Restore or replace Delta Unifence 34-915?

[Michael Walton]

I have a Delta 34-444 that was passed down to me and has a bit of a personal connection. That being said, the table and extensions are badly rust damaged to the point that I'm going to be replacing them from eBay salvaged parts. The Unifence is also in a bit of rough shape and never has been particularly easy to maneuver. I'd need to spend some time/money restoring it so I'm trying to figure out if it makes sense to just replace it with an Inca or Vega (or another model, I'm open to suggestions). People seem to love the Unifence but it never has slid well nor is small adjustment easy.

[keith micinski]

Some photos of condition would help but I wouldn't have any other fence then a unifence. I actually bought a spare, once they quit making it just in case something happens to mine.

[Michael Walton]

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[Michael Walton]

The actual fence has a few small nicks and overspray which should come off easily. The rail (not pictured) needs to be cleaned up and a new tape. Fence also needs a new sight line and the clamp is rusted.

[Matt Day]

I don't know anything about the Unifence but it looks to be in very good condition. I'd do a down and dirty tuneup type restoration to get it working better.

If ww'ing is a hobby to you, the time invested shouldn't matter if you're enjoying it. If you're in Ohio or close by, contact me via PM.

[keith micinski]

All of that is easy to address while your at it get a Wixey digital fence and a peach tree fence.

[Bill Space]

I don't really know how to answer your specific question, but I will tell you I LOVE my Unifences (have two) and would not replace them with anything else! But...maybe that is just me...:)

Bill

[John Gornall]

A unifence should slide easily. There should be no metal to metal contact. When unlatched it moves on 5 plastic slides. 2 which ride on the top of the main rail which are also used to square the fence to the table, 2 that are against the front of the main rail which are also used to adjust the fence parallel to the blade and miter slots, and a single button under the fence at the end of the casting against the saw table. These plastic slides need to be cleaned and polished every now and then - they get sawdust embedded. The main rail and the saw table where these contact should be clean and waxed. A secret with this fence is to make sure the fence doesn't ride on the table - there should be a little clearance between the fence and the saw table. When I adjust the fence I put a rule under it while I position and clamp the fence. Then remove the rule - fence is about 1/16th above the saw table. Now the fence will slide like grease.

[Cary Falk]

Fences are personal preference. I don't like the Unifence. I am more of a Biesemeyer type of guy.

[John Gornall]

One other issue which can make a unifence hard to move is if the clamp has been misused leaving the inside of the main rail scarred - may need a little filing to smooth the nicks. Get a handle on how the clamp works and how to adjust it. Unifence manual should be online somewhere.

[Kevin McCluney]

My old saw had a Unifence (which I really liked) and the one pictured looks to be in pretty good condition, at least cosmetically.

[Rich Riddle]

There are much better fences available than a Unifence. I vote for replace. A fence is very important in woodworking, as are all good tools.

[Michael Walton]

All the comments are very helpful. It's clear this fence wasn't setup properly. I'm going to clean it up and give it a shot for a while.

[Mike Kees]

Hey Michael, where are you located ? I have a Unisaw table and at least one extension (possibly more). I also would be very interested in that Unifence if you decide you want to buy another fence. PM me if you are interested. I have both unifences and biesmeyer fences ,I really like either one both have there strong points. It really is a personal choice. Good luck with your decision. Mike.

[John Gornall]

Unifence - tall or low, long or short, easy to adjust, no back rail on the saw, drill a couple of holes and attach sacrificial fence or any jigs.

I worked in a shop, used one and bought one - got a table saw later - about 40 years ago

Still my preference.

[Bill Space]

There are much better fences available than a Unifence. I vote for replace. A fence is very important in woodworking, as are all good tools.

Really Rich?

Please enlighten us as to which these fences are, and why they are better. I really would like to know. Perhaps others would too.

I will admit that I added the uni-T-fence rail to my main Unifence. But I still consider it a unifence and don't find much difference using it rather than the other one on my contractors saw.

Bill

[Bill Space]

Afterthought,

Michael, where are you located? I actually have a brand-new shop fox Fence that came with my grizzly G 1023RLWX, that I never opened the box of, because I like my Unifence so much.

If you are not too far from Pittsburgh PA maybe we can work something out if you're interested. Personally I would keep the unifence though...

Bill

[Michael Walton]

I took a look at the parts again tonight. The fence needs some cleaning of overspray but otherwise is solid. I think the part in need of the most work is the fence rail. The rusting tabletop reacted with the aluminum and has put several decent depressions in the rail. And I'd think a replacement would be easy to find but it seems it's nowhere to be found. I should note this wasn't any old rust -- the saw was in an unfortunate spot where water accumulated on it.

[Michael Walton]

I'm in Northern NJ but ironically we are actually in Pittsburgh every other month or so. If I could replace this fence rail I'd stick with the Unifence. If I can't find a replacement rail, is it nuts to cut a hunk of the fence off and re-tap the mounting holes (making the 50" rail a 40" rail)? I don't need to be concerned by the surface gouges correct?

[John Gornall]

There are 2 types of rail. The older ones were drilled for bolts and if you cut it down or move it you have to re drill. There's a trick in positioning the nuts inside the rail in the right position - push in with a measured piece of cardboard. The "newer" rails have a TEE slot for the bolts and you can position the rail anywhere along the saw. I have 3 rails because I've moved a couple of times and had a small shop for a time. I have rails for 30", 40" and 52" rip - moving into my final shop in a few months and will stick with the 40 inch.

[Richard McComas]

There are much better fences available than a Unifence. I vote for replace. A fence is very important in woodworking, as are all good tools.What fences do you like?
I like my unifence and the fence on my Felder Slider. I use the features of the unifence quite a bit. Pulling the fence back for ripping and forward for cross cutting. I flip it to low profile for thin ripping and use the laminate feature as well.

[Jim Becker]

All the comments are very helpful. It's clear this fence wasn't setup properly. I'm going to clean it up and give it a shot for a while.

I believe this will be time well-spent. While some folks don't prefer the UniFence, it's ability to be high/low can bring great advantage and sometimes increased safety. I was so glad when I moved from a cabinet saw to my slider that I once again had that ability and flexibility. (my first "real" table was was a Delta contractor's style saw with the UniFence) Yes, attaching jigs to a Beissmeyer type fence can be easier, but Honestly, I've never really done that much since I started woodworking in the late 1990s. Most of the time, my fence is in the "low" position which in-turn helps keep my hand farther from the blade when doing certain kinds of cutting.

And...a fence-in-hand is better than a bill for a new fence. :)

[Michael Walton]

Since I have to rebuild the right-side extension anyway, I'm going to make that extension table 10" smaller (it will also help the saw fit indoors in my workshop) and cut the damaged rail section. Now, next question, will a miter saw cut this rail down?

[Bill Adamsen]

The fence looks completely salvageable to me. The replacement tape lenses for the Unifence have different mounting points, so be careful when ordering. Drilling and tapping into the Unifence Al/Mg casting to change the mounting is very difficult ... best left for a machinist. I mention it because it looks like you are due for a replacement and your's has the old style mount.

A carbide blade miter saw will cut the fence nicely (I cut mine down).

[Michael Walton]

A carbide blade miter saw will cut the fence nicely (I cut mine down).

Did you cut down your fence or the rail? Sounds like I also have more work to do on that when I replace the fence. I was thinking of eventually replacing the fence w/ the Peachtree version.

The 62" rail is what I'm considering chopping down 10".

[Jim Becker]

You can cut aluminum with your miter saw, but not ferrous metal like steel. Use a hack saw or engage someone who does metal working, such as a welder and has an electric steel cutting band saw or similar.

[Michael Walton]

Is the fence rail (the 62" black channel) aluminum or steel? Given what the damage looked like and how easily it dented, I was assuming it was aluminum.

[John Gornall]

The main rail is aluminium and cuts fine - a carbide blade with negative rake is best for aluminium

When cutting a heavy piece of aluminium such as this rail the saw can kick back particularly with a positive rake blade so I would avoid a sliding chop saw or a radial arm saw. Some sliders can be locked.

Funny story - the first time I cut one of these rails i borrowed a chop saw and started cutting - Got about a third of the way thru and the cut was going very slow. Stopped the saw and found the blade on backwards. Reversed the blade and quick finish.

[Michael Walton]

I'm going to find a metal shop near me. At least then it will be square.

[mark kosse]

Mike, perfect square is really necessary to shorten a rail. Miter saw square is fine. I cut aluminum on mine all the time. I have a 1976 pm 66 that looks new. The owner was a tool maker and told me he cut 1" aluminum plate on the saw.

so Rich, why isn't it a good fence? I have 3 of them.

m

[Bill Adamsen]

Yes ... the unifence rail. Though you could also cut the fence. Either would be trivial to cut in a power miter saw. After struggling with the ethics of cutting the rail I finally cut it at a length where the fence would be at the far right of the extension table and the unifence body was still securely on the rail.

[Michael Walton]

I've been working on cleaning up the fence body and it needs some new nylon set screws (one is obliterated, the other is almost stripped). Seems like that has been out of stock for a while, but some searching led me to Grainger, which has these, which I think are the right ones: https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-1-2-Nylon-Socket-Set-Screw-4FXE6

Is that the right part/dimensions?

[lee cox]

My old Unisaw fence different than yours had a bow when I ran a gauge across it. I added a wood piece of Baltic birch to the fence and now my gauge only reads .005 out across the whole fence. Maybe you could add a piece of wood to your fence. The Baltic birch could cover the aluminum damage.

[John Gornall]

Yours is an old model of the Unifence - may be better than the newer ones - I'm not sure. If you can verify the thread size on the unit you have these nylon screws should work fine.

Google the following which should lead you to the manual for your fence:

Unisaw Unifence 34-897F and Table/ Shelf for Unifence 34-998 Instruction Manual

[Michael Walton]

I actually went w/ some nylon-tipped alloy screws from Fastenall (needed a few other things and they were $1.46/each). Hopefully that will add a bit of life to the fence.

[Michael Walton]

Or am I nuts to chop this rail on my tablesaw?

[John Gornall]

Chop it to suit your needs - work that you do - size of your shop. One day if you need more capacity get a longer rail - lots of rails out there.

[Michael Walton]

I was more wondering, do I need to wait to borrow a miter saw or can I just cut it w/ my table saw. It feels a little Silence of the Lambs making the tablesaw cut its own fence rail.

[John Gornall]

Can be done on the table saw - lots of opportunity for it to kick if it isn't supported well and held solid by the miter gauge - are you experienced on table saws?

Chop saw or even hacksaw may be a better choice.

[Tim McCarthy]

That table and extensions are all cast iron correct? I had mine squared up, bolted together with grade 8 bolts/ mechanical lock nuts and then ground flat as a unit. It is a great reference surface. Cost was under $200 (several years ago). I did have to have my miter gage slides (OEM and and Incra) milled down to fit the shallower slot as well but that was dirt cheap. You might look into this option if you are near a metro area.

Best of luck,

Tim

[Michael Walton]

I was looking for a response like that. Sounds like in most scenarios it wouldn't be prudent to cut this rail on a table saw. I've actually been using this very same table saw since 1995. But since I don't want a hunk of aluminum in my cranium, I'm going to wait to borrow a miter saw (I need it for a project I'm working on anyway).

[Michael Walton]

The wings on this model are stamped steel. I have a friend w/ a mill that is currently offline, but I was thinking of resurfacing the old table after I get the new table installed. Maybe cut that down and use it as an extension wing(s)?

[Michael Walton]

Update, parts came in from Fastenal and the new (old) table and wings should be here tomorrow. I'll also probably get the miter saw to chop down the fence rail and reassemble.

The nylon tipped set screws are fantastic. There is more nylon there to work with and I don't have to worry about stripping the hex socket. Here is the part, in case anyone is interested (currently on closeout):

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0134988

Also, I ordered new knobs for the fence as one of the knobs had been replaced by a 5/16 nut which doesn't lend to adjustability:

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/11101393

[Michael Walton]

Fence rail cut like butter with the miter saw. I now have a 52" rail. The new (old) table top arrived, but it might be worse than what I'm dealing with the old (old) table top. Getting a wire brush for my drill and will work on it again tomorrow.

The holes in the rail don't need to be tapped, so I may just drill them myself.