Disston saw rehab?

[steven c newman]

Didn't want to hijack the other thread about saw teeth....:rolleyes:

So, I have an old Disston 20" Skew Back 10 ppi handsaw, from the early 50s.
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Have cleaned the saw plate up, hammered out the kinks. BLO wiped on and back off of the handle. There IS a faint Disston etch, just haven't found the model number.

Got out the old Wentworth saw vise. and tried out a jointer..
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But the file wasn't any good.....went with a bigger file..
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I took the ratty handle off the file, as it was in the way. After quite a few passes..
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No...there aren't any missing teeth, either. This might be awhile before I need the saw files.
As for the Wentworth No.1?
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Have it attached to a 2x6, so I can stick the vise into my end vise on the bench.

Have a few teeth on the saw that the gullets aren't very deep. Might work on those first? :confused:

[Pete Taran]

Shaping is where you should start as was discussion in Phil's thread. File straight across at the proper rake angle splitting the flats. Look like you have quite a few teeth that are out of joint (yes, that is where that saying comes from), so you will need to do several passes before you get to filing fleam. Just shape and then joint and repeat until all teeth come to points. When you are done, it's easy to file in the fleam by comparison. It's an iterative process and you don't have much to lose. Late model D8s like that are a great saw to learn to file on.

Regards,

Pete

[Glen Canaday]

What Pete said. Those 20" saws aren't rare by any means, but they don't show up every day. Nice find. I have an 1896-1917 that more or less matches it.

[steven c newman]

So, I should get a saw file out, and file for a while? Then joint things again, then file again....

BTW: I have had to hammer things along the plate, as there was a couple kinks down by the toe. Seem to have those fixed. Handle is a cover-top, hardware is the nickle plated type.

Debating on the handle itself....there are quite a few cracks in it. I do have a nice slab of figured Walnut ( a leftover..) about the right size , and grain directions. Maybe at a later date, I could make a new handle for this saw?

[Glen Canaday]

You won't learn to file without filing, so yup absolutely.

The D8 and D-8 were always cover top. That is the model they introduced it on!

[Pete Taran]

If the goal is learning to file and you don't care about the result, then absolutely. If you are thinking this will be a go to saw in your arsenal with a kinked and straightened blade and a lot of filing, you might find better candidates to focus your time on.

[steven c newman]

Already have a couple "go-to" saws.....Disston made one for a Hardware supply store in Cleveland, OH, Couple D-8s and a No.7.....three D-23s, including a 6ppi rip, and this Keystone Saw..
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Challenger K-6-1/2, 5-1/2 ppi Rip. My go-to Rip saw...
Both it and the 6ppiD-23 were sharpened by me. Just wasn't sure about how much work the D-8 Panel saw really needed....just a $1 saw, anyway..

[steven c newman]

Ok, found the files...found out I need HANDLES for the files. Fingers are now quite sore. Went heel to toe, and filed about 200 teeth. Test drive showed it pulled to the left, filed the burr off the left side and tried again...saw is sharp YET, but it cuts straighter. Tomorrow's schedule for this saw? Joint and repeat the file work. I do have a back up for this saw, though..
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Called The Cleveland Saw. Made for a hardware store supplier in Cleveland, OH. Also 20" long. Was good enough to saw dovetails with....

[steven c newman]

Only item that was done today? Gave the handle a coat of Lacquer, and then rubbed it down a bit. Otherwise? Sat around, resting the knee.....lot of trips up and down them stairs to the shop....

[steven c newman]

Ok, seems I just can't sit for that long...I did pull the Cleveland Saw down from the overhead till...Seems it is a little different from the other saw being worked on...besides being sharper..
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It is a 22" long saw. Also a 10ppi skew back. Warranted Superior on the medallion ( brass one, no less)
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Even has a bit of carving going on.

Jointed the teeth again. Found some other file handles, too..
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Slipped the Panel saw into the vise...
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gave the teeth a few swipes with the jointer file, and then tried to file a few teeth...
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Got to the left side of the vise, decided the fingers were too sore to finish tonight. Still shaping, still have a few low spots. Maybe I can finish this run of teeth, joint once more. By then, I might even have a new file to use? So far, all I've used have been older ones. Even had one that the filings stuck to the file like a magnet. Stay tuned.

BTW: that 22" long one is sharp from the factory, has a readable etch, and is already filed as a crosscut. Brand name on that saw? Cleancut....

[steven c newman]

Hmmm...new file was bought and tried out today......works. Also found a missing tooth 2/3s of the way to the toe. Rest of the teeth look good. Will have to think on this one a while...

Might set it aside.....as I have an Atkins 7ppi skew back 26" that could use a bit of file work...Have that saw all ready except for the teeth. And...7ppi is a bit easier to SEE than a 10ppi.

may need to get some "Charlie Weaver" glasses....

[steven c newman]

Ok, placed the two shorter saws away....still haven't decided on what to do about that missing tooth...

On a brighter note. The Atkins saw has been cleaned up, the "Cow&Calf" teeth have been taken care of....
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The saw came from an estate sale where there was also a Foley Belsaw machine....didn't do much of a job.
26" long, skew back, open top handle. 7ppi ( much easier to see, for me) and hails from Indy,IN
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I drew a line on some scrap for a test drive of the "new" teeth..
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Note the "time stamp"..
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Cuts fast, and a tad rough, Carpenter's Saw?
Results?
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Axe is not mine.....
BTW, I did "clock" the bolts, too..
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While I can barely tell if there is an etch, there is a bunch of circles just barely there. Unable to ID which Atkins saw this is, though.
Might be a keeper..

[lowell holmes]

I have tried touching up old tooth lines, never with any degree of satisfaction.

I file the tooth line smooth and re-tooth with a saw file and a template taped to the side of the saw plate.

I have always been successful with this approach. I coat the smooth tooth line with red marker so I can see where the file is positioned.

When I am through, the saw cuts straight and quickly, and I don't have to keep fiddling with it.

Just my take on it. A good saw set is required. :)

[steven c newman]

hmmm, need to be on the look out for a saw set. have had a few come through the shop....just never had that much of a need for them.

Since the knee is being "scoped" on the 15th of this month, going to the shop might get a bit"dicey".....the steps are bad enough now.

may put that Disston Panel Saw on Hold for a while, until I feel like hoping around. Might just grind them all down, and start over, when I can get around better.

[steven c newman]

After that Panel saw, wonder which of these two I can do next..
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The No.7 would be nice to do @ 7ppi but I don't think I have to sharpen this ..
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Well, at least the pencil is sharp....
The D-8 is an 8ppi. Slightly new than the No.7 behind it..
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Both were just Yard Sale finds I've had around the shop for a while......:rolleyes:

[steven c newman]

Wonder IF I need to remove those handles, before trying to sharpen the teeth?

[steven c newman]

May put this on hold for a few weeks....Have a scrollsaw to get running, again..
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Patterns have been made, need to make use of them, to build something more connected to this time of year..
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Just six pieces of pine, that when assembled, and decorated up..
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Becomes a "Rudolph" Will need to lay in a few supplies, too. At least, I can do these sitting down at the scrollsaw.

[Glen Canaday]

I started my own rehab on a similar Disston. I made a fleam & rake guide. I'll post when I can. Would you like the guide in here?

[lowell holmes]

I did not mention that saw sets tend to multiply like rabbits. I have at least four.

[Glen Canaday]

I can verify this statement. I have 5. I didn't mean to.

But the more I try to use them, the more I want to try the one I have that's inline rather than the pistol grip ones I have.

[steven c newman]

I'll keep an eye for a few guides....

There was a fellow awhile back ( GE Hong Videos) that used an old, worn out, plastic handled, firmer chisel. He cut a series of slots into one edge. He then used those slots to set the teeth on a frame saw he had just made. How much he bent each tooth was by eye and feel. ...Hmmmm I may have one or two old chisels sitting around.....