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View Full Version : Need Some Ideas on router ring inserts....



Corey Hallagan
10-07-2005, 11:34 PM
I have a Bench Dog Pro Contractor router table. I has the usual bench dog aluminum insert plate. It did not come with any addional insert rings. The whole is just a tick under 2 inch round and about 3/8 inch deep. Now, benchdog makes these nylon zero clearnce inserts, however, they are almost 20.00 ea for the darn thngs. I need about 3 different ones for small router bits. I tried 3/8 inch plywood and the 2inch holesaw and it is to loose. It will have to be a tight fit as there are no screw mounting holes. Am I going to have to free hand on on the scroll saw or does anyone have any other ideas?

Thanks,
corey

Lee DeRaud
10-07-2005, 11:54 PM
I have a Bench Dog Pro Contractor router table. I has the usual bench dog aluminum insert plate. It did not come with any addional insert rings. The whole is just a tick under 2 inch round and about 3/8 inch deep. Now, benchdog makes these nylon zero clearnce inserts, however, they are almost 20.00 ea for the darn thngs. I need about 3 different ones for small router bits. I tried 3/8 inch plywood and the 2inch holesaw and it is to loose. It will have to be a tight fit as there are no screw mounting holes. Am I going to have to free hand on on the scroll saw or does anyone have any other ideas?

Thanks,
coreyPlan A: Sounds like a job for a laser. What holds them in the hole, just friction or is there some sort of lip?

Plan B: Use one of the existing rings as a template and rout new ones out of MDF.

Steve Stube
10-08-2005, 12:18 AM
You could cut/turn them on a lathe (wood or metal) to the proper outside diameter or a little oversize on the scroll saw (or holesaw) and drill a small center hole and 1.) provide an axle shaft to let it rotate on as you contact the wheel face with the belt on your sander.Twist the axle a little bias to remove material until it gives a tight fit in the hole/recess or 2.) insert a small screw thru the center hole and double nut it to lock it on the screw and chuck up the protruding threads (beyond the nuts) in the drillpress and block sand or file the OD to size.

Corey Hallagan
10-08-2005, 12:23 AM
Thanks Lee. It would be held in by friction or the lip if you matched the depth exactly which is about 7/16 deep I think. Not quite a half inch. I could order one and then do as you say but how would you route something that small safely? It would definitely raise the pucker factor for me :eek:
Thank you,
Corey

Corey Hallagan
10-08-2005, 12:28 AM
That is an idea Steve, thanks. Would have to use a scroll saw. No lathe.
Thanks
Corey

Lee DeRaud
10-08-2005, 12:48 AM
Thanks Lee. It would be held in by friction or the lip if you matched the depth exactly which is about 7/16 deep I think. Not quite a half inch. I could order one and then do as you say but how would you route something that small safely? It would definitely raise the pucker factor for me :eek:
Thank you,
CoreyCorey, I sent you a PM about this.

Scott Donley
10-08-2005, 3:02 AM
Hi,

How about a plane old circle cutter? Like this (http://www.woodcraft.com/depts.aspx?deptid=2149&refcode=06INGOOG&keyword=circle_cutter) . I use one to cut plugs, just reverse the blade so the bevel is on the outside of the cut. Good luck!

Corey Hallagan
10-08-2005, 10:51 AM
Scott, I could try a circle cutter. I have never had much luck with them though as they tend to burn up quickley.

Corey

Jim DeLaney
10-08-2005, 3:46 PM
Hi,

How about a plane old circle cutter? Like this (http://www.woodcraft.com/depts.aspx?deptid=2149&refcode=06INGOOG&keyword=circle_cutter) . I use one to cut plugs, just reverse the blade so the bevel is on the outside of the cut. Good luck!

That's what I used to make mine. Mine are made of either ¼" PVC or Masonite. My router table is of my own design with a solid Corian top, laminated to ¾" plywood substrate. The router (Hitachi M12V) attaches directly to the underside of the Corian. I cut the bit opening to 3½" diameter, to accommodate my largest panel cutter. It's rabbeted ¼" deep and wide around the perimeter to that a 4" diameter insert just drops in, with a snug fit. I then made inserts with center holes in ¼" increments, starting at ½", and going up to about 2½". Works great!

Corey Hallagan
10-08-2005, 5:35 PM
Thanks guys for your help and suggestions.

Corey