Please teach me about clamps

[Dave Macy]

Can someone please school me on clamps? I recently bought a bunch only to find out I made a big mistake. I bought some bessey econo clamps. But now that I've been having some glue up problems I keep hearing people talk about parallel clamps. Do they make a big difference? I need some 24"or 30" clamps. I get by without bigger for now, so does anyone have a recommendation on how to find some at a decent price for someone just getting into woodworking? Thanks

[Ken Platt]

Dave, if you'll post what exactly you are gluing up, and what the problems are, folks can assist more. I'm guessing your clamps are what is called the "F" style, and you are trying to glue up panels? If so, then yes, parallel clamps, or at least something with a bigger jaw, would serve you better. If you have the $$$, absolutely go for the parallel clamps (the parallel, in case you didn't know, refers to the jaw maintaining a parallel orientation during clamping so that panels tend to stay flat.) A less expensive bar clamp for panel glue up might be something like the Dubuque aluminum bar clamp. I have a bunch of very similar, but no longer made, Jorgensens which I use all the time and like a lot. The Dubuque's seem to be well reviewed, and I was thinking of getting a few myself just because I like that style so much (and I have quite a few parallel clamps). Best price I've found so far on those is at Coastal Tools, BTW.

Hope this helps.

Ken

[Dave Cav]

Go to Harbor Freight and get some 3/4" pipe clamp ends. Then go to a junk yard and get some scrap 3/4" pipe and have the ends threaded at Home Depot. If you absolutely can't find any scrap pipe, get a 10 foot piece of 3/4" pipe from Home Depot, have them cut it into thirds and thread one end of each. I have over 70 pipe clamps from 30" to six feet long, with many different brands of ends. The H.F. ends aren't as nicely finished as a lot of them but they seem to work fine.

[glenn bradley]

You'll get a lot of responses on this as folks have varied opinions. I am definitely in the parallel clamp camp.

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I use Bessey K-body clamps for larger things and Bessey UniKlamps for case work. I do have a plethora of F-style clamps but, use them where they make sense which is not always everywhere.

At 24 and 30 inches you are looking for full sized parallel clamps. With the demise of the Bessey K-body style the new Revo offering can give folks sticker shock. If you are indeed gluing up panels then good news; aluminum bar clamps from Harbor Freight can be stiffened up (http://www.harborfreight.com/36-in-aluminum-bar-clamp-60539.html)with a wooden insert (or used without at low pressures) and go on sale for something like $10 each. A little time can make them perform like their $30 better cousins (http://www.leevalley.com/us/HARDWARE/page.aspx?p=70618&cat=1,43838).

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Don't get me wrong the Debuque or the Rockler Sure Foot version (http://www.rockler.com/surefoot-aluminum-bar-clamps)s are the bomb but, we can't always dump a large chunk of cash right off. My practice was to decide on a maker and style of clamp and then take advantage of any sales I stumbled across as time went by. When I finally got to where I wasn't running out of clamps during glue-ups, I stopped . . . well slowed down anyway ;-)

What you do and how you do it will drive your needs but, I use lots of Bessey mighty-minis for small jobs; holding squaring jigs, trim, curves, etc. I use a lot of Bessey UniKlamps; definitely my most used clamp type. I have a fair number of parallel clamps (K-body) in 24", 31" and 50" and then some Jet (meh!), Baily (surprisingly good) and so forth. Like the HF aluminum bar clamps pictured above, I have a random collection of other specialty clamps, pipe clamps, hand screws, frame and strap clamps and all that.



Some or all of this may be useless to you. Only time and your own path will tell what clamping devices and fixtures truly have value for you. Good luck.

[Frederick Skelly]

I have a bunch of F-body clamps in various sizes. I use them for everything.

I bought a set of 4 parallel clamps this time last year - bought them right - but havent even used them. The F-bodies do what I need. I look forward to usingbthe parallel clamps when the right job for them comes along!

Fred

[Dave Lehnert]

Dont overlook pipe clamps. What we all used before K body type clamps.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/BESSEY-H-Style-Pipe-Clamp-Fixture-Set-for-3-4-in-Black-Pipe-BPC-H34/204986131

[John Lankers]

I don't think you made a mistake buying these clamps, I own at least 30 or 40 of the light duty Bessey clamps and a bunch of Jorgensen clamps. For panel glue up's I use 3/4" Bessey pipe clamps (the ones with the 'claw foot') . I have pipes ranging from 18" to 4' and use connectors if I need longer clamps.
I would love to buy Bessey K Body parallel clamps but can't justify the cost. Btw. Don't waste your money on blue parallel clamps.

[mreza Salav]

Every clamp has its uses. The clamps I most use are my parallel clamp, as they help a lot in glue-ups of panels and the like. Pipe clamps are cheaper alternative but they can put a lot more pressure too (I have mostly 4'+ and some 10' pipe clamps). C-clamps can also come hand in various places. F-clamps are good too but not for panel glue-ups. Save your money and buy parallel clamps (and good quality ones).

[Matt Day]

When I started woodworking about 12 years ago when I was 25, I started with an inexpensive set of Colombian F clamps from Amazon (no longer sold). I added clamps on the cheap as I went, such as the Rockler sure foot for big glue ups. My first parallel clamps were discontinued yellow ones (Stanley's?) from Big Lots. Since then I've kept an eye out at garage sales and auctions for clamps and added Jorgensen f clamps, and Bessy K bodies. I bought about 12 Jet parallels during their 50% off Black Friday sale last year and the year before. Just picked up a couple Bessy's and Woodcraft parallel clamps for $5 each at a garage sale.

What I'm saying is buy what you need for the project, and you can afford. You don't need parallel clamps to make nice stuff. Parallel clamps are sweet but expensive, and if you're just starting out you probably can spend you're money in more worthy areas.

[Ted Prinz]

Lots of good responses and info on this one. Personally I have all kinds of clamps and I use different ones all the time. I agree 100% with those who have said to purchase what you need when you need it or grab a deal at a garage sale, etc.

About the only things I'll add are to - 1) Be sure to work up a storage/clamp management plan. And - 2) the parallel clamps have a place in the shop. But they aren't perfect and they can be HEAVY. Moving a big panel around after clamping up with them can be a challenge.

[Robert Engel]

I like what DaveCav ^ said.

Starting out, I definitely think pipe clamps are the way to go. I used nothing but pipe clamps for years quite successfully. The only draw back to them they do not clamp parallel so panel glue up require some technique. Alternating clamps and/or using cauls are a must (no big deal). And you have to make very sure the glue line does not contact the pipe.

One huge advantage to pipe clamps other than economy is you can put together a clamp as long as you need, using pipe couplers.

Don't poo poo those HF aluminum bar clamps. They are plenty strong enough for panel glue ups but they tend to bow quite a bit. You have to use a bunch of them that's all. Some put a length of hardwood inside the bar to increase the strength.

Aside from these, you will need a good assortment of F clamps. You need 12", 6" and 4" I would say at least 8 of each. You can often find Bessey sets on sale at Home Depot this time of year. I also have a few cheap Pittsburgh F clamps from HF that work ok.

I think a set of Irwin quick clamps are also very handy when trying to clamp with one hand.

Once you get into a project and find you need more clamps that is the time to buy more.

[Greg Hines, MD]

You should also search here for making cauls for your clamps. They can help smooth out some of the problems with cheaper F-style clamps. The old adage is that you can never have too many clamps. A corollary to that is that you never throw them away either. It is a virtual guarantee that as soon as you do, you need just one more for your project.

Doc

[Wes Ramsey]

I don't have much clamp advice, but maybe a bit of wisdom a friendly woodworker shared with me several years ago might help. Keep a list of shop needs and set aside a bit of money here and there as you get it and buy those tools when you come across a deal you can't pass up. You might find a great buy on new clamps next year or a steal on a used bandsaw or jointer that you've been eyeing that you may not NEED right now, but you know you will later. Waiting to buy until you need something will usually run you close to full price, but if you have money already set aside when a deal appears you can jump on it. I've watched some killer deals pass me by when I just didn't have the money and ended up paying much more later when I really needed it.

This approach has other benefits - when you buy a new tool in the middle of a project because you need it right then you have to stop work to set it up and learn how to use it. If you buy it when the need isn't immediate you can do all that between projects. You also get to be more picky when buying used gear - if the deal or the tool isn't just right you can pass it up without regret.

[Sam Murdoch]

Clamping technique is important too. Lots of new woodworkers tend to tighten their clamps with as much pressure as they can muster. Over clamping is not useful - squeezes out too much glue and very often leads to misshapen projects.

Make certain your joints are fitted properly so that the clamps need ONLY HOLD the boards together rather than pulling them into submission.

With pipe clamps and board glue ups as with table tops - it is best to alternate your clamps from one face to the other to equalize the pull of the clamps. Alternatively use cauls (do a google on cauls if this is a new term). The cauls are very useful to maintaining flat glue ups.

My typical technique, using Bessey parallel clamps, is to stand my table top/shelf type glue ups on edge. I alternate my clamps apprroximately 12" apart and check the entire assembly for flat. Loosen my clamps and retighten as needed to generate flat and or add front to back cauls, that I made, in circumstances that require more flattening. This method allows me to set one clamped up assembly aside (on the floor even) to allow room on the bench to do more glue ups. I really love the Bessey parallel clamps with the flat clamp heads for this reason. Mine were made in WEST GERMANY - likely no longer available :rolleyes:. I have some made by Gross Stabil too. Those don't operate as smoothly as the Besseys but they are useful nonetheless.

[Dennis Peacock]

I don't have much clamp advice, but maybe a bit of wisdom a friendly woodworker shared with me several years ago might help. Keep a list of shop needs and set aside a bit of money here and there as you get it and buy those tools when you come across a deal you can't pass up. You might find a great buy on new clamps next year or a steal on a used bandsaw or jointer that you've been eyeing that you may not NEED right now, but you know you will later. Waiting to buy until you need something will usually run you close to full price, but if you have money already set aside when a deal appears you can jump on it. I've watched some killer deals pass me by when I just didn't have the money and ended up paying much more later when I really needed it.

This approach has other benefits - when you buy a new tool in the middle of a project because you need it right then you have to stop work to set it up and learn how to use it. If you buy it when the need isn't immediate you can do all that between projects. You also get to be more picky when buying used gear - if the deal or the tool isn't just right you can pass it up without regret.

I agree with Wes here...especially if you are wanting to save money over the long haul. :)

[Jim Becker]

Simple pipe clamps, with or without the "foot" option are a good way to economically get a bunch of clamps in the shop swiftly and even if you get obsessed with parallel clamps over time (like many of us have...) they still come in handy when you need "something longer" or "something unique" for a particular projects. In other words, they are a good investment over time, even if they get infrequent use down the road. Pipe clamps will exert all the pressure you need. You just need to measure more carefully to insure things are clamping up true because that is less inherent in the clamp like it is with the considerably more expensive parallel clamps. (where you still need to measure "to be sure" anyway)

You'll also want a variety of different kinds of clamps for flexibility...never less than two of a particular type. For example, I have four "quick clamps" with about a 8" capacity that are literally indispensable for so many things during both milling and assembly. I also have several pairs of different size "F" clamps that "do what they do" very well when they are the right size and shape for what's needed to be clamped. I have a bunch of really small "F" clamps for general utility. And some spring clamps for one-handed needs. Try to pick up stuff like this when there's a sale or promotion because you will use them and you'll save money and time having things in the shop, rather than having to run out in the middle of something and pay full price due to the "emergency".

You can never have too many clamps... ;)

[Lee Schierer]

I use pipe clamps exclusively and have few if any problems. The trick is to alternate your clamps on each side of the panel you are gluing up and tighten them in stages. Get your boards lined up and held with clamps that are snug. Once you are happy with the glue up give them another crank each in sequence. If the panel starts bowing up loosen the bottom clamps slightly and tighten the ones on top. You don't need to crush the wood to get a good joint if your edge preparation if your edges have been trued and squared properly. If the board don't fit tight together with light hand pressure, the joint will likely fail after the clamps are removed, usually about a week after you put the finish on.

[Dave Macy]

The Dubuque's seem to be well reviewed, and I was thinking of getting a few myself just because I like that style so much (and I have quite a few parallel clamps). Best price I've found so far on those is at Coastal Tools, BTW.
Ken

Ended up picking some up and tonight was the first time I had a chance to use them. I like them a lot, thanks. Felt good to have something go right after spending more money on my darn bs. I think I used too much glue though.
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[Matt Day]

Good to hear. Glue joint looks okay to me - unless there are puddles of glue underneath.

[John Lankers]

Ended up picking some up and tonight was the first time I had a chance to use them. I like them a lot, thanks. Felt good to have something go right after spending more money on my darn bs. I think I used too much glue though.
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This looks like perfect glue squeeze out to me, I wouldn't want anything less (or more).
You could try and put thin strips of plastic (1/8" think puck board for example) between the clamps and your project next time to keep the clamps clean and keep them from touching the actual glue line, also some metals can react with the glue and stain the wood.

[Lee Schierer]

Your squeeze out is a bit heavy IMO, but not overly excessive. Scrape that glue off with a paint scraper before it completely cures between the clamps and it will save you a lot of work sanding. Buy a roll of wax paper and place it over (under) your clamps if you are worried about getting glue on them. Be careful when gluing thin pieces together as it is easy to apply too much pressure and bow the wood up, even to the point where it will pop right out of the clamps. Also place sacrificial pieces of wood between the clamp faces and the edges of your finished work to prevent indentations in your finished edges. I keep thin strips I rip off panels when sizing them for this purpose.

[Bruce Page]

This looks like perfect glue squeeze out to me, I wouldn't want anything less (or more).
You could try and put thin strips of plastic (1/8" think puck board for example) between the clamps and your project next time to keep the clamps clean and keep them from touching the actual glue line, also some metals can react with the glue and stain the wood.
That looks like a good squeeze out to me as well. I use good ol' wax paper to protect the clamps from drips. I let the excess glue set up a bit and use a paint scraper to remove.

[Dave Macy]

Your squeeze out is a bit heavy IMO, but not overly excessive. Scrape that glue off with a paint scraper before it completely cures between the clamps and it will save you a lot of work sanding. Buy a roll of wax paper and place it over (under) your clamps if you are worried about getting glue on them. Be careful when gluing thin pieces together as it is easy to apply too much pressure and bow the wood up, even to the point where it will pop right out of the clamps. Also place sacrificial pieces of wood between the clamp faces and the edges of your finished work to prevent indentations in your finished edges. I keep thin strips I rip off panels when sizing them for this purpose.

Will do thanks

[Van Huskey]

Keep in mind too much glue only means more cleanup work, too little means a possibly weak joint, if you err, err on the side of too much. My only concern is each end looks a little "under glued". This could also be from less clamping pressure at the ends, I would have placed the outside clamps a tad closer to the ends, especially the clamp at the bottom of the picture. Clamping force spreads out like a V from the point of the clamp. As you develop more skills you can investigate spring joints which not everyone uses but I find they help in equalizing clamping force.

[jack duren]

I use a lot of these, but rarely a parallel...

[jack duren]

I found the 4" Milwaukee to be useless but the 2" should be fine349247
I found the Bessey spring clamp to be great but wish I could get them in a metal version349248
I have been tempted to buy a few of the of the Bessey parallels from Amazon for $17.99 but for torsion boxes349249

[Jim Becker]

I have been tempted to buy a few of the of the Bessey parallels from Amazon for $17.99 but for torsion boxes349249

These appear to be the light duty UniClamps which are not the "fully parallel" design. That said, I have a few and they come in handy because of the larger, flat faces and I prefer them to F-clamps for that reason for general clamping. I wish they came in more sizes in that respect.

[Bill Adamsen]

Those are nice looking clamps. I don't have any parallel clamps so I typically have to mount clamps on both sides of a panel to get a balanced glue-up. As others have mentioned, consider making cauls especially for thinner edging. Someone mentioned that you can rarely have too many clamps and I'd agree. I will say however that quality too is important. I was working with someone the other day and both of us had malleable cast bar clamps, and his made by Bessey (the TGJ series?) were much nicer than mine which at the time they were made were also a USA made product.

My favorite clamps are those you can make. There are lots of plans on the web for specialized boat building clamps some of which have good uses in cabinet and furniture building. One of my favorites was detailed by Harry Bryan in the Sept./Oct. 2014 issue of Wooden Boat. A deep-reach clamp, the fabricator can adjust both reach and length for his own needs. I made a number of them and plan on making more. There are other boat clamps worth looking at ... such as the specialized lapstrake clamp which is easy and inexpensive to make as well.

[glenn bradley]

I found the 4" Milwaukee to be useless but the 2" should be fine349247

This style/format proved worthless to me regardless of size.


I found the Bessey spring clamp to be great but wish I could get them in a metal version349248

I prefer these over the metal ones but, have a grip of both, The metal ones come into play when more force is required.


I have been tempted to buy a few of the of the Bessey parallels from Amazon for $17.99 but for torsion boxes349249

My most used clamp.

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[Mike Manning]

Glenn, Is there a reason for storing your clamps wide open as these are? This summer I bought 8 of the Bessey parallel clamps locally from a fellow. I've got mine stored closed just leaning against a shop wall. I don't have a lot of experience with clamping thus far.

[glenn bradley]

Glenn, Is there a reason for storing your clamps wide open as these are? This summer I bought 8 of the Bessey parallel clamps locally from a fellow. I've got mine stored closed just leaning against a shop wall. I don't have a lot of experience with clamping thus far.

No real science to it. It just allows the racks I make to hold almost any clamp that I have. I don't really think about it, I just remove the clamp from whatever I'm clamping it hanging on the rack. The UniKlamps move so easily the handles just end up at the bottom more often than not.

[Jim Becker]

Glenn, Is there a reason for storing your clamps wide open as these are? This summer I bought 8 of the Bessey parallel clamps locally from a fellow. I've got mine stored closed just leaning against a shop wall. I don't have a lot of experience with clamping thus far.

I store my clamps wide open, too. Why? Because it means they are ready to use to max capacity and it's "easier" to close them than open them when one is doing something with two hands that really requires three hands. :)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v646/a-j-adopt/Woodworking/IMG_2943_zps1b912093.jpg

[Mike Manning]

Thanks Glenn & Jim.

[Greg Hines, MD]

Most people store clamps like that, as it leaves the heavy end down, and makes it easy to close them. There is also the fact that when Norm Abram built his clamp rack, that is how he did it too.

Doc