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Keith Downing
12-08-2016, 12:38 PM
Well, I've used this thing 5 or 6 times with no major problems (maybe 200 cups/tins total), now it's suddenly malfunctioning.

It'll do the first 25-75% of the design correctly, then start randomly distorting the image.



I've tried double checking all my settings, even had Boss tech support login to take a look and confirm everything is correct.
I've tried slowing down the speed to reduce any possible "wobble" in the cup.
I've tried adding some weight to the front of the cup as these tins are lighter than an RTIC/Yeti cup.
I've tried adding new O-rings to the rotary.
And obviously tried starting and restarting the machine.


Any other ideas? Boss has graciously agreed to replace the rotary free of charge if I believe it's faulty since I've only had it 10 months; but, they are back ordered and it will be 4-6 weeks before they have any to ship. So any chance this is something I could troubleshoot and fix myself.

Below are some pictures of what it is doing.

Please note: it is NOT engraving the image twice. I simply used the same scrap cup to give two different examples of how the results vary and are not good.

You can clearly see that the design is the same, but on the second pass it was started down half an inch lower and to the left. It distorted so badly on the second pass that it ended at the same point the first did instead of an inch further to the left.

349087

On this one I cut it off once it started to fail, but you can clearly see the "Nig" are all wavy and distorted. The design before that was fine.

349091

Evan Requardt
12-08-2016, 1:35 PM
Keith,

Could it be that the cup is slipping on the rotary attachment? I have engraved many mugs and this started happening to me a few months ago. It appeared that the grips that turn the mug when it's sitting on the rotary attachment were covered with Cermark, so I cleaned it with a paper towel and water and that solved it for me. I hope this helps!

Keith Downing
12-08-2016, 2:16 PM
Keith,

Could it be that the cup is slipping on the rotary attachment? I have engraved many mugs and this started happening to me a few months ago. It appeared that the grips that turn the mug when it's sitting on the rotary attachment were covered with Cermark, so I cleaned it with a paper towel and water and that solved it for me. I hope this helps!

That was my first thought as well. That's why I changed out the O rings (the rubber grips on the rotary). And also tried adding some weights to the cups. It seemed to help some, but I'm still not getting satisfactory results though.

I'm starting to think the rotary really is malfunctioning.

Evan Requardt
12-08-2016, 2:27 PM
Keith,

If that's what you're thinking, then I'd go ahead and order a replacement attachment since they are on back order right now. Also, you could try engraving a heavier weighted tumbler to see if it is the rotary attachment or if these tumblers are just too light weight. Does your rotary attachment allow you to utilize a clamp?

I have an Epilog rotary attachment and it has a clamp that I use specifically for light weight tumblers, because it will engrave just like yours is right now if I don't. See picture for an example of what I mean.

Keith Downing
12-08-2016, 2:50 PM
Keith,

If that's what you're thinking, then I'd go ahead and order a replacement attachment since they are on back order right now. Also, you could try engraving a heavier weighted tumbler to see if it is the rotary attachment or if these tumblers are just too light weight. Does your rotary attachment allow you to utilize a clamp?

I have an Epilog rotary attachment and it has a clamp that I use specifically for light weight tumblers, because it will engrave just like yours is right now if I don't. See picture for an example of what I mean.

That's a brilliant solution Evan. I don't think they sell one for my rotary, but that couldn't be too hard to implement. Can you post another picture of how that attaches to the rotary? Or maybe a picture of just the clamp from the front side.

Kev Williams
12-08-2016, 3:25 PM
I can almost guarantee your cup is slipping ---almost :) - it could also be the drive wheel is slipping.

all the rotary does is take the place of the Y axis, which means is simply shifts one step per sweep of the laser head. For it to do what it's doing would mean it's not stepping at times, or the drive wheel is slipping. With the machine on and the rotary plugged in, check the drive wheel. It should be locked firm and not move. If there's any back & forth slop or play, that's likely your problem...

If not, then: Set the job up to run as normal, but set power to zero AND turn off the laser switch if you have one. Run the exact job, but lay a finger across the drive wheel. Each pass of the head, you should feel a distinct 'click' and feel the wheel move ever so slightly. Lowering the DPI (increasing the "gap" or whatever your software calls it) will make it easier to tell if it's moving, but best to try it exactly as you've been running it...

make sure the stepper clicks after each pass, and also make sure the wheel is actually turning.

To test slippage- Do you have any transfer tape, or blue painters tape should work too. Or black electrical tape, anything the o-rings will for-sure have some grip against...

Wrap some around the circumference where the wheels/o-rings will make contact. If using blue tape, add some to test engrave on at low power...

Hopefully you'll have more traction. Run it and see if the distortion disappears. If so, the part has likely been slipping. If not,

Keith Downing
12-08-2016, 5:03 PM
I can almost guarantee your cup is slipping ---almost :) - it could also be the drive wheel is slipping.

all the rotary does is take the place of the Y axis, which means is simply shifts one step per sweep of the laser head. For it to do what it's doing would mean it's not stepping at times, or the drive wheel is slipping. With the machine on and the rotary plugged in, check the drive wheel. It should be locked firm and not move. If there's any back & forth slop or play, that's likely your problem...

If not, then: Set the job up to run as normal, but set power to zero AND turn off the laser switch if you have one. Run the exact job, but lay a finger across the drive wheel. Each pass of the head, you should feel a distinct 'click' and feel the wheel move ever so slightly. Lowering the DPI (increasing the "gap" or whatever your software calls it) will make it easier to tell if it's moving, but best to try it exactly as you've been running it...

make sure the stepper clicks after each pass, and also make sure the wheel is actually turning.

To test slippage- Do you have any transfer tape, or blue painters tape should work too. Or black electrical tape, anything the o-rings will for-sure have some grip against...

Wrap some around the circumference where the wheels/o-rings will make contact. If using blue tape, add some to test engrave on at low power...

Hopefully you'll have more traction. Run it and see if the distortion disappears. If so, the part has likely been slipping. If not,

I really want to believe that, but everything I've tried to eliminate that possibility hasn't worked.

I tried your tape trick. The painters tape wouldn't work because the way the cup is tapered, it created bumps. The electrical tape I was able to get on their flat. But it either didn't provide enough traction, or (again) it is the actual rotary, because it got half way through and started distorting sporadically again.

So frustrating.

John Lifer
12-08-2016, 6:29 PM
I've been "rotarying" a bunch of cups this week and when I was having problems I thought I had slippage also. I put a bag of beans inside for weight.
Worked ok, but didn't help in my situation.