Beall buffing bowls

[John Miliunas]

So maybe this should be in "Finishing", but I figured you folks would know best. I just recently picked up a Beall buffing setup. Pretty straightforward but, it seems to me that, somewhere along the way I heard that you shouldn't use one of the buffs on dark woods. Yes/no???:confused: Yes, I looked at the instructions which came with the set and no mention was made of it. Appreciate any insight!:) :cool:

[Jim Becker]

The white diamond (step 2) can end up noticiably in the pores of darker wood like walnut if your finish didn't completely fill them. Just skip it and go right from the first step to the carnuba.

[Joe Horne]

John, on open grain wood, especially dark woods such as Mahogany or Walnut, the White Diamond Compound can and WILL get into the pore structure of the wood, and when that happens things get ugly. Usually, they get ugly both with the looks of the bowl, and the language that follows. ;)


So, as a rule, on open grain woods, especially darker woods, white diamond is a no-no. Other than that, when the instructions say to load the wheels VERY lightly, they mean it. Especially with the white diamond and wax.........when you load those 2 wheels, and you think you have nothing on them.........you have it just right! :) Sure hope that helps John.

[John Miliunas]

Thanks Jim, Joe! :) I'm not even sure what wood this is. I got it eons ago from Donnie R. and was too dumb to mark the pieces. It's a pretty tight grain, but it is dark. I'll not take a chance and do as you guys say. It's already real, real smooth and I just need to take some final scratches out and put a bit more of a shine to it. Thanks again!!!:) :cool:

[Bruce Shiverdecker]

Thanks John for asking the question and thanks Jim for your answer. I just got a Beal system and haven't used it yet. Now. I won't screw up a good piece..............at least NOT when buffing!

Bruce

[Jim Becker]

Just to clarify...this is only an issue if you have open grain. If your finish is built such that the piece is completely smooth, there is no need to skip the step. And BTW, "regular" varnishes (alkyd [P&L #38] or phenolic [Waterlox]) buff much nicer than any form of polyurethane varnish... ;) They have less aversion to abrasion...which is what buffing is all about!

[Glenn Hodges]

I second what Jim said, and add to keep the tripoli and white diamond away from the bark part of the natural edge bowl. If you have voids in the piece and buff you will be sorry because the clay the buff is imbedded into will be found in the small voids and you will be trying to pick out the stuff, especially the white diamond...it really shows up on dark wood. The buffing system will really dress up a finish, and I use it most of the time with my oil finishes.

[Bruce Shiverdecker]

Don't mean to hyjack the thread, Jim, but you brought up "regular varnishes." Can you Apply varnish as a "Friction" finish?

Bruce

[Jim Becker]

Can you Apply varnish as a "Friction" finish?

Sorta. You can wipe it on (thinned 50/50) and "push" it via friction to create heat an jump-start the curing process, but it's not a quick finish like a lacquer- or shellac-based "friction finish" that you buy in a container. This allows you to put a few coats on in a relatively short period of time. But you need to let it fully cure before you buff. I usually wait a week. Most ofmy bowls and vessels are finished this way; usually with Waterlox, Watco, Minwax Antique Oil Finish, or whatever as the material. Like any oil-based finish, be sure you dispose of the the application rags properly!

[Michael Stafford]

I have practically given up on using the white diamond because of so many unhappy experiences. In its place I have been using the coarsest buff (the tripoli buff) uncharged and have been happy with that. I do most of ny buffing while the bowls are on the lathe leaving on the unreachable parts of the bottom to big wheels on my buffer.