Any experience with dry glue iron veneering?

[Robert Engel]

I was made aware of this technique by my veneer supplier.
Basically you apply a PVA glue to veneer and substrate, allow to dry for about 30 minutes, then use hot iron, and done.

Anyone use it?

Article is in Sept/Oct 94 FWW.

[Jamie Buxton]

Melting PVA does work. However, I found that the technique tends to pull apart veneer leaves that are taped together. So for me, the technique is mostly useful for small areas which will be covered with a single leaf of veneer. For bigger stuff I recommend vacuum bagging.

[Mike Henderson]

I agree with Jamie. I've done it but I've also had problems where it had bubbles. I also found that it works best if the glue is not completely dry and the iron actually drys out the glue as you work it. It also only works on very stable veneer - I've had failures with burls. A vacuum bag is much more reliable.

Mike

[larry senen]

very handy for edges and small one piece stuff as mentioned. advantages over iron on edge tape is it takes a higher temp to adhere ,so nice for kitchens . plus you can't always get iron on in the species you need.

[Erik Christensen]

I have never done an entire surface with that method but do use it for repairs... if the veneer bubbles after coming out of the vacuum bag I have had good success with moistening the bubble and using a veneer iron to flatten & re-glue...

[Nicholas Lingg]

I don't know about PVA but the pre-glued veneer works using this iron or one like it

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHZ17

[Ken Krawford]

I have also tried the PVA glue/iron technique but it failed. Everything looked good until I started applying finish. Then bubbles began to appear. I tried re-ironing them but it was like a game of "whack-a-mole". The table top is still sitting in my basement unloved and unused.

[Robert Engel]

Talked to my guy at the veneer supply he said he does not let glue completely dry before ironing & gets better result. He is using TB III, though and that could be a diff.

If you all are interested, Franklin has a good paper on this here (http://www.webherrera.com/blog/2009/04/19/titebonds-franklin-internationals-iron-on-instructions/9/).

According to the chart, using PVA (white) glue you should have indefinite reactivation time.

In this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TxUKc4JWBaI) TB II is used and allowed to completely dry.

A way to eliminate bleed through (which is my problem) is to apply a seal coat of shellac to the glue surface of the veneer before the PVA.

[Marc Burt]

I too can't keep seams together with this method.

[Peter Quinn]

I've used it for small areas, curved rails, a few other odd shapes and for repair purposes, never large scale panel work. You are right on the edge of burning on type 2 & 3 glues, I've sanded into scorch marks in the glue before...not fun. So it works, but not ideal in all circumstances. I worked in a shop with a hot press, 7 minutes from application of wet glue to dead flat cured panel ready to work, that works great but not possible to emulate in a small shop with hand held iron.

[Chris Fournier]

I have found that the heat dries the veneer out to zero MC and causes it to shrink. I've played with the heat and had better results but I only use it when it is absolutely necessary. Vacuum bagging is my go to for reliable and repeatable results.