Best methods to cut plywood without a table saw

[Mike Manning]

Hey Guys. Wanted to ask your advice for my son. He does hand painted signs here in Austin and he wants a guide for his circular saw. I have an older aluminum Swanson guide I picked up for $10 recently which I've never used. One of those price is right, probably have a need in the future buys. In checking out some options for him like Kreg's saw guide as well as just about any other option I could find like Swanson, Empire, etc there aren't a lot of great choices that don't have issues with poor quality of parts (Kreg guide) or deflection of the guides (all the others). I'm thinking the best bet may just be to have a 12-18" 8' piece of plywood with a good straight edge that he uses as his guide. I could cut that for him on my table saw. Wondering what you guys without table saws have used successfully in the past. I'm also thinking that maybe I could pick him up an older used table saw just for ripping sheet stock. Do the fences on these small worksite saws stay parallel throughout the cut in your experiences? I could pick 'em something like this for less than $100 on CL I'm sure. As always, your help is greatly appreciated!

[Steve Eure]

Mike, I have a small shop crammed with a large amount of power tools. Having a good table saw is a must for me, but space is limited. I cut my ply with a bora guide that works well for me. I would love to have a track saw, but price dictates otherwise. In my opinion, you need a lot of real estate to properly and safely cut large sheets of ply. Infeed and outfeed tables are a must. Also useful is some way to man handle and lift them to the saw.
Personally speaking, I would go the track saw route, but again thats my opinion.

[Frederick Skelly]

My first thought is "buy him a tracksaw". Seems like the Makita is under $400.

Guides? I use a piece of 3/4" plywood clamped to whatever I am cutting. Results are good but not perfect.

Worksite tablesaws. I had a delta portable tablesaw, direct drive. Its fence wasnt too good. So I'd stay away from those. But there was a thread here recently that cited a dewalt portable that works quite well.

Fred

[Bruce Wrenn]

My go to guide is a piece of 1/4" plywood ripped to about 12" wide. Fasten a 3" wide piece of 1/2 - 3/4" plywood to it so the saw will just rip off one edge of quarter inch plywood. Rip edge off using circular saw, then take guide to table saw and rip other side so guide is 10" wide. Ripped edge is exactly where saw will cut. By ripping to ten inches wide, I can measure to other side of guide, by subtracting 10" from desired measurement. I have 3', 5' and 8' guides made this way. Use Irwin quick clamps to hold it in place. I built a saw bench that uses folding banquet table legs, 3/4" plywood rails (3 1/2" tall) and 2X4 cross members. It's just under 7 feet long so it will set flat in trailer. Three feet wide. 2 X 4's are screwed through rails to allow for replacement. They are laid flat with screws being one inch below top. This way saw won't hit them.

[Izzy Charo]

Grizzly track saw with guide rail is under $300. Could upgrade the blade and improve the cut further. Mark Spagnulo compared this to the Festool track saw on his website last year (I think)..not a Festool, but pretty close given the price..
Just my 2 cents.

[william watts]

A shop made guide would work very well for cutting plywood for signs. Build it as Bruce describes, but make it wide enough that the clamps will not interfere with the travel of the saw. You can align the guide with a square or to a pencil line. I use a shop made table with a plywood top to lay the work on for the cut. It's difficult to balance a sheet ply on a job site saw. Maybe somebody will be along to provide a link.

Bill

[John Lankers]

For sheet good (unless you have a sliding table saw) bring the tool to the wood and not the wood to the tool.
I did a quick 'Google Image' search for 'circular saw guide' which brought up a whole lot of shop built and commercial setups and jigs, even a very interesting looking shop built vertical panel saw.
You could also look at the LeeValley 'EZ Smart Track Saw System' and 'EZ Smart Saw Base & Edge Guide', I have not seen it in action though.
It really depends on how much money you want to spend.

[John T Barker]

If you own some sort of straight edges the length of your cut I would mark the cut, cut close with a hand held jigsaw and then use a router and the straight edge to give yourself a good clean and straight final edge.

[Ken Kortge]

I'll put in another high recommendation for using a track saw. I've also used the EZ Smart Track Saw System - since 2008. If you already have a circular saw - just about any circular saw - you can get started using the EZ Smart Track Saw System for $200. It comes with a 64" heavy duty aluminum rail, a EZ Smart Base that you fasten to your own circular saw (I installed one just yesterday - VERY easy and accurate. I'd suggest using a self-centering drill bit or set punch to ensure accurately placed holes), and two EZ Smart Clamps that ensure dead nuts accurate cuts. Its a relatively small business based in the U.S., if that matters to you. With the base applied you can still use the saw off-track, but trust me - you won't want to.


This system provides zero clearance features that provide very clean cuts on BOTH sides of the kerf! If you look around on their web site you'll see that they have lots of related accesories too. Also go to Youtube.com and search using "Eurekazone". You'll find several nice videos that show its features, how to install the EZ Smart Base, and more.


http://www.eurekazone.com/Circular_s...l_p/ezts64.htm


(BTW, not at all connected to Eurekazone at all --- just a very happy customer)


Ken K.

[Scott Brader]

I use a method similar to what several others have already said. I can't easily get full sheets of plywood down to my shop, so I break them down in the garage first. I throw a piece of cheap 2" foam insulation down as a backer and then clamp a straight edge to use as a guide for my circular saw. Set the blade depth to just cut into the foam and cut away. The foam under the whole sheet supports both pieces as it's cut through. I've used the same foam board for years. It is scored like crazy, but still works great. I'll just replace it at some point with another piece of foam when it gets too flimsy from all of the scores on both sides.

I learned about making an effective guide the hard way when I cut some plywood using just a board clamped on the wood. The saw motor rode up on the board a bit which left a slightly beveled cut. That was a wasted sheet... Using a homemade guide like others have mentioned works very well. Someone had put up a "plan" for a two sided guide made with a long, straight (both sides) board mounted onto a piece of hardboard. One side is trimmed with the circular saw to be used as a guide for that and the other side is trimmed with the router to be used as a guide for that. It makes it easy, because you clamp the guide directly on the line without having to compensate for the distance from the saw blade to the fence/guide.

Scott

[glenn bradley]

I use a Swanson guide and just clamp a piece of scrap for a flex-stopper about mid way along the path.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I bit the bullet and bought a Festool TS55eq after having my jobsite saw get jammed with a 4x8 sheet mid cut and tip over on me.
Not fun.

I tried the shop made guide and ruined the first sheet of plywood I tried it on.I chalked that up to a crummy Ryobi saw.

After looking t the prices of decent circular saws, I decided it wasn't all that much more to just get it over with and buy the Festool.

[Jon Endres]

Also a very happy EZ Smart/Eurekazone user. I have less than $200 into my EZ smart system, I bought it in 2005 or 2006 and break down every sheet of plywood that runs through my shop. Also use it for straightlining live edge lumber. Any track saw on the market will do for cutting plywood sign pieces.

[Robert Engel]

A simple straight edge as you describe will work quite well for sign making.

I use a circ saw and home made guide with a 40 tooth Diablo blade.

An older used TS is certainly an option, but I wouldn't use a jobsite saw the fence is too short. You could set it up with an auxiliary table to the left side.

If he can justify the expense for his business, then a track saw seems the best most efficient way IMO.

[Bruce Wrenn]

No matter how you make or buy your cutting guide, get a circular saw that you adjust the edge of the base parallel to the blade. I use an OLD B&D SuperSawcat. Dewalt's top of the line circular saw replaced it and has same feature.

[Bradley Gray]

If this is for everyday use in one location, I would consider a vertical panel saw.

[Adam Herman]

If space is not a concern, a panel saw is absolutely the best, most versatile tool for this work.

if space is a concern I would get a track saw. the Griz. is onsale today for $99 + you need to buy a track or 2. You can get the whole setup for under $200. Its very tempting. I have a good tablesaw but breaking down sheet goods is always a pain.

[Charles P. Wright]

I used the 1/4" plywood with a 1x3 guide for about 10 years. It is pretty good, but the one disadvantage I found was that if you're not careful, you can drift away from the fence. Depending on how much space you have to work in, if it's in the middle of the sheet, etc that is more likely and you'll ruin the offcut (which you probably want for another component).

I bought the Festool and it prevents that kind of mistake, because the track stops it in both directions.

[Scott Brader]

I bought the Festool and it prevents that kind of mistake, because the track stops it in both directions.

You're right that I have to be extra careful to maintain pressure against the guide when using my shop built guide, but in my case, I just don't break down enough plywood to warrant a track saw. It sounds like a good option for the OP's needs, though.

Scott

[Ben Rivel]

Another vote for a track saw here.

[johnny means]

If this endeavor is profitable, I can't see any reason not to ditch the construction equipment and get a good tracksaw. Of course I'm biased toward the Festool, proven reliability, long term support and all. I could move with a friends pick up truck, but would you make due with a pickup truck if you were getting into the moving business.

[Phillip Gregory]

I use a standard Milwaukee circular saw that I run against a 4 foot aluminum ruler clamped onto the plywood to cut sheet goods. I use a 40 tooth Diablo blade that cost me less than $20 to do the cutting. My circular saw is pretty square to its shoe so it cuts at least as accurately as the plywood edges come from the factory. A tracksaw would be simpler, and a panel saw simpler yet, but a track saw and a panel saw essentially ARE circular saws mounted to either a straightedge or a rack, so I don't really see myself as gaining a bunch. If you really want super accuracy, get a beam saw.

[lowell holmes]

A straight 1x4 clamped to the plywood as a guide works for me.

[Rick Moyer]

Probably isn't the answer you're looking for, but I made something very much like this:

https://goo.gl/images/5q8XP5

One can easily make they're own straight edge to work with their particular saw, too.
I'd love a track saw but don't cut enough sheet goods to justify it right now.

edit: I realize you asked about a guide, but this table facilitates cutting sheet goods. My homemade guide is similar to the one shown. If you make a guide for him, be sure there is enough clearance for adjustments to the saw and depth of cuts, i.e., keep it shallow.

[Warren Wilson]

Lots of good advice -- some pointing this way: a technique I've known a lot of guys to use instead of buying a tracksaw. This is just an example of a well-known approach, but it works well: certainly well enough for cutting sheet goods into sign boards.

The other great advice IMHO (mentioned by Scott) is to use a piece of rigid foam insulation under the cut to help reduce splintering while supporting the workpiece evenly to reduce the chance of a kickback, and making a nice smooth cut easier to perform.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=N5R_XPYl5kE

[rudy de haas]

Lots of people here telling you to use a track saw and that seems like good advice. One thing I'd like to mention: do no use a jobsite contractor type saw for this unless you have it solidly installed in a table large enough to hold two sheets (the thing before and after cutting.) These things are too light and the tables are too small: you can get away with it a few times, perhaps even many times - but, sooner or later, you're going to twist the plywood into the blade and have the whole mess try to cartwheel away from you.

[Ken Kortge]

No matter how you make or buy your cutting guide, get a circular saw that you adjust the edge of the base parallel to the blade. I use an OLD B&D SuperSawcat. Dewalt's top of the line circular saw replaced it and has same feature.

Good point! I'll mention that Eurekazone's EZ Smart Base is installed relative to the blade, not relative to the original base.


It has four "fingers" molded into the EZ Smart Base. You attach the base so that the fingers touch the side of the blade so the alignment is perfect (Make sure the blade is perfectly set at 90 degrees first!). The easiest way to do that initially is using double-sided tape. Then use a self-centering drill to accurately position drilled holes used to insert bolts that permanently attach the base.


Once the base is fastened you just snap the fingers off. Its really a brilliant sure-fire system.

[Jim Dwight]

I used to use my Milwaukee circular saw and a home made guide out of 5mm luan plywood. It worked pretty well for rough sizing but didn't make finished cuts, even with a 40 tooth blade. I don't know if it was the quality of the blade or the bearings for the arbor aren't great. But it was OK when I had a table saw with 60 inch rip capacity to make the finished cut (with infeed and outfeed support if the piece was big). But then I got my DeWalt track saw. No more big pieces of anything on the table saw. Took off the extension rails, 24 inches rip capacity is fine. Finished cuts right off the track saw. Put the edge of the track on the mark (or use a track setting jig) and know your cut will be right where you set the track. Every time. You don't have to push the saw into the home made guide. It's probably my most expensive tool but I wouldn't go back. Especially since I am not getting younger, not having to man handle sheets of 3/4 through the table saw is really the way to go.

I have seen all the reviews on the Grizzly and I don't see anything that would make it unacceptable. But if he is going to use it a lot, it probably makes sense to get the Makita, DeWalt or possibly the Festool. I am sure the Festool is nice but it's close to twice as much with equivalent tracks and it's hard for me to believe it's twice the saw as my DeWalt. The Makita lacks the riving knife the Festool and DeWalt has and only the DeWalt has an anti-kickback device. The DeWalt also has a bigger motor than the Festool. Safer, more powerful... Any track saw is a great way to break down plywood - or cut large pieces of hardwood. Track saws are not easy to use on small pieces but for anything large, they work great. I use a router attachment on mine too - nice way to make long dados.

[Mike Manning]

I use a Swanson guide and just clamp a piece of scrap for a flex-stopper about mid way along the path.

As I mentioned I have a used Swanson guide I recently bought. I'd thought putting a piece of scrap in the middle might stop the deflection and allow this to be a decent option for my son. We'll try that out and see how it works.

[Ole Anderson]

+1 on the Grizzly track saw. Got one, use it a lot as a hobbyist.

[Curt Harms]

I have a shop made guide - aluminum fence glued to 1/4" masonite. I think a key is using a Porter Cable 314 trim saw on it. The saw is sorta underpowered for frequent use but the base is quite a bit longer than it is wide. Circular saws can be the opposite - wider than it is long. The little P-C saw tracks very nicely along the aluminum fence, no tendency to cock or move away from the fence. Having said that, the Griz track saw would be pretty tempting for not-too-heavy use.

[Jay Nossen]

As others have said already, circular saw guide would be the way to go. Here's a quick "How To": http://www.finehomebuilding.com/2010/11/11/make-a-saw-guide-for-faster-cleaner-cuts

I have a 4x8 work table and two sheets of 2'x8'x1/2" rigid foam that I put under the ply to protect the table.

[Curt Harms]

As others have said already, circular saw guide would be the way to go. Here's a quick "How To": http://www.finehomebuilding.com/2010/11/11/make-a-saw-guide-for-faster-cleaner-cuts

I have a 4x8 work table and two sheets of 2'x8'x1/2" rigid foam that I put under the ply to protect the table.

Good point about the foam. That pretty much eliminates pinching and the last bit of the cut breaking instead of being cut.

[Roger Feeley]

Bruce, I've used a variation of your guide for years. In my case, I used 12" wide masonite and about 7" of half inch MDF. As you did, I used the saw to rip off the excess masonite which calibrates the guide to THAT saw and THAT blade. So, if you are going to do this buy several blades.

I bought a special saw for the jig with the motor on the right hand side of the blade. Since I am right handed, it puts the motor weight over the jig making it much easier to control the cut. I keep a really nice Freud plywood blade on that saw since all it ever does is cut sheet goods.

I should say that this thing is not as safe as a track saw. I have to use my left hand to make sure that the saw doesn't drift away from the jig which isn't optimal.

Edit: If I had it to do over again, I would make it a bit wider. Unless I'm careful, my clamps can get in the way of the saw.
Edit2: I have two guides: a 4' one and an 8' one.

[Charles Lent]

Many who use a track saw or circular saw and straight edge use a sheet of foam as a backer for the plywood and lay it on the floor to cut, cutting only slightly below the plywood and into the foam sheet. I've done this, but two knee replacements, and back trouble make it nearly impossible to get down on the floor and then back up any more. I've not treated my body very well and I'm paying for it now as I get older.

I built a cutting table, using banquet style table legs that are available from Northern and Harbor Freight. The table top frame is just a standing 1 X 4 perimeter frame about 30" X 70" in size, with short 2 X 4 cross pieces only where necessary to attach the folding legs, plus one in the table center for strength. All of the 2 X 4s are laid flat and flush with the table top edge of the 1 X 4 perimeter frame and all of the joints are joined with bisquits and glue, so there's no metal anywhere near the top surface in the table. The only metal are the legs and the short attachment screws for the legs plus 2 additional screws that I'm about to discuss the use of. The top 1" or so of the table contains no metal at all. To one side of the table frame I installed two scraps of plywood with a screw through each that is off center toward one edge of this scrap. When attached to the 1 X 4 table side, this screw is below the center of the 1 X 4 and positioned so the piece of plywood scrap can be turned so it either sticks up above the table frame or turned 180 deg to be below the top of the table frame. When the legs are folded they fold up inside the recess in the bottom of the 1 X 4 frame and below the 2 X 4s laid flat and flush with the top surface of the table. I store my folded cutting table leaning against my sheet stock in my shop, but use it in my driveway whenever I need to break down sheet stock, since my shop is too small to handle full sheets even though I have a Unisaw and 50" Unifence.

To load a piece of sheet goods onto the table, I just turn these two scraps of plywood so they stick up above the table top surface and then lay the table over on it's side with these plywood scraps down against the ground. I then place a piece of sheet goods against the table and onto these plywood scraps. Then I reach down under the table edge and the sheet goods and lift both into an upright position, with the sheet of material laying flat on top of the table. I can then turn these pieces of plywood scrap so they are down below the top surface of the table frame and re-position the sheet to better center it's weight over the table frame. I always make my cuts over the approximate center of the table, so when the cut is completed, all of the pieces remain on the table and nothing falls or breaks.

Since building this table, I have found very little use for saw horses. I now frequently take this table with me whenever doing any work away from my shop. Since there is no metal in the top 1" of the table, I can set my saw or router to cut fully through the stock and about 1/4" into the table with no fear of hitting metal. If I ever cut enough that kerfs in the table make the top too chewed up to use, I'll just make a new table top and transfer the legs to it.

I have made wooden straight edges like others have described, but I now use the aluminum Straight Edge Wide Body Clamps #582 and #596 from Peachtree woodworking www.ptreeusa.com. I've made a saddle attachment for my circular saw that lets me slide it along these clamps much like the design of a track saw.

Breaking up sheet goods is now quite easy for me and this old broken body, since I no longer have to bend over to break up the sheet goods or even pick up fallen pieces any more. Even getting the sheets onto the table is now relatively easy to do, even though I still have to bend over once for each sheet.

The attached photos show my original table, all made from 2 X 4s. I have since replaced this table with a lighter version of the same design using the 1 X 4 table edging instead of the 2 X 4s. I'm getting older (74 now) and the original table was getting too heavy for me to move easily. I can now move and carry this new lighter table anywhere that I need to.

Charley