Opinions on Plywood Rack Design

[Michael Zerance]

I need a rack to store sheet goods; full sheets and offcuts. I got a fair rough estimate from a local welder that I have used in the past. Before I give him the drawings, I wanted to get some feedback on the design. Any comments or suggestions?

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[Al Launier]

Nice lookibg rack, but do you think the supports on the left hand side miht tend to "rack" out under a leaning load of full sheets?

[Ben Rivel]

Maybe a couple bars over the top of the full sheet sections connecting them to help them handle extra weight.

EDIT: Well I see now you have those cross bars in the back... Perhaps with the full sheets nearly vertical like that weight on the side supports wouldnt be an issue.

[Mike Wilkins]

You could probably erect the same design using 2 X 4 lumber and some good wood screws. I built a lumber rack in a 'H' pattern for storing solid wood planks, but no reason why it could not work for a plywood rack. Cross bracing at the rear to keep it from racking/leaning.
Cost a lot less also.

[Eric Rimel]

The steel might flex a bit from the weight, but most of the force is vertical so it won't be too much. I'd definitely wrap the steel with carpet or something.

Id have your fabricator weld in small gussets on the two ends so you can easily attach ply to the outside to hang stuff on.

[Steve Jenkins]

I made mine in kind of an A shape so the ply is fully sopport d when it leans

[Yonak Hawkins]

I made mine in kind of an A shape so the ply is fully supported when it leans.

I agree. I tied mine into the floor joists above. While it is not portable, it is adjustable for the number of sheets. It's worked well for me for many years. It cost about $50 to build, I guess.

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[glenn bradley]

No plywood rack is very portable once well loaded. Your design looks good. I agree that some tie-bars across the top would make me feel better. I too would suggest building a similar structure out of 2x4's and using it for 6 months to a year. After that you will have learned everything you need to know about what kind of a rack will work for you.

[Bruce Page]

1" square tubing (assuming) does not allow for much weld area. I would add a 1/4"x4"x4"x45° gusset to each corner leg at the bottom shelf. I would also consider making it taller so you could tie it together at the top.

[Dave Cav]

Is this for a commercial shop where you'll be using a fair amount of sheet stock?

I don't use a lot of sheet goods, but I can have five or six full sheets on hand, more if you count 1/8" stuff, hardboard and laminate. What I ended up building was an assembly table slightly bigger than 4' x 8' with two shelves (plus the bottom), designed so I could slide sheet stock in from one end. I usually had full sheets on the bottom and lower shelf, and smaller pieces and odds and ends of lumber on the top shelf. I put six heavy duty casters under it and can move it around if necessary, but it stays in place pretty well. Of course, the full sheet I need is usually on the bottom of the stack.

[Greg R Bradley]

If you want to move it, this works great for me:
https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/H-4945/Panel-Trucks/Adjustable-Panel-Truck-30-x-60

I have one with Phenolic Faced Baltic Birch so it has a good 1500 pounds on it.

[Wayne Cannon]

Looks nice. A feature I included in my not-as-nice rack was a roller immediately in front of the bottom front of the rack to facilitate loading & unloading heavy sheets. My roller is a fixed 1/2" steel rod axle through a 1 1/2" PVC pipe "roller". Nothing fancy, but it works like a charm.

[Wayne Lomman]

Michael, sheets need to be stored at a slight angle and fully supported for their full height. As drawn your sheets will bow and I am speaking from experience. No need for a radical re design though. Add 6 inches to the overall width and lean each frame 6 inches. It won't tip over as the stored ply will be within the footprint of the base. Also make it 4 inches taller than the sheets and add a top rail. Cheers