Vari Grind 2 use...

[George Courson]

I've got the Vari-Grind jig to use with the Wolverine Sharpening system, along with the Raptor Angle setup jigs. However, I'm finding that it is extremely easy for the tool to slip off the grinder and hit the edge. So, I started looking at the Vari-Grind 2.

The question I have about it is, has anyone come up with jigs like the Raptor Setup Tools to set a consistent angle for sharpening?
I'm handicapped in that I have very limited use of my right hand (which is why the tools slips off the wheel easily.)
In all of the video's I can find, everyone is 'eyeballing' the distance by turning the stone by hand, after marking it with a marker. While this does work, there's got to be a better way.... anyone know of a setup system to get the distance set accurately?

[Bob Bouis]

If you mean a jig to set how far out the "v arm" on the jig is from the stone, all you need is a piece of wood cut to the right size.

[George Courson]

If you mean a jig to set how far out the "v arm" on the jig is from the stone, all you need is a piece of wood cut to the right size.

could you give me a specific lengths?

I ask because the Raptor Setup Tools are different for each angle.

[Bob Bouis]

I can't. You'll just have to play with the jig until you find the right distance. Then you cut a small board to fit that distance. I assume the best places to reference would be between the Oneway base and the end of the arm.

The precise angle isn't important, anyway, just being able to consistently go back to it.

[John K Jordan]

I've got the Vari-Grind jig to use with the Wolverine Sharpening system, along with the Raptor Angle setup jigs. However, I'm finding that it is extremely easy for the tool to slip off the grinder and hit the edge. So, I started looking at the Vari-Grind 2.


I don't know what a Raptor is, but I do have the Vari-Grind and Vari-Grind 2. The marker and scratch method works for me. I do have a template for a guide you make from plywood or masonite or something - I think I got it from Glenn Lucas but I don't see it on his web site right now. He uses several varigrind jigs, each set to his favorite angles and uses the guides to set the arm distance the same each time. It should be easy to devise one. I can try to find my copy next time I got to the shop.

I personally don't care for the Vari-Grind 2 - you want it? There are several things I don't like about it - one: although it won't in fact let the you slip the tool off the edge of the wheel, it does constrain the gouge to grinding in the center of the wheel. Seems like a standard wheel would soon have a grove in the middle and a CBN wheel would be worn more in one spot. That is, unless I've overlooked something. There was something else I didn't care for but it's been so long I can't remember.

Regardless, I'm happy with the original. If you want it maybe we can work out something. I've sent stuff to England and Italy but never to Peru!

JKJ

[Peter Blair]

For all my bowl gouges I use the same setting by drilling a hole in the arm and inserting a pin. I have three settings drilled one each for bowl and spindle gouges as well as one more for putting on a secondary bevel. I use a block of hard plastic mounted on my grinding table to set the length the tool extends from the Vari-grind 2.

[Lloyd Butler]

I think most people who have tried both the Varigrind (original) and #2 find the same thing that John reported.

As for trying to get a set-up that works best for your limit control, I would look at getting a set-up for the arm in the furtherest away position and then make a series of small blocks to drop into the pocket to push the arm forward to change the nose angle. That way you only have one template to build and then use the same spacers all the time.

I sharpen all my bowl gouges to the same angle and do not bother changing the varigrind arm position or the pocket length ever as I do not turn many really deep bowls, so do not need a 65-ish+ angle grind on my bowl gouge.

For a starting distance from the back of the pocket to the leading edge of the grinding wheel, try 7 to 7.25" and see where that gets you. If your extension arm is not set-up to anyones standard height below the wheel center, then it will be hard to give you an exact fit measurement. I would take a gouge with my bluntest grind and futz with the arm position to get that set-up and then mark the extension arm position. Then I would work on the next bevel angle change and work on a block as a spacer, and continue on to my spindle gouges. You could build a jig at this point to reset your pocket position as the wheel is reduced in size with usage or you need to move the pocket for something else.

If you have the fixed tool extension, then the varigrind the arm position (angle) is used for the nose angle changes on your gouge and then the distance from the wheel to the pocket controls the tilt of the wing angle. The length of your wings is just more time on the grinder, not changing anything else. Once you get those three parameters set-up, you can confidently resharpen your gouges in seconds on your grinder.

I think with a bit of shop time and some persistence you can get what you currently have working well for your needs.

[George Courson]

For all my bowl gouges I use the same setting by drilling a hole in the arm and inserting a pin. I have three settings drilled one each for bowl and spindle gouges as well as one more for putting on a secondary bevel. I use a block of hard plastic mounted on my grinding table to set the length the tool extends from the Vari-grind 2.
I think that I may use you 'pin' idea, but i'll have to wait until I can get the CBN wheels, so the distance never changes.

[Glenn C Roberts]

Just recently received this Wolverine and grinder setup. Here is what I came up with: 1st pic shows 2 jigs, gouge specific. Note the adjusting screws to set the varigrind at the correct angle. The same block then goes on the sliding arm to set the distance out (second pic). 3rd screw located bottom right of top wooden block is not needed.
The platform has a plate that has the "angel locating holes' for platform adjusting - 3rd pic. There is a cut out on top of the plate to allow for the weld on the platform. The plate is held by the platform adjusting lever and the bottom surface of the platform - 4th pic. It is held very securely - there is no play.
Works perfectly for me - for the 3 times I have used it!

PS: The way the cbn is mounted is the only way I could get it to run true - the stock flanges for the grinder are useless, although I was able to get the white stone wheel to run true by rotating the flanges a few degrees at a time. The light is also useless, but I am going to replace the led's with brighter replacements.

[John K Jordan]

PS: The way the cbn is mounted is the only way I could get it to run true - the stock flanges for the grinder are useless, although I was able to get the white stone wheel to run true by rotating the flanges a few degrees at a time.

Do you know about the spherical washer set that Ken Rizza sells (Wooturners Wonders)? With these you replace the flanges with a hardened washer set that removes irregularity in the nut. I have 4 CBN wheels mounted this way and they all run true. The washer kit is very inexpensive. Here's a link: http://woodturnerswonders.com/collections/self-aligning-spherical-washer-sets/spherical-washer

BTW, there is an article by Don Geiger in this month's (Dec '16) American Woodturner describes truing aluminum oxide wheels using the stock flanges. I have used the flange rotation method too. A better but more expensive method is with OneWay's balancing kit - not only do the wheels run true they can be easily balanced (the material in some is inherently out of balance).

JKJ

[Glenn C Roberts]

Thankx John.