Do I need to worry about how much a chuck weighs?

[Frederick Skelly]

Seems to be my night for questions....

I've been going back and forth with myself and others (thanks John!) on getting a chuck for my HF 34706 (essentially a jet 1236) for Christmas. There are lots of good products on sale and the reviews in the archives have helped alot. I noticed that chucks Im looking at vary in weight between 3 1/2 pounds to 5 1/2 pounds.

If I find one I like, does it matter what it weighs? I figure a heavier chuck will take longer to spin up. But will it mess up my lathe if it's too heavy? (Dont laugh - I just got this thing! :D)

Thanks again guys!
Fred

[Thomas Canfield]

The chuck weight is a small fraction of a big chunk of wood mounted as far as the lathe is concerned but can give some stability of inertia with smaller pieces. Nat a laughing matter. The lighter chucks are normally for the smaller pieces and often easier to use as such, and heavier chucks are for the larger pieces.

[Bill Boehme]

Weight isn't at the top of my list of what's important. For a smaller lathe like yours, physical size would be more important. A big chuck is much more likely to get in rhe way when trying to do close in work on the headstock side of a turning. Even on my Robust AB lathe, I use Talon and Vicmarc 100 chucks far more than I use my big chucks because I decide which chuck to use based on the size of the piece of wood that it will be holding and not the size of the lathe. For a lathe with a swing less than 16" there isn't a good reason to use a chuck larger than a Oneway or a Oneway Talon or a Vicmarc 90 or 100. For lathes with a swing of 16" and larger, the smaller chucks are still the better choice for all but large and heavy pieces. The two brands that I mentioned are at the top of my list because of their quality build, accuracy, and ruggedness

[Frederick Skelly]

Tom, Bill, thank you! That clears me up!
Fred

[Aaron Craven]

Frederick,

I also have a 34706 (actually I'm on my second) and I use a Teknatool SuperNova 2. According to the Woodcraft page, it's 5.5lbs and the lathe has absolutely no problems spinning it up. I would think you'd have to have a truly massive chuck for weight to be an issue.

The 34706 is a great machine for its price and you should get a lot of good use out of it. Check the belt that comes with the machine regularly, though; it's pretty cheap and you'll probably want to replace it within the first year. The belt most recommend replacing it with is a 3L240 V-belt. It's not exactly the same size (the belt that comes on the machine appears to be metric or maybe proprietary), but it does the job very well. I've never tried one, but most folks recommend not using link belts because they tend to get pinched in the Reeves drive pullies.

[Reed Gray]

Kind of what Bill said, the size of the chuck depends as much on what you are turning as on how big your lathe is. The smaller chucks would do fine for just about anything that you will be able to mount on your lathe. The bigger heavier ones are for bigger heavier bowls type pieces...

robo hippy

[Prashun Patel]

Which chucks are you considering, Fred? And what do you anticipate turning?

[Frederick Skelly]

Aaron: Thanks for the input and advice. Much appreciated!

Reed, Prashun: You'll laugh at me (because I am too) but I'm not entirely sure what I want to turn. So I'm reluctant to get carried away. I think I want to do more small work for now and eventually try bowls. But the small work interests me the most right now - starting from blanks that are 1-2" square. Doing that between centers is certainly feasible (I can do bottle stoppers that way), but I think a chuck will make it a bit easier to do short, delicate spindles, etc. Plus my folks are nagging me for a Christmas list and I don't want ...... well, you know the kind of stuff you get when you dont give your folks better ideas. :)

Chucks I'm looking at are all "keyed" and I prefer to use inserts to mate to my lathe:
* Hurricane 100. Dovetail jaws. $179.
* Nova G3. 2" jaws are std with lots more available. $110 with insert @ Amazon. (Woodcraft has a package with chuck + 3 jaw sets for $150 + $20 more for insert.)
* Supernova 2. 3 jaw sets + insert. $212.
* Barracuda 2. 4 sets of jaws. $139.

I'm reading the archives here for reviews. All of them have fans. The chuck "sets" are well priced but I dont know that I'll ever use all those jaws. (I once bought a set of Narex Paring Chisels. I never use that 1 1/4" monster the set included. You understand.) I'm leaning toward just getting the G3 with an insert because it's a basic chuck that's expandable later. We'll see.......

Any thoughts or advice are very welcome. As I said, I'm searching the archives here too.

Thanks again everyone.
Fred

[Aaron Craven]

...I dont know that I'll ever use all those jaws....

Hmmm... I've never used any other jaws on my SN2 (just the set it came with -- 50mm, I think), but then I don't have any to use! I have on occasion wished I had a smaller set or perhaps some pin jaws, but I've always found a way to accomplish what I wanted without them. I used to want cole or longworth jaws for bowl making, but I've come around on my thinking there. I do just as well with a jam chuck and sandpaper.

Oh! Nice cheap additions you might want if you don't already have them... Jacob's chuck (Harbor Freight sells a cheap one that's just fine... about $15, I think), and a better live center for the tailstock (I use a cone center that I think is PSI branded). The center that comes with the 34706 works well, but doesn't give much clearance between the workpiece and the center.

[Frederick Skelly]

Hmmm... I've never used any other jaws on my SN2 (just the set it came with -- 50mm, I think), but then I don't have any to use! I have on occasion wished I had a smaller set or perhaps some pin jaws, but I've always found a way to accomplish what I wanted without them. I used to want cole or longworth jaws for bowl making, but I've come around on my thinking there. I do just as well with a jam chuck and sandpaper.

Oh! Nice cheap additions you might want if you don't already have them... Jacob's chuck (Harbor Freight sells a cheap one that's just fine... about $15, I think), and a better live center for the tailstock (I use a cone center that I think is PSI branded). The center that comes with the 34706 works well, but doesn't give much clearance between the workpiece and the center.

Thanks Aaron. After a lot of back and forth with myself, I ordered the G3 rather than the SN. It really was a toss up - get the heavier duty chuck I probably dont need for a couple years or spend the extra $30 on the 25mm jaws that I think I can use right away. Nothing scientific about the choice. More of a gut feel that was heavily influenced by Bill and Reed's posts above, pointing out that I'll ultimately want different sized chucks for different work. Since it's likely I'll eventually want a bigger chuck, I can get the SN2 as a follow on. I appreciate your first hand experience very much.

And you're right, the HF jacobs is VERY handy. I also agree about the tail stock - I need a better one - will check out PSI. Thanks again for all the tips on the 34706. Much appreciated.

Fred

[William C Rogers]

Aaron: Thanks for the input and advice. Much appreciated!

Reed, Prashun: You'll laugh at me (because I am too) but I'm not entirely sure what I want to turn. So I'm reluctant to get carried away. I think I want to do more small work for now and eventually try bowls. But the small work interests me the most right now - starting from blanks that are 1-2" square. Doing that between centers is certainly feasible (I can do bottle stoppers that way), but I think a chuck will make it a bit easier to do short, delicate spindles, etc. Plus my folks are nagging me for a Christmas list and I don't want ...... well, you know the kind of stuff you get when you dont give your folks better ideas. :)

Chucks I'm looking at are all "keyed" and I prefer to use inserts to mate to my lathe:
* Hurricane 100. Dovetail jaws. $179.
* Nova G3. 2" jaws are std with lots more available. $110 with insert @ Amazon. (Woodcraft has a package with chuck + 3 jaw sets for $150 + $20 more for insert.)
* Supernova 2. 3 jaw sets + insert. $212.
* Barracuda 2. 4 sets of jaws. $139.

I'm reading the archives here for reviews. All of them have fans. The chuck "sets" are well priced but I dont know that I'll ever use all those jaws. (I once bought a set of Narex Paring Chisels. I never use that 1 1/4" monster the set included. You understand.) I'm leaning toward just getting the G3 with an insert because it's a basic chuck that's expandable later. We'll see.......

Any thoughts or advice are very welcome. As I said, I'm searching the archives here too.

Thanks again everyone.
Fred

Fred. I kind of have some of each chuck you listed. Bottom line is I would opt for the G3 with the added jaws. Mainly because you are undecided about what you want to turn. Here is my opinion about the chucks you listed.

Nova G3: I just bought this chuck and it is very well made. I got the "Comet II" because it didn't need an insert. I has 1" 8 tip that fits my Delta and Jet mid. Haven't used it much,but like it a lot so far.
Super Nova 2: I don't have this chuck, but used one at our club. I didn't like near as well as the G3, but that may be me.
Barracuda 2: I have not had any problem with this chuck. Mine is about 7 years old. One thing to note is my Barracuda 2 has a square end wrench for tightening. It has a threaded insert adapter. You get 4 sets of jaws that makes it attractive price wise. Looking at Penn State they now seem to have a geared end wrench for this chuck. This is similar to the Barracuda 4 I have and don't like it. It wants to ride up and disengage when tightening.
Hurricane 100: I don't have the 100, but do have the 125 ( the 125 and Barracuda 4 are for my PM 90). The 125 uses a square end wrench for tightening. Well made and I like it for the PM 90. It has internal dovetail jaws. I bought this chuck because I really didn't like the geared tightening of the Barracuda 4. The Barracuda 4 just sees cole jaws anymore, but have the set jaws if ever needed. I have an adapter so I can use any of my chucks G3 and Barracuda 2 on the PM 90.
i also have a tommy bar Penn Sate chuck I keep small jaws on for the midi's.

My advice if I only have one chuck starting out it out it would be the G3 with the additional jaws. And if you don't use a piticular set of jaws you could always sell them here without a problem.

Bill

[Frederick Skelly]

Thanks Bill! I appreciate your advice. For me, the G3 just "feels like" a good place to start. I read everything in the archives here and a bunch of reviews elsewhere - only one guy seemed to have a beef with it. And the G3 is frequently described with words like "love it". Finally, the jaw interchangability across the whole line is a draw for me, since I dont know which direction I want to go yet.

Im looking forward to getting it. Now I have to talk my folks into letting me have it early! :D

Fred

[Aaron Craven]

...the jaw interchangability across the whole line is a draw for me, since I dont know which direction I want to go yet....

That's ultimately what sold me on the Teknatool brand as well. Even their new "infinity" quick change line has options for ensuring compatibility across lines (abeit using adapters).

I've never used the G3, but I think you should be very happy with it.

[Robert Henrickson]

Finally, the jaw interchangability across the whole line is a draw for me, since I dont know which direction I want to go yet.

Interchangeability is a definite plus. My first chuck was a G3, for a mini lathe. I have several now, which I still use, mostly for spindle or other small projects on my newer large lathes and the old old mini for onsite demos. I also have a SN2, due to the interchangeability, but also Oneway Stronghold which I bought early on and continue to use heavily.

[alan miller]

In my mind a heaver chuck will take a little longer to spin up but act as a flywheel and not slowing as easy on lesser powered lathes.What do you guys think?

[Aaron Craven]

In my mind a heaver chuck will take a little longer to spin up but act as a flywheel and not slowing as easy on lesser powered lathes.What do you guys think?

I would think this is going to be relative to the piece you're turning. If it's a very small spindle, this might make a difference, but for a moderately large bowl blank or something similar, I think it would take a very heavy chuck to make a significance difference relative to the weight of the work piece itself.

[William C Rogers]

I would think this is going to be relative to the piece you're turning. If it's a very small spindle, this might make a difference, but for a moderately large bowl blank or something similar, I think it would take a very heavy chuck to make a significance difference relative to the weight of the work piece itself.

The weight of the chuck does make a difference. I have just started using the G3 on my 1/2 hpmidi. Before I just used a smaller tommy bar chuck. I "had" a habit of slowing it down with the hand wheel when I turned off the power. With the G3 I did this and it unscrewed from the spindle. Now I let it slow down on its own.

[Aaron Craven]

The weight of the chuck does make a difference. I have just started using the G3 on my 1/2 hpmidi. Before I just used a smaller tommy bar chuck. I "had" a habit of slowing it down with the hand wheel when I turned off the power. With the G3 I did this and it unscrewed from the spindle. Now I let it slow down on its own.

That'll teach you! :D

It won't be a problem for the OP, though... one of the thinks I like least about the HF 34706 is that it does not have a hand wheel. There is a compatible part available from Jet (or maybe it's Grizzly...), but it doesn't have a through-hole for the knock-out bar.

[William C Rogers]

That'll teach you! :D

It won't be a problem for the OP, though... one of the thinks I like least about the HF 34706 is that it does not have a hand wheel. There is a compatible part available from Jet (or maybe it's Grizzly...), but it doesn't have a through-hole for the knock-out bar.

Yes, it did teach me. It's one of those "I won't do that again"
Would be a pain to take the hand wheel off every time you need to remove a drive center though.

[Peter Fabricius]

Can you just drill through the handwheel to get the access you need?
Peter F.

[Aaron Craven]

Can you just drill through the handwheel to get the access you need?
Peter F.

I've not had the opportunity to look at the part, so I'm not sure, but I think the outside diameter of the threads are probably very close to the diameter of the knock-out bar. In any case, I'm not willing to pay for the part on the off-chance I can modify it to do what I want.