Twin Screw Vice

[Chris Hachet]

So, I have been enjoying the presence of one of my sons friends "Brian" in my wood shop, Brian is building guitars from scratch using largely neanderthal methods. We have been sharing my small Roubo bench and I am thinking of finally building a second bench so we can work together more easily.

Brian loves the Benchcrafted Traditional leg vise we have on my Roubo, but thought we might try a twin screw vice for the other bench. The more I think about this idea, the more I like it.

Thinking Holtzapffel style bench with maybe two Lake Erie Tool works wood screws...Lie Nielson seems to make a nice twin screw vice also....

So my question is, how do twins crew owners here like their vice? Schwartz changed his twin screw to a leg vice.

Also, is buying 12/4 lumber from a lumber yard a bad idea for a bench top if I want fewer laminations?

Thanks!

Chris

[Prashun Patel]

If you can find it dried, and don't mind heaving heavy wood, then go for it. But I have had a devil of a time finding stable 12/4 that is a) dry, b) doesn't cost and arm and a leg, c) isn't pithy or close-to-pithy. YMMV.

[Chris Hachet]

If you can find it dried, and don't mind heaving heavy wood, then go for it. But I have had a devil of a time finding stable 12/4 that is a) dry, b) doesn't cost and arm and a leg, c) isn't pithy or close-to-pithy. YMMV.


I am going to try Yoder lumber in Northern Ohio when I am ready to start. If anyone has experience buying 12/4 from a good source in the mid west, please speak up...

[Dave Anderson NH]

I love my twin screw vise which has wooden screws. I made sure I had 24.5" between the threads. This allows me to dovetail even the widest carcass in the vise. Because the threads are so coarse it opens and closes quite quickly and you learn pretty fast how to spin both screws at once.

[Chris Hachet]

I love my twin screw vise which has wooden screws. I made sure I had 24.5" between the threads. This allows me to dovetail even the widest carcass in the vise. Because the threads are so coarse it opens and closes quite quickly and you learn pretty fast how to spin both screws at once.

This is pretty much what I was looking for....!

The ability to dovetail wide carcass sides is high on my list.

[David Sloan]

I have had the Veritas twin screw vice for a very long time. It is a great vice but as I recall it was a lot more difficult to install on my large home made bench than i expected. It is very solid and very well constructed.

[Rob Luter]

I have the Veritas twin screw as well. It works great.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2583/4103275307_f30a5080da_b.jpg

[paul cottingham]

I just made a twin screw that resembles Dave Andersons, except mine uses metal screws and is removable. Made it in an afternoon. Use it all the time. It is a little sloppy, but the utility more than makes up for that. The main reason I didn't use wooden screws was cost. My family lives on a tight pension. Of course, if I was as clever as St Roy....

That sort of design could easily be used as a permanent install on a bench.

[Chris Hachet]

I have the Veritas twin screw as well. It works great.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2583/4103275307_f30a5080da_b.jpg


....also glad someone else here works on a slightly shorter bench....

[Rob Luter]

....also glad someone else here works on a slightly shorter bench....

I'd love an eight footer, but I have space constraints in my small basement shop area. It works just fine at 60" long.

[Chris Hachet]

I'd love an eight footer, but I have space constraints in my small basement shop area. It works just fine at 60" long.

My small Roubo is slightly over sixty inches also. It is an ideal size for my small work shop.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

I have the Lie Nielsen twin screw, and I'm sorry to say it's not yet installed, but what I like about theirs is that it has one handle, and the other screw is let in to the vise chop. Now I am not knocking the Veritas vise, which is clearly a high quality tool, but what I don't like about that one is when you spin one handle, the other one comes around and you have to beware that it doesn't hit you. I'm sure you can just leave one handle off the Veritas. Another reason I like the LN is everything gets morticed into the chop for a nice, clean look. Of course there is also the quality, and this thing is just insanely well-built and solid.

There is another option out there- the Hovarter vise, which works off a gear that activates a compression mechanism to hold the item in place. What I like about it is that you don't have the oily screws getting in the way- just a clean smooth bar. The gears are hidden under the bench. The only reason, and I mean the ONLY reason I did not choose that vise is that it doesn't clamp well if you place your dog holes on the outer edge, away from the two sliding mechanisms. No vise clamps best that way, but it's an especial problem for the way a Hovarter vise clamps. I chose the Lie-Nielsen because placing the dog holes an inch or two outside the screws won't be too much issue. It may rack (in theory) but it will still hold. That being said, the cool thing about the Hovarter vise is that you slide the jaws shut, give about 1/4 turn or so, and it clamps. Turn the other way and it unclamps and the jaws slide open.

[Chris Hachet]

I have the Lie Nielsen twin screw, and I'm sorry to say it's not yet installed, but what I like about theirs is that it has one handle, and the other screw is let in to the vise chop. Now I am not knocking the Veritas vise, which is clearly a high quality tool, but what I don't like about that one is when you spin one handle, the other one comes around and you have to beware that it doesn't hit you. I'm sure you can just leave one handle off the Veritas. Another reason I like the LN is everything gets morticed into the chop for a nice, clean look. Of course there is also the quality, and this thing is just insanely well-built and solid.

There is another option out there- the Hovarter vise, which works off a gear that activates a compression mechanism to hold the item in place. What I like about it is that you don't have the oily screws getting in the way- just a clean smooth bar. The gears are hidden under the bench. The only reason, and I mean the ONLY reason I did not choose that vise is that it doesn't clamp well if you place your dog holes on the outer edge, away from the two sliding mechanisms. No vise clamps best that way, but it's an especial problem for the way a Hovarter vise clamps. I chose the Lie-Nielsen because placing the dog holes an inch or two outside the screws won't be too much issue. It may rack (in theory) but it will still hold. That being said, the cool thing about the Hovarter vise is that you slide the jaws shut, give about 1/4 turn or so, and it clamps. Turn the other way and it unclamps and the jaws slide open.

I strongly considered the Hovarter with the last bench I built. I did not know that about the Hovarter vise...thanks for letting me know...

I am very, very happy with every L-N item I use in my shop.

[steven c newman]

Hochstettler Lumber is about 5 miles to the north of me...corner of 68 and 113.....Amish Hardwood Dealer.. we could check Levi's stock while you are here Saturday....might be better than Yoder's?

[Chris Hachet]

I think we should do just that. I need some Maple anyways.....

[Joe A Faulkner]

Another source of wooden screws is just to the west of you in Indiana. Matt Evans is the owner\operator. He has an 18" twin vise kit.
I sourced the screw for leg vise from him.

http://www.thetraditionalcarpenter.com/?post_type=product

[Bill Satko]

As you can see, I have the LN vise. Going on 5 years now and have been very happy with it.

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I thought I would kill two birds with one stone by including a closeup (somewhat) with one of Steve Voigt's try planes in the background. Thanks again Steve, it is still a pleasure to use.

[Sheldon Funk]

I am breaking my lurker status and finally posting. I don't usually have much to add to all the talent here, but I can answer your questions.

I like my twin screw vise. In fact the only advice I can offer if/when you use a TS as a front vise is to ensure that the handle doesn't extend past the end of the bench when it's oriented horizontally. I use my face vise to hold small boards when ripping and it's annoying to have to loosen the handle in order to slide it out of the way to ensure I don't hit it with my handsaw. Pictures being worth 1,000 words means I can't find any in my collection that would explain what I mean here.

Also, 12/4 is a great idea, assuming you mean to glue two or three slabs together, it might also be a good idea if you mean to orient differently but that will depend on the cost.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

I am breaking my lurker status and finally posting. I don't usually have much to add to all the talent here, but I can answer your questions.

I like my twin screw vise. In fact the only advice I can offer if/when you use a TS as a front vise is to ensure that the handle doesn't extend past the end of the bench when it's oriented horizontally. I use my face vise to hold small boards when ripping and it's annoying to have to loosen the handle in order to slide it out of the way to ensure I don't hit it with my handsaw. Pictures being worth 1,000 words means I can't find any in my collection that would explain what I mean here.

Also, 12/4 is a great idea, assuming you mean to glue two or three slabs together, it might also be a good idea if you mean to orient differently but that will depend on the cost.


Welcome! Nice first post.

[Chris Hachet]

I am breaking my lurker status and finally posting. I don't usually have much to add to all the talent here, but I can answer your questions.

I like my twin screw vise. In fact the only advice I can offer if/when you use a TS as a front vise is to ensure that the handle doesn't extend past the end of the bench when it's oriented horizontally. I use my face vise to hold small boards when ripping and it's annoying to have to loosen the handle in order to slide it out of the way to ensure I don't hit it with my handsaw. Pictures being worth 1,000 words means I can't find any in my collection that would explain what I mean here.

Also, 12/4 is a great idea, assuming you mean to glue two or three slabs together, it might also be a good idea if you mean to orient differently but that will depend on the cost.


Welcome also! Glad you took time to post....

[glenn bradley]

....also glad someone else here works on a slightly shorter bench....


My latest bench is shorter than its predecessor. Floor space giving room to work is just as important as a surface to work on, eh? I designed the bench for, and have, a second twin screw for the tail but, am still waffling there.

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I often put my bench-on-bench at the tail but,

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today I feel the second twin screw will find its home there.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Couple of thoughts:

Wish vises on my bench could hold a wider board. No matter how wide you make it, you will wish it were wider (probably).

I really really like my Moxon vise. Couple of nice things about it. First, it is very wide. Never wished it were wider so perhaps my previous comment is wrong. Also, when I cut dovetails by hand, it is easier for me if the board is elevated. The Moxon vise sits on top of my bench, which puts it at the perfect height, just something to think about. If you are obtaining hardware for such things, you might want to consider that you will also want to make a moxon vise. It seems like the hardware might be similar if you choose to make it so. I own a moxon vise and have considered making another just as a cool project. I also considered making a "bench on a bench" that essentially has a similar vise on the end.

Finally, looking forward to helping you with the bench so that I can make all the mistakes on yours and make mine right :D

[Chris Hachet]

Couple of thoughts:

Wish vises on my bench could hold a wider board. No matter how wide you make it, you will wish it were wider (probably).

I really really like my Moxon vise. Couple of nice things about it. First, it is very wide. Never wished it were wider so perhaps my previous comment is wrong. Also, when I cut dovetails by hand, it is easier for me if the board is elevated. The Moxon vise sits on top of my bench, which puts it at the perfect height, just something to think about. If you are obtaining hardware for such things, you might want to consider that you will also want to make a moxon vise. It seems like the hardware might be similar if you choose to make it so. I own a moxon vise and have considered making another just as a cool project. I also considered making a "bench on a bench" that essentially has a similar vise on the end.

Finally, looking forward to helping you with the bench so that I can make all the mistakes on yours and make mine right :D


Excellent!

[steven c newman]

Instead of a lower bench...I merely sit down on a shop stool.....
:rolleyes:

[Jim Koepke]

Howdy Sheldon and welcome, though it seems strange welcoming someone who has been a member longer than me.

jtk

[Joshua Hancock]

One if the first episodes of the Woodwrights shop that I saw was the twin screw one, this was also early on in my slide down the slippery slop. I made one out of some scrap 2x10s, lag bolts that I epoxied in, and butterfly nuts that I epoxied into woodrn tighteners. Couldn't afford a vice and it cost me about 8 bucks (used wood from the 70% off pile at big orange) . It is very multipurpose, can hold wide panels for joinery, mortising, longish boards for jointing. For better grip ill add some rubber shelf liner, and will have a rock solid hold. I would recommend one, but if I would do it again, I would make one that you can clamp or hold fast one down to adjust its position( unlike myself, where I screwed it to the end of the bench)

[Mike Walsh]

I have 2 of the LN twin-screw vises on my bench and love both of them - great investment for me

[Sheldon Funk]

Howdy Sheldon and welcome, though it seems strange welcoming someone who has been a member longer than me.

jtk
Just squeeked in before you, but have a lot of contributions to make to come close to 1% of your input.

Thanks for all the welcomes!