Grizzly 0766 down what to do what to do...

[Richard Demler]

Had a break on my Grizzly 0766 that I never expected..Got done turning the outside of a future bowl and went to remove the face plate from the spindle..Had the pin threaded in the way I have many times,wrapped my arms around the wooden piece put some weight on it to pop it loose and then this happened..I have the pin but the broken casting part is somewhere in the shavings under the lathe..I will sift through it later..I'm pretty sure I can still use the lathe,but how do I go about getting this replaced or repaired..Bought it 3-4-16 is something like this covered by Grizzly?? Any input is appreciated..Thanks for your time..

[John Keeton]

Grizzly has a one year warranty, so I doubt this is warranted. A repair would seem to require a replacement of the entire headstock casting. I am not familiar with your lathe, but generally speaking, I would think those holes are for indexing - not a spindle lock. Isn't there a spindle lock button?

[Roger Chandler]

This has happened on other makes as well when the casting around the spindle holes gave way. If I were you, I would communicate with Grizzly, and send them some pics. They might have a spare headstock casting.......perhaps might be willing to swap out a new headstock for some reduced cost, since they would be getting yours back for parts......worth a try at least.

You can still use it as is, I would think.

[Richard Demler]

According to my Manual they are indexing holes also used as a spindle lock. I bought the lathe 3-4-16 9 months ago..I'm hoping it's covered..

[Richard Demler]

Roger,have you seen it happen on other grizzlys?

[Roger Chandler]

Roger,have you seen it happen on other grizzlys?Not any G0766's, but Fred Belknap had it happen on his old G0698. One thing is that the faceplate can get stuck when it is over tightened on the initial mating with the spindle. I had the same thing happen on my former Craftsman 15" vs lathe, and broke the gear shaft, [gear driven, not belt driven] ruining the lathe. A good strap wrench comes in handy at times, and remember the force of the cutting will tighten the faceplate. I prefer using a chuck that I can get a wrench on the insert to remove. I have not had any problems with my 0698 or my 0766 with this type of thing.

Another tip might be to make a thin washer to fit between the shoulder of the spindle and the faceplate out of a piece of milk jug.

[Richard Demler]

Thanks for the info Roger..Usually I can turn the pieces off by hand and this would have done the same.I reset the pin in a leftover not broken hole and it did come off as usual..I guess stuff happens once in awhile..I'll call Grizzly on Monday.

[Roger Chandler]

Sounds like you are still under warranty, so they should replace it for you.

[Brice Rogers]

It is still under warranty so Griz should replace it. You'll most likely get a complete new headstock (including motor, controller, etc.).

It is really surprising how it broke though. It is hard to imagine that with a 12-14 " bowl that you could have supplied enough force with your bare hands to cause the casting to break. I would be surprised if just grasping the turned bowl that you were applying anything more than perhaps 80 -100 foot pounds of force. There is no way that it should have been enough to cause the fracture. I'm wondering if the casting had a small crack/fracture perhaps from the drilling and tapping or from its original manufacture. Griz made that hole for the purpose that you used it for.

Let us know what Griz does to correct your problem.

[John Keeton]

I am not sure why I read the purchase date as 3-4-15, but I agree Grizzly will warrant it. Their customer service is excellent. My previous lathe - a Jet 1642-2 - and my current Laguna both have a separate spindle lock through a thicker part of the headstock casting. The Powermatic also does that, as do the new Grizzly models. That would seem to be a stronger option.

[Richard Demler]

Brice I'm trying to find the broken piece in my shavings pile under the lathe..I wanna see if there is any clue as to why it broke...John,the manual says when putting on or taking off a faceplate to insert pin into the holes that broke out to hold the spindle.I will let you know what Grizzly says Monday.

[Fred Belknap]

Richard I had that happen on my new G0698. I was using a Talon chuck and it has a slightly smaller radius on the insert than the spindle. It would screw on but wouldn't completely set against the shoulder on the spindle. It was stuck good. In the process of getting it off I did just like yours. Grizzly refused to repair it because I was using an after market chuck(not theirs). The lathe was just weeks old, makes one feel kind of dumb, like I should have known the Talon chuck wouldn't work. I had used the Talon on another Grizzly lathe for a couple of years. Customer service words were "I'll take it to the man upstairs and call you back", I'm still waiting.
I think you might have a good case as you were using the supplied faceplate and doing it as the manual stated. I kept the lathe for three years and used it using the other holes as a spindle lock. I sold the lathe at less than half price and bought a PM3520b. I understand Grizzly's decision but can't say I'm happy with them.

[Richard Demler]

Fred,thanks for the info...I'm hoping for the best..

[Roger Chandler]

Richard, one thing that might help in the future, when you get the new one is to take a file and cut down the diameter of the boss on the spindle so that the chuck insert will seat all the way back to the spindle shoulder......that will likely also prevent any future mishaps like this. That will make aftermarket chuck inserts fit well, and not make you dependent on Grizzly chucks alone. Most of us G0766 owners did that up front.

[Brice Rogers]

Richard,

To find the broken casting parts, you may have luck using a powerful magnet.

I always use the yellow plastic washer between the chuck/faceplate and the spindle. It's purpose is to keep the faceplate from getting stuck as tightly.

Good luck.

[brian zawatsky]

That's a bummer, man. Sorry for your bad luck! Hopefully Grizzly will make it right.

I can see from your pics that the faceplate was indeed seated up against the spindle shoulder like it should be, but that the nylon anti-lock washer is missing. Maybe that contributed by increasing the amount of force you needed to use to loosen the faceplate.

I have the same lathe, and when I remove the faceplate I make sure to thread the pin all the way in so it seats tight. Then I use a screwdriver through one of the holes in the side of the faceplate to break it loose. Generally doesn't take more than just a little tug to get it spinning.

[brian zawatsky]

Sorry to be redundant, Brice posted while I was typing

[Roger Chandler]

We must remember that like the G0733, the G0766 was manufactured to metric dimensions, except the spindle threads. That difference between imperial SAE and metric tolerances account for tight conditions using aftermarket accessories. Should not have made a difference with Richard's Grizzly faceplate, however.

Taking a file to the boss while the lathe runs at 500 rpm can take a few thousandth's off, and help with the fit of aftermarket accessories made with SAE dimensions. Just given for information to any future readers of this thread who are looking for info on the G0766.

[Robert Henrickson]

My previous lathe - a Jet 1642-2 - and my current Laguna both have a separate spindle lock through a thicker part of the headstock casting. The Powermatic also does that, as do the new Grizzly models. That would seem to be a stronger option.

As noted in a previous post, the Grizzly manual says to use an indexing hole when mounting/dismounting a faceplate. I too was surprised that an indexing hole would be used as a spindle lock so I read through the manual to see if there was any mention of a dedicated spindle lock. I couldn't find one. I remain surprised, since even my Jet mini has a true spindle lock in the heavy part of the headstock casting.

[Richard Demler]

Is this washer that some of you use suppose to be with the lathe??I have none and never heard of it before.

[Roger Chandler]

Is this washer that some of you use suppose to be with the lathe??I have none and never heard of it before. Here ya go, Richard.........

https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/195/5507/Turners-Select-No-Lock-Spindle-Washer

[Adam Petersen]

Here ya go, Richard.........

https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/195/5507/Turners-Select-No-Lock-Spindle-Washer

I'll second what Roger posted. Before I purchased a couple of these, my chuck would get stuck. Since using these, there is no issue at all. It is such an improvement. I got mine from WTC which Roger linked, but I am guessing you could find a washer like this locally if you have some hardware options in your town.

[William C Rogers]

I had a chuck stuck. I now use never-seize on the threads and have not had a problem. Here is the length with the suggestions on preventing this from happening.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?241592-Chuck-stuck-on-spindle

edit. Fixed link.

[Paul Crofton]

Man that has to hurt when you look at it. I use a clockwise wrap of blue painters tape on the shoulder and a couple threads on the shaft. Easy to replace usually monthly just for kicks. I have never had an issue getting chucks or faceplates off since. I tried the nylon bushings and kept loosing them. The blue tape stays put. Using anti sieze I had a couple incidents of the piece coming off the threads when I shut it off and the piece kept spinning. I don't have reverse so it is no issue.

[Jeramie Johnson]

Ouch, you should find their customer support to work well with you on this one. It should not have broke, I suspect a fault in the casting (air pocket, stress crack) Fred should contact them again too, now that someone has proof using the stock pieces can have the same issue.

I use a washer with plates and chucks always now. My previous lathe, a Delta, had its "face plate stuck again" issue all the time. Never once you start using the thin washer.

[Brice Rogers]

I am a retired engineer. When I looked at the failure some things came to mind. The distance from the large hole to the edge is less than is commonly recommended. The distance between the holes is at a design minimum. Both of those factors contributed to the failure. But I suspect that the main culprit was a flaw in the casting. The index holes could easily have been moved around the circumference and have increased the strength and not changed the function or cost. I am hoping for the OP that Grizz takes care on him quickly and without unnecessary dialogue.

[Jay Mullins]

Roger, I have the G0766, but I'm not sure what the boss is. I was turning a large bowl today, using the faceplate and and did the same thing Richard did. Luckily I didn't break the casting. How do I file down the "boss"?
Jay

[Brice Rogers]

Jay, I think that what Roger was referring to is the shoulder at the back of the spindle threads. The spindle threads need to be less than 1.250" and are well within that. The purpose? So that a standard chuck or faceplate with a 1.250 opening can fit. But on the Grizzly, for no particular good reason IMHO, they made the register or shoulder 1.260 " in diameter. Some aftermarket faceplates and chucks won't seat correctly. the Griz faceplate is bored a bit oversize and does fit. So, most Griz. g0766 owners take a file to the shoulder and reduce it's diameter. It is a minor design or manufacturing mistake but it can easily be corrected. But don't mess with the face of the register.

If I go to Lowes or Home Depot and buy a 1/2" or 3/4" bolt, I know that the thread will be under 1/2" or 3/4" respectively. I also know that the unthreaded shank of the bolt will also be under 1/2" or 3/4" respectively. I know that if I drill the right nominally sized hole that the bolt will fit - - except perhaps if it was made by the same people who made the Griz 0766 spindle. There is no GOOD reason why Griz did that. Some people will allude to some ultimate "purpose" but they cannot articulate what purpose that might be.

[Roger Chandler]

Roger, I have the G0766, but I'm not sure what the boss is. I was turning a large bowl today, using the faceplate and and did the same thing Richard did. Luckily I didn't break the casting. How do I file down the "boss"?
JayThere is info about this on the Grizzly Green Monster Group [GGMG] so go to the community tab at the top of the page, click, then groups, click and you will see the group. Look back on the threads and the pics and find it. Likely from middle of 2015, or thereabouts.

[david privett]

since I seen this I am going to use the threaded index holes on each end with taking off or putting on torque in mind for pin placement. hope this is a freak bad casting thing, and yes I feel that the holes are to close together for reasonable strength in cast iron , but I like overkill engineering.

[Mark Greenbaum]

since I seen this I am going to use the threaded index holes on each end with taking off or putting on torque in mind for pin placement. hope this is a freak bad casting thing, and yes I feel that the holes are to close together for reasonable strength in cast iron , but I like overkill engineering.

I think from now on, I will use the lowest of the threaded index holes. That way if I am turning a chuck or faceplate clockwise to remove it from the spindle, there will be more metal, and no holes below the spindle locking pin.

Someone who's got engineering background should design an internal lock like the PM's or Jets have to fit this lathe. I can't tell you how many times the pin has fallen out into shavings.

[Roger Chandler]

I think from now on, I will use the lowest of the threaded index holes.
I can't tell you how many times the pin has fallen out into shavings.
I solved the pin issue with a string tied to it and enough length to allow it to hang out of the way, yet use it when needed on my old G0698. I like your idea of using the lowest hole.......it means more metal surrounding/supporting the pin.

[Brice Rogers]

I think from now on, I will use the lowest of the threaded index holes. That way if I am turning a chuck or faceplate clockwise to remove it from the spindle, there will be more metal, and no holes below the spindle locking pin.

Someone who's got engineering background should design an internal lock like the PM's or Jets have to fit this lathe. I can't tell you how many times the pin has fallen out into shavings.

If we hear of more instances of broken castings, I suppose that we could drill a new (single) hole on the opposite side of the casting for the purpose of unlocking. That way there would be extra material around that hole. I think that it is a slightly better practice to use the larger (unthreaded) hole for a spindle unlock and use the threaded holes only for indexing the spindle - - that is, with no substantial forces. But your idea of using the lowest threaded hole (where there is more metal downstream) also has logic and merit.

[Mark Greenbaum]

Richard: Any response yet from Grizzly Customer Service? Keep us posted please.

[Richard Demler]

Mark,I talked to them yesterday,sent them pics,now waiting for a return call from them.They asked for 48 hrs,so I'll wait..Until tomorrow morning..Whoever I talked to sounded helpful..Let ya know tomorrow.

[Roger Chandler]

Mark,I talked to them yesterday,sent them pics,now waiting for a return call from them.They asked for 48 hrs,so I'll wait..Until tomorrow morning..Whoever I talked to sounded helpful..Let ya know tomorrow.
I hope you mentioned that you were using their faceplate, and following their manual instructions. They should replace this.........it was likely a casting flaw that weakened the area, not visible with the eye, but there under the paint or such.

[Dane Riley]

Although I cringe when I hear Harbor Freight turning tools recommended, I can recommend this: http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-magnetic-pickup-tool-42288.html . No, it won't lift 25 pounds, and I'm glad it won't. Difficult enough to get small objects off. Great for finding screws in shavings. Saves my back and knees whenever I drop something iron or steel under the lathe. Easily paid for itself in replacement jaw screws alone.

[Roger Chandler]

Although I cringe when I hear Harbor Freight turning tools recommended, I can recommend this: http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-magnetic-pickup-tool-42288.html . No, it won't lift 25 pounds, and I'm glad it won't. Difficult enough to get small objects off. Great for finding screws in shavings. Saves my back and knees whenever I drop something iron or steel under the lathe. Easily paid for itself in replacement jaw screws alone.I have one of those and a couple of smaller telescoping magnets for smaller stuff. I also have a retrieving magnet on a rope that I got 20 years ago for help when cleaning the chimney, and something got dropped. I use it when I drop one of my tool rests behind the lathe, or a chuck rolls off the shelf....it will pick up over 100 lbs.

[John K Jordan]

... No, it won't lift 25 pounds, and I'm glad it won't. Difficult enough to get small objects off. Great for finding screws in shavings.

For pickup magnets, I have never used one better than the one I have now - very strong magnets with a release handle. This one is about 12" wide, great for sweeping the ground outside but a little big for in the shop. Pull the release handle and anything picked up just drops away. This one came from a pro builder's supply, but Sir Google tells me a smaller 20 lb version can be had for $20: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200667934_200667934

JKJ

[Jay Mullins]

Thanks Brice

Jay

[Jay Mullins]

Thanks Roger

Jay

[Richard Demler]

Update on repairs from tech support at Grizzly..They saw the pictures and said they would send me a new housing,and I could replace everything inside of it..I said I did not have the tools to do a job like that..They apparently discussed a few options while I was on hold..They came back and said I should send the head stock in and they would replace everything in it..I suggested they send me a new headstock,and they said they did'nt have any in stock and it would be 6-9 weeks for new inventory to arrive to them..I said I would wait for them to send me a new headstock as I can still use the one I have..They asked me to send the old one back,and I said I would return it in the box they send me the new one in..So,I am waiting the 6-9 weeks for the replacement..End of story so far..

[Brice Rogers]

You got good news! Grizz is getting some free and positive publicity.

I like your approach of having them crate up a headstock first. I had a similar headstock replacement issue and opted for the same approach - - get the new headstock first and then use the same crate to send it back. BTW, the headstock weighs something around 210 pounds.

[Mark Greenbaum]

Richard: That's very strategic of you, but the clock is running out on your warranty, turn as much as you can. I hope everything works out well for you.

[Richard Demler]

I just did'nt want to be out a lathe for that long of a time..Hate to think I'd have to buy another lathe as a backup..I do have 2 more questions I need to call back and ask about..Will let ya know more if more happens.

[Roger Chandler]

Not criticizing your approach, Richard. Being without the ability to turn for 6 weeks is probably not easy for anyone. I think however, that if it were me in your situation, I would have sent the headstock back to Grizzly, post haste, and had them install everything and get the repair on record that they did the service. I would also required it to be signed for and a receipt back to me, for proof they got it.

That puts all the responsibility on their tech department to get the repair right....Keeping the warranty intact for the full period...programming of the inverter, everything. I think turn around would probably been in the neighborhood of two weeks to maybe three at most. But, I would ask the questions on turn around time before sending it to them.

[Richard Demler]

I had 2 questions from them I called and got answered.It will still be covered to the end of my original warranty and they are paying shipping to get the old one back..Roger,I'd rather turn while I wait and I'm sure the new headstock will be recorded somewhere.......

[John Keeton]

For what it is worth, I agree with the decision to have a new headstock shipped when available. Much easier and less risk of problems than any other method. The only adjustment may be tailstock alignment. That is usually factory set and installation of a new headstock may require a bit of tweaking of the alignment.

[Mark Greenbaum]

For what it is worth, I agree with the decision to have a new headstock shipped when available. Much easier and less risk of problems than any other method. The only adjustment may be tailstock alignment. That is usually factory set and installation of a new headstock may require a bit of tweaking of the alignment.

I am not sure if there's even a way to adjust tailstock alignment on this lathe. I know of no accessible screws or shims to square or level the tailstock. Anyone?

[Roger Chandler]

Mark, I think final adjustments to the castings on both the tailstock and headstock are likely done by hand milling the castings to assure alignments. On my former G0698, I had a spot of casting slag on the bottom of the tailstock casting, which made the centers off just a little, and I filed it down, and had perfect alignment of centers. Of course the most likely problem is that the lathe bed is not level end to end and front to back.....bed level is a must before any other adjustments.

[John K Jordan]

For what it is worth, I agree with the decision to have a new headstock shipped when available. Much easier and less risk of problems than any other method. The only adjustment may be tailstock alignment. That is usually factory set and installation of a new headstock may require a bit of tweaking of the alignment.

Yikes, that reminded me of a discovery I made. I have two identical Jet 1642 lathes. I found the tailstocks were NOT interchangable. If I used tailstock B with headstock A the alignment was terrible, more than I could easily adjust.

JKJ

[John K Jordan]

I am not sure if there's even a way to adjust tailstock alignment on this lathe. I know of no accessible screws or shims to square or level the tailstock. Anyone?

Mark, a way to adjust the horizontal alignment for most lathes with cast iron beds is raise or lower one leg with a shim or leveler. For example if the tailstock point is too close to you, raise the front right leg. This will rack (twist) the entire bed on even a heavy casting and bring the head and tailstock points into horizontal adjustment. It might be surprising how flexible cast iron is.

(Before aligning this way check that contact surfaces are clean and without dents or burrs.)

I align like this if needed every time I move a lathe. It doesn't take much unevenness in a floor to misalign things. I had to do this recently when I moved my Powermatic 3520b, a fairly stout lathe.

I see no need to worry if the bed of the lathe is precisely level left to right or front to back.

BTW, if you do the math misalignment far from the headstock doesn't make much difference, especially since we are using hand-held tools - the angles are tiny. It does make a difference on a metal-cutting lathe, in fact, intentional misalignment is a way to cut tapers between centers. Metal lathes have a screw to offset the tailstock horizontally.

JKJ

[Walter Mooney]

I ALWAYS use the bottom hole as the spindle lock on my G0766, with the other end of the pin (the non-threaded end). Works well. Only sometimes the pin falls out before I'm ready to take it out!

[David C. Roseman]

I ALWAYS use the bottom hole as the spindle lock on my G0766, with the other end of the pin (the non-threaded end). Works well. Only sometimes the pin falls out before I'm ready to take it out!


Walter, I'm glad that's working ok for you so far. I notice in post #31 that Mark Greenbaum also uses the lowest index hole, although I believe he may use the threaded end of the pin.

IMHO, I recommend against either of these approaches to locking the spindle for faceplate or chuck removal. Instead, I only use the largest of the four indexing holes for this. I suspect it is the one that the designers probably intended for this purpose. It is unthreaded and it accepts the fatter, unthreaded end of the pin. The larger bore and fatter end of the pin allow for a broader distribution of the forces on the casting. I think this slightly reduces the point-load at bottom-dead-center below (or top-dead-center above) the pin. Haven't had a problem on either my 1-y/o G0766 or my 3-y/o G0733, which uses the same design.

That said, I agree that the design leaves something to be desired. Happy to see that Grizzly is stepping up to this for Richard, the OP. As they should.

[Jeramie Johnson]

Walter, I'm glad that's working ok for you so far. I notice in post #31 that Mark Greenbaum also uses the lowest index hole, although I believe he may use the threaded end of the pin.

IMHO, I recommend against either of these approaches to locking the spindle for faceplate or chuck removal. Instead, I only use the largest of the four indexing holes for this. I suspect it is the one that the designers probably intended for this purpose. It is unthreaded and it accepts the fatter, unthreaded end of the pin. The larger bore and fatter end of the pin allow for a broader distribution of the forces on the casting. I think this slightly reduces the point-load at bottom-dead-center below (or top-dead-center above) the pin. Haven't had a problem on either my 1-y/o G0766 or my 3-y/o G0733, which uses the same design.

That said, I agree that the design leaves something to be desired. Happy to see that Grizzly is stepping up to this for Richard, the OP. As they should.. I do the same. Never even thought to use the skinny end or angled holes. More meat and doesn't fall into the dust, especially when handling the large blanks. I also didn't want to mess up the pin threads.

[Walter Mooney]

Well everyone, I need to retract or correct my earlier reply. I was going from memory when I said I use the bottom hole, but I discovered yesterday that there are four holes, three of which are threaded. I always use the third hole from the top, the largest diameter hole, and the only hole that's not threaded. I don't ever use one of the threaded holes! And I always use the non-threaded end of the pin. It has fallen out several times at an inopportune time. I wish they had put that hole at the twelve o'clock position, or at least above the eight o'clock position where it is now.


I ALWAYS use the bottom hole as the spindle lock on my G0766, with the other end of the pin (the non-threaded end). Works well. Only sometimes the pin falls out before I'm ready to take it out!

[Roger Chandler]

Hole positions are arranged the way they are for indexing- not saying there is not a better design, just how they did it on this model - if one reduces the spindle boss and uses moderate torque, getting a chuck stuck should not be a problem.

[Sid Matheny]

Well everyone, I need to retract or correct my earlier reply. I was going from memory when I said I use the bottom hole, but I discovered yesterday that there are four holes, three of which are threaded. I always use the third hole from the top, the largest diameter hole, and the only hole that's not threaded. I don't ever use one of the threaded holes! And I always use the non-threaded end of the pin. It has fallen out several times at an inopportune time. I wish they had put that hole at the twelve o'clock position, or at least above the eight o'clock position where it is now.


If the hole was at the top you would have to keep it plugged to keep shavings out of it. No big deal but I would guess that is one of the reasons it's not there.