Dave Manley
12-05-2016, 1:05 AM
OK Experts - I may be fine but I am a little scared. I purchase a used Delta 34-761S at auction. Good but not great price - $400.
The policy of the auction house is to cut off power cords and force buyers to verify wiring before power up. This also means no power test inspection before purchase. When I powered up (220V) the arbor bearing was screachy. A quick spray of silicon made it quiet but obviously I need to replace right away. I pushed on the belts and it felt like one was a little tighter than the others. In any case, I might as well replace belts while I am there. Motor sounded fine, no vibration, blade feels tight, no run out that I feel. I thouught it was a little louder than I expected - rumbled some - but I could not feel vibration and I think it would pass the nickel test.
I looked around and replacement seems pretty easy but I am still afraid of removing the top and dismantling everything - Will I be able to get good alignment?
Easy questions:
1. If I order bearings and belts, do I need anything else?
2. I found the parts on eReplacement - any other shopping I should do? I want matched belts so I won't risk Grainger or my auto store. $33 each for two bearings and another $40 for belts. Oh well, it should be a tight machine after this, right?
Just curious - anyone know what the "S" after the model indicates? I found the serial lookup table - mine is an 1985 I believe. I did not find a model description but I have the saw so I don't need a lot of details.
I know you guys like details so:
The saw came with a Unifence and the short rail. The fence has blade marks so I got the Uni-T Fence and ordered a 50" rail.
The cool extra was an Excalibur sliding table. I don't have room for it now but I have dreams of a large shop someday so I will hold the slide in storage for now. Perhaps not such a bad price after all..;)
The policy of the auction house is to cut off power cords and force buyers to verify wiring before power up. This also means no power test inspection before purchase. When I powered up (220V) the arbor bearing was screachy. A quick spray of silicon made it quiet but obviously I need to replace right away. I pushed on the belts and it felt like one was a little tighter than the others. In any case, I might as well replace belts while I am there. Motor sounded fine, no vibration, blade feels tight, no run out that I feel. I thouught it was a little louder than I expected - rumbled some - but I could not feel vibration and I think it would pass the nickel test.
I looked around and replacement seems pretty easy but I am still afraid of removing the top and dismantling everything - Will I be able to get good alignment?
Easy questions:
1. If I order bearings and belts, do I need anything else?
2. I found the parts on eReplacement - any other shopping I should do? I want matched belts so I won't risk Grainger or my auto store. $33 each for two bearings and another $40 for belts. Oh well, it should be a tight machine after this, right?
Just curious - anyone know what the "S" after the model indicates? I found the serial lookup table - mine is an 1985 I believe. I did not find a model description but I have the saw so I don't need a lot of details.
I know you guys like details so:
The saw came with a Unifence and the short rail. The fence has blade marks so I got the Uni-T Fence and ordered a 50" rail.
The cool extra was an Excalibur sliding table. I don't have room for it now but I have dreams of a large shop someday so I will hold the slide in storage for now. Perhaps not such a bad price after all..;)