Natural Finish for Quartersawn white oak

[Ryan Cunningham]

I am getting ready to construct a new kitchen for my personal residence using quartersawn white oak. I'm wanting to use a natural finish but really want the rays to pop. I don't want to darken the wood. I'm not building mission-style/ inspired cabinetry. Just looking for an impressive/effective pop in a natural finish. I haven't really done too much finishing of quartersawn white oak. So, looking around online I found lots of good ideas when going for a mission-style look (fuming, various dye/stain techniques, etc). But not so much for a natural finish. I did run across the link below, however, which is pretty much exactly what I want:

http://www.woodworkerssource.com/blog/woodworking-101/tips-tricks/how-to-finish-quarter-sawn-white-oak-so-the-figure-pops/

The first method in the article is the one I'm referring to. In summary, they recommend:

-1 coat Deftoil Danish Oil (i.e. oil varnish blend), wetsanding after application. This is for the pop i'm looking for.
-Top coat with whatever. in the article they use sanding sealer (didn't specifically say what) and then lacquer. In my case I'd use 2-3 coats of Satin poly (I usually use the Zar fast dry). I've used this poly in the past in kitchen/bathroom applications and it has been effective.

Only problem is Deftoil Danish Oil appears to be discontinued. So, I guess I'm looking for suggestions for something that will really pop. Keeping in mind that I do want to topcoat with the satin poly. Thanks everybody!

[Stan Calow]

Ryan Watco Danish Oil should be easy to find. Don't know if it would look the same.

[Jim Becker]

Any oil or oil based finish can help with that "pop". One can also use a similar technique that's often used with figured maple which is to dye the wood and sand it back, sometimes multiple times, to darken the figure without darkening the overall wood. My recommendation is that you take some scrap from the same material you're building your project(s) with and do a bunch of test finishing regimens, carefully recording the steps and products for each. From there, you can choose the result you like the best and since you have it documented, you should be able to duplicate it on the real project.

[Wayne Lomman]

I agree with Jim. Do testing until you get what you want. It's the only way to go. Cheers

[Robin Frierson]

Your are not gonna get as much "pop" of the flake with a natural type of finish. The oil will help but to really get the most pop for your buck, you need to add color with dye....the rays and the wood absorb the dye differently so they pop more in my experience with a dye. But I have some natural finished QSWO and it looks fine with oil and top coat. But the mission finish from Jeff Jewitt has more spectacular rays.

[Robert Engel]

I tested several oils on a project and found Watco Danish Oil Walnut looked best to me.

348567

[Rob Luter]

I'll second (third?) the suggestion to use Watco Danish Oil. It's a nice finish that winds up in the wood as opposed to on the wood. I'm afraid it won't bring out much contrast in the ray flake though. I might suggest using a Danish oil with a little color in it, or using a mild aniline dye prior to the oil.

I used clear oil on this little box, but I fumed it for a bit with ammonia first. Probably not practical for cabinet doors and face frames.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2947/15226667349_c4cac1902a_b.jpg

[Prashun Patel]

If you wish to topcoat with polyurethane, there's no reason to use Danish oil. I would focus instead on sanding thoroughly and to a higher grit than you normally might - like to 600. Then wipe down the pieces with Boiled Linseed for color, and after thoroughly drying, topcoat with your poly.

[Ryan Cunningham]

I want to thank everyone for all of your suggestions (and pictures). A lot to think about. Looks like this weekend is going to be spent doing some finish experimentation :)

I think I'll try the following to start and see if I can come up with something i like:

1. Natural Watco then topcoat

2. Walnut Watco then topcoat. That picture that Robert posted doesn't seem to impart too much color and I like the ray highlights.

3. Sand to 600, BLO, topcoat.

These are within my comfortability level in terms of similar finishes I've used. I haven't done too much with dyes, although I'm game to try. But if one of the 3 above looks good I'll probably go with that. Thanks again!

[Robin Frierson]

One more suggestion, I would not flood the oak with oil. It's an open pore wood and will sometimes keep leaking oil back up if you flood it with lots of BLO. Had good luck just using a small amount of oil and rubbing it in briskly then wiping it off.

[kevin st john]

Nice work. Is the Danish Oil all that you put on?