Hammer K3

[Ryan Griffey]

I recently took delivery of a K3 table saw. All went fairly well until I tried dialing in the blade and fence.


The blade stops at .5 degrees and won't go any further.
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And the the fence comes out of square when it is clamped against the main cast iron piece.
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Ive tried felder customer service but I've already been waiting a week for them to get back to me. Anybody with similar issues or suggestions. The manual is basically fire starter.

not sure why the pictures rotated?

[Dan Friedrichs]

Ryan, my C3-31 had the same issue with the angle pointer being off by 0.5 degree. I wonder if it's intentional (ie - they calibrate it while standing off to the left side - by the angle crank wheel - and from there it looks correct?). In any case, check if the blade is actually 90* to the table. If not, the 90* positive stop is a stop collar on the threaded rod which connects to the angle adjustment handwheel. If you pull the cover off like you were trying to change the blade, you'll see it. If it's just the indicator that's off by 0.5*, you'll see that there is a bolt holding that indicator in place that can be loosened to adjust the pointer. That's what I did.

Not sure about the fence. Looks like you might have to shim out the bottom of the cast iron piece.

[Rod Sheridan]

Ryan, Dan has the blade adjustment covered.

Is the aluminum fence extrusion is supported by 4 flat head machine screws on the head? If so these are the adjustment for square.

Is your guide rail parallel to the table top and 17mm below the surface? (Check that dimension in case it's no longer 17mm that's specified.

Regards, Rod.

[Rich Riddle]

My K-3 was the same way and it adjusted the way Dan and Rod explained. I also use a Wixey and don't depend on the degree marking (on the decal) on the saw itself.

[Andy Giddings]

My angle scale on the C3 is the same as Dan's. I ignore it as the blade at the stop is 90. My rip fence is also slightly bowed vertically (similar to yours, Ryan). I had to adjust the fence extrusion as per Rod's comment. At least on the C3 its still 17mm. I made a simple plywood depth jig as its a lot easier to adjust the extrusion relative to the cast iron top with the jig.

[Ryan Griffey]

Thanks for the info. I'll be curious to see what felder says about the fence if I ever hear back.

Also, does anybody know what this is for? It's rigid plastic with some slots routed in the back side.
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[Dan Friedrichs]

I had that same question, Ryan :) My "pile of parts I can't identify" kept shrinking until that was the last piece remaining.

It's the "ZCI" for when using a dado stack.

[Ryan Mooney]

I had that same question, Ryan :) My "pile of parts I can't identify" kept shrinking until that was the last piece remaining.

It's the "ZCI" for when using a dado stack.

It also works quite well as a template for making your own ZCI's ... I admit to having kept mine pristine on the side for that purpose :)

[Rod Sheridan]

Thanks for the info. I'll be curious to see what felder says about the fence if I ever hear back.

Also, does anybody know what this is for? It's rigid plastic with some slots routed in the back side.
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That's a table insert for your dado cutter.............Regards, Rod

[Jim Becker]

It's important to remember that quite often, combo machines and other "industrial" tools need careful setup adjustments once delivered and put together after un-crating. It's a normal thing...and left to the buyer to do or hire out. I know I was warned about that when I bought my stuff a number of years ago, but sometimes the message gets lost in the process or the excitement. And as already noted, the "documentation" isn't always very helpful... ;)