the workshop. Here is the plan so far;

I am building a 26' x 36' shop with 10'+ ceiling height. It will be on a crawl space so it will have a 3/4" subfloor of AdvanTech. Should I put something over this or is this enough?

As for the walls and ceiling, what kind of covering did you use? Sheetrock doesn't seem like a good choice. OSB, T&G pine are some thoughts.

I've had basement workshops on concrete slabs (my last 4 houses) my entire life and I am finally coming above ground. I want to do it right since I will be in this house a long time. So any thoughts or recommendations are greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

Red

[Patrick Morris IV]

Sounds like what I did with the Advantech. I just put a couple of coats of porch and deck semi-gloss enamel on it, and it has held up for 5 years. Used sheet rock on walls and ceiling painted white. enjoy your new shop

Pat

[Tim Bueler]

Just finished my third shop this year.

On the floor I put 1/2" underlayment grade particle board over the subfloor. Relatively inexpensive, easy to replace, nice and smooth, durable as long as it's kept dry. Used 1/2" ACX plywood by the door where I come in with wet shoes. Didn't put any finish/sealer on the floor in any of my shops, just let them patina.

For the walls I used 7/16" OSB. Cost was comparable to drywall. I put rough side out, taped the joints w/ all purpose joint compound then rolled on textured with more compound and a heavy knap roller. Easy peasy. Can pretty much hang anything anywhere. Super heavy stuff I still found a stud.

Ceiling I put up 5/8" drywall with the same roll on texture as the walls. Primed and painted walls and ceiling with semi-gloss white. Dust blows right off and it makes it much brighter.

If your shop is attached to your house there may be codes in effect that will dictate the use of Type X drywall on walls and ceilings. Also, I built a free standing shop for a customer once and the building dept. made us install fire resistant exterior drywall on the entire building. Don't remember the exact reason but I think it may have had something to do with him telling them he would be welding in his shop. Careful how much you tell the bldg. dept. It can get costly.

[Jim Becker]

I'd probably put another "nicer" layer on the floor..."just because". Closeout wood strip flooring can be pretty inexpensive and not only does it beef things up from just the sheet goods, but it will also look nice once sanded. (i might not even put a finish on it or just oil it) But it's not a "required" thing unless the sheet goods are too thin or your joists are too wide to support the anticipated weight of your machinery.

As to walls, I used both T1-11 and OSB in my shop. I prefer the look of the T1-11. OSB really wasn't designed to left "uncovered" and even after soaking it thoroughly with paint, it can still splinter. But...it's cheap, relatively speaking and looks fine once painted. If I were building a brand new shop today, I'd likely completely dry wall it after proper insulation and then do a 4-5' "wainscot" of T&G pine or something equally nice looking to provide a more durable surface at the level where there is the most risk for whacking the wall. The space would be bright with lots of natural light. Tim is spot on that local code may very well dictate what you must do to your walls, so be sure you understand those requirements while you are planning, not after the fact.

But that's me.

[Mike Heidrick]

I am doing dual layers of 3/4 plywood walls in a French Cleat Slatwall design al la Woodsmith plan (only walls not just adding to a wall). Lots of challenges doing this but it is awesome. My floor is 5" concrete with radiant heat.

[Randy Red Bemont]

I kind of like the sheetrock everything and a 5' T&G wainscot. Never thought of that. It would look nice too. Any other idea please pass them along.

The workshop will be detached from the house. I will do a mini-split for the HVAC. It will also have attic storage above.

Keep the ideas coming. Thanks.

Red

[Jim Becker]

Just remember that if you install the T&G wainscot "vertical", you'll want to incorporate nailers into your walls prior to rocking... ;) If you use a T&G "look" sheet goods product, you may want a nailer at the top for additional stability, but otherwise, the studs will work just fine. Any outlet boxes will also need to account for the extra depth from the get-go if possible to avoid needing to use spacers after the fact. I honestly prefer surface mount in conduit for "major machine circuits" for easier changes over time, but for general outlets, "in the wall" is probably more convenient. These are just planning things, but good to get on the list so they are not overlooked.

[Malcolm McLeod]

...As for the walls and ceiling, what kind of covering did you use?

Take a look at 'slatwall' products for the walls; used extensively in retail displays. It's basically a heavy-duty take on pegboard and similarly lets you hang all kinds of stuff, but move it as needs evolve.

[Stan Powers]

I went with a "nicer" floor option for my new shop. I put down 1/2 in underlay on top of the subfloor and then finished with 1 foot vinyl floor tiles in a checkerboard. It is easy to clean, still soft on the feet and tools and if you use a light color it brightens up the shop. Relatively low cost if you do the install yourself.

[Kurt Kintner]

I used PVC soffit material on my ceiling.

[Robert Engel]

It totally depends on the budget and philosophy.

Something like hardwood flooring + T&G pine walls + sheetrock ceiling to me would make a "showroom" shop.

Or sand or paint and finish the floor + sheetrock walls and ceiling would also look good

If there are heavy pieces of equipment going in, I would take a close look at the joist structure under the floor. That is really more important then the flooring itself. You can always put a machine on another layer of ply but if the floor sags you have a problem. You may need to add a joist or a support beam underneath a particular machine.

I don't like drywall in a shop just because I like to put a nail anywhere I want to hand tools and jigs etc. But its not that big a deals. Wood or sheetrock, I would paint the walls white or a light color.

Lighting will also be a big decision for you with 10' ceilings.

Also, I would consider surface running all my electrics. Its a bit more expensive but give so much flexibility. Your outlets won't determine where you place machines. When I built my shop after I figured out the machine locations, and ran the electric circuits right to them.

[Randy Red Bemont]

I like the idea of surface running the electrical once I know where the power tools are going to be located. As far as the building structure, it is being built as a woodworking shop so it will built accordingly. The joist will be sized and spaced correctly. Some great ideas. Thanks and if you have more please add to it.

Red

[Jim Becker]

If you bring your primary machine circuits out to j-boxes, it's very easy to route and reroute over time as your needs (and machines) change. I also prefer to use #10 cable out from the breaker box to the j-box to provide flexibility for accommodating both 20a and 30a 240v circuits without having to re-wire. I just match the breakers and terminations to the correct amperage if I rearrange things in the shop.

[Tim Bueler]

If you bring your primary machine circuits out to j-boxes, it's very easy to route and reroute over time as your needs (and machines) change.

That's pretty much what I did, too. I have a main "machine" wall in my shop and ran 1-1/2" conduit down the entire wall with 3 or 4 junction/pull boxes along the way. Things change. I also have copper air line and DC pipe running parallel with the conduit. It's very industrial looking which isn't everyone's cup of tea. For me personally, the whole lash up cost a pile of $ and I wanted to see it. Plus, as Jim says, it's easy to "route and reroute" over time.

Love the idea of a wainscot wall!

I went with a floor that's not "nicer" because I know how I am. Sliding cabinets across the floor, heavy machines (some on rolling bases), dripping glue, splashed finish, etc. My wife wanted me to put down VCT but don't really like to clean so PB underlayment, sweep the floor once or twice a day, replace the occasional sheet, don't worry about the battle scars. I admire those who are fastidious enough to have a "nicer" floor...it's just not me. For you, think about how you're going to use your shop.
Tim

[Richard Barker]

:cool:
Cheap "tavern oak" over advantec with two coats of Waterloc.

[Jim Dwight]

My current and previous shop have 7/16 OSB with a skim coat of drywall mud and painted white. The skim coat makes the OSB look better and makes it more easily painted. I prefer to be able to hang things anywhere and it is not easily damaged. Takes less time/effort than drywall too. The ceiling of both have 5/8 fire rated drywall because there is living space above them. I don't hang things from the ceiling so no advantage to OSB up there. The floor of both is concrete. It doesn't bother me but I wouldn't mind a wood floor sometime. If you use the subfloor as the finish floor, I would put on a few coats of poly to make it easier to clean.

My outlets are about 4 feet off the floor. If I had a crawl space, I would put some in the floor - table saw for sure. That would also permit easier moves. I have only two circuits but that wouldn't be enough for most people. I have a 20A 110V for tools and a 15A light circuit I also have a few outlets on. For lights I have 4 cheap double bulb ceiling fixtures with CFLs in them (shop garage is 14x24). At least one 220V would probably be good idea. I don't see a need for a lot of circuits for a one person shop. I can only use one tool at a time (plus possibly a DC).

I have one 24 foot wall with no windows set up with a long bench for the CMS and RAS that share a fence and flip stops. The router table, shop vac, and a few other things are along this wall at the same height as the CMS and RAS. I made the bench 30 inches tall and then put wood under the saws to lift them to 38 inches. The benches have drawers for tool storage. Above the tools, I have drywall conduit in double 2x4s supporting hardwood lumber. Where the saws are not, there is a Paulk style work surface that has the flip stops in it (the flush style he uses on his 3x6 worksurface). More tools live inside this dual layer surface. This wall is the only finished wall right now. Other long wall has two windows so it is less useful. The 3x7 rolling workbench can be pushed against it but it needs cabinets or something above. The existing wall has given me enough storage to get the tools into the shop and get somewhat organized. So I can take a little time figuring out what goes on the other wall.

[Jim Andrew]

I like the idea of a crawl space under the shop. Make sure you allow enough room under the floor to easily work underneath. Being able to wire your machines from under the floor, and having your DC under would be cool. First thing I would do, would be to glue 2" closed cell styrofoam to the inside of the stem walls, so you could get by without putting insulation between your floor joists.

[Randy Red Bemont]

Great ideas! Thanks.

Red