Bompe Chest Build – Part #1 Ball and Claw Feet

[Mike Allen1010]

This is part one of a Neander bombe chest build. I’ll include a picture of the overall shape of the chest in subsequent posts, but basically on both the vertical and horizontal dimension, the chest is wider at the bottom than the top with a semicircular curve built into both the carcass sides and front.

Typically these chests have drawers. I’m building this one out mahogany to hold some audio hi-fi components, so no drawers – the front of the carcass will be open with shelves to support the electronics. There are a pair of amplifiers that each weight ~75 lbs. I love music (but can’t play a lick myself) and am an old school analog guy. That means tube amplifiers (yes they still make those) that generate a ton of heat. The design needs to be appropriately strong to support the weight, but also allow for airflow to keep everything cool.

The LOML is a big fan of Louis XIV furniture which means lots of curves, veneer and classically some other gaudy decorative elements (I won’t be including), if I have any chance of getting approval to bring a new piece of furniture in the house, timing will be key! The only way I was able to finagle getting the 6’ tall speakers into the house in the first place was on a "temporary, trial basis, just to make sure everything works”. For me, anything from BB King/Eric Clapton, along with good whiskey is pretty much heaven!

The overall dimensions of the chest are taken from an example in V.C.Salomonsky’s “Masterpieces of Furniture” (which I highly recommend), roughly 40” wide x 24” tall by 21” deep. Described as “Low Chest Of Drawers Dutch 1725 – 1750”.

The first part is Cabriolet, ball and claw feet. Here’s the template I use for layout taken from Salomonsky’s book. The instructions for carving the B&C came from “Carving 18th-Century American Furniture Elements” by Tony Kubalak. If you’re interested in learning how to add some carving elements to your furniture builds, I could not recommend this book more strongly. It has great step-by-step descriptions with illustrations for classic 18th-century furniture carvings.


http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20stand/1_zpsnamdrq5t.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20stand/1_zpsnamdrq5t.jpg.html)


The stock for the feet are 3 ½ in.² mahogany I had left over from another project. This pic shows the layout on the bottom of the foot.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20stand/2%202_zpswfeycapi.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20stand/2%202_zpswfeycapi.jpg.html)


I didn’t take any pictures of shaping the Cabriolet legs (my bad). Here they are after being cut out on my cheesy bandsaw and shaped with rasps/files. You can see the layout lines from the bottom of the foot extended up the sides.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20stand/3_zpsk3ntxyyd.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20stand/3_zpsk3ntxyyd.jpg.html)

I am absolutely a novice Carver. I did one other set of B&C feed before, the key learning for me was that if you want everything to look symmetrical, you have to work to a ton of defined dimensions for the height, depth of the ball, height of the claws front/sides and back if you want to end up with something that looks reasonable in the end. I’m sure artistic people with the ability to envision objects in 3 dimensions don’t need these dimensional reference points. I’m the least artistic person you're ever gonna meet, my approach is strictly mechanical – measure everything and just try and work each element to the reference point dimensions as best you can and hope it all hangs together in the end.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20stand/4_zpsbzuhghaa.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20stand/4_zpsbzuhghaa.jpg.html)


After layout, first step is sawing vertical limits of the toes. Here’s a pic of tools – carving gouges and rafts/files.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20stand/6_zpsdmrazuh4.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20stand/6_zpsdmrazuh4.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20stand/8.5_zpsnl5hcyvd.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20stand/8.5_zpsnl5hcyvd.jpg.html)




First step is separating the toes from the ball, and then using a # 3 gouge to establish the circular vertical dimension.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20stand/9_zps0rxccm5b.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20stand/9_zps0rxccm5b.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20stand/10_zpsbmlswtub.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20stand/10_zpsbmlswtub.jpg.html)

[Mike Allen1010]

Next is incising the ark for the top of the ball, and using a flat chisel to establish the height of the ball.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20stand/11_zpsxg5um9yl.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20stand/11_zpsxg5um9yl.jpg.html)



Here is using a number 5 gouge to establish the curved upper surface of the ball. After each step is important to redraw the maximum horizontal radius of the ball so that when you shape the bottom half of the ball (I used rasps/files), it’s symmetrical.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20stand/12%202_zpssyb5yanq.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20stand/12%202_zpssyb5yanq.jpg.html)


http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20stand/14_zps440rssdb.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20stand/14_zps440rssdb.jpg.html)


Here you can see on the bottom the final radius of the ball.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20stand/15_zpsqvaavl4d.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20stand/15_zpsqvaavl4d.jpg.html)

Here is a blurry picture of one section completely profile as compared to the layout.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20stand/16_zpsybmgcwex.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20stand/16_zpsybmgcwex.jpg.html)


Once the curvature of the balls established, next step is to saw the upper surface of this toes square.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20stand/17_zpshppmiew7.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20stand/17_zpshppmiew7.jpg.html)


Here is one of the toes shape round.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20stand/18_zpsmxowtdlv.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20stand/18_zpsmxowtdlv.jpg.html)


From the side you can see the objective is to have the back sections of the ball lower than the front section so they appear to flow together into a circle located directly beneath the claw.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20stand/19%202_zpshowqpesr.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20stand/19%202_zpshowqpesr.jpg.html)

[Mike Allen1010]

Next is carving the toe of the claw. You want the height of all the claws to be equal on all 4 sides – you can see I’m a little bit off here. Throughout the process it'simportant to redraw the reference lines for the height of claws, first knuckle and 2nd knuckle so that as you move forward carving you targets to achieve symmetry.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20stand/20_zpsv4vegbcd.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20stand/20_zpsv4vegbcd.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20stand/21_zpsfz8qlirj.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20stand/21_zpsfz8qlirj.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20stand/22_zpsxlpndkpe.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20stand/22_zpsxlpndkpe.jpg.html)


My suggestion is to do 1 foot all the way through to get comfortable with all the necessary work holding/tools/techniques. After that, it’s easier to do all the remaining feet together in stages so you have the benefit of repeating the same operations which makes it easier to get consistency.


Once the knuckles are established, the next step is carving the web on the leg to blend into the toes. Carving with the grain is important here. Given the compound curves it’s easier for me to start by carving horizontally to establish the web and finish with vertical carving down the length of the leg to blend everything in.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20stand/23_zps6pjgjpn7.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20stand/23_zps6pjgjpn7.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20stand/24.5_zpsq3rdseo8.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20stand/24.5_zpsq3rdseo8.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20stand/24_zpso93pevlw.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20stand/24_zpso93pevlw.jpg.html)


I am a huge fan of card scrapers – curved scrapers are super helpful in smoothing the rough services of the web left by gouges.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20stand/25_zpsemxtr36j.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20stand/25_zpsemxtr36j.jpg.html)

[Mike Allen1010]

Carving the B&C feet is an iterative process. Last step is to try and achieve a clean line between the curve of the ball and the web moving up the feet. My experiences this is never “finished” – at some point you just determine in its good enough and move on.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20stand/26_zpsuatbugyu.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20stand/26_zpsuatbugyu.jpg.html)


http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20stand/27_zpsblaul4wg.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20stand/27_zpsblaul4wg.jpg.html)


http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20stand/29_zpsz2ffvvtm.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20stand/29_zpsz2ffvvtm.jpg.html)


http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20stand/30_zpsfos5v3y8.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20stand/30_zpsfos5v3y8.jpg.html)


http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20stand/31_zpssfdht47k.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20stand/31_zpssfdht47k.jpg.html)


http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20stand/32_zps1hly6z2r.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20stand/32_zps1hly6z2r.jpg.html)


I know it’s hard to look at one component of a build (like these B&C feet) and try and envision how they fit into the overall design. Next step will be gluing up 16/4 Pine/Poplar for the carcass sides and shaping the curves. Classically my understanding is 18th-century American woodworkers shaped carcass sides of solid mahogany stock. That’s not viable for me because I can’t afford it and it seems like a crime to waste all that fantastic mahogany. My plan is to shape the carcass sides out of inexpensive stock and then veneer them with mahogany. I have no idea how that will work but that’s the plan.

Thanks for looking,

All the best, Mike

[Glen Canaday]

Nice feet so far! You're sure there's enough meat left there to support 150lbs of tubey goodness, right?

As an aside, one of my hobbies has been designing and building tube amps for guitar and bass. Sadly, no place to do it and no time to do it in, but I still think about it from time to time.

[Brian Holcombe]

Nice work Mike! You are a machine!

[Ron Bontz]

Hey Mike. Post away. I am supposed to take a class next month on this very thing. So I will watching the step by step. Thank you.

[Derek Cohen]

Any man who loves tube amps and BB King can be forgiven for a lot! Including ball-and-claw feet! :) I'll never make them, but I do admire the way you are going about the, Mike. Keep going - I'm watching.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Don Slaughter]

Your ambitiousness is incredibly infectious, Mike!! I got up & went to the shop after reading this post....cleaned the bench of nearly done's and started a new project!! Never cease to AMAZE! Great stuff...can't wait to see the next posts! THANK YOU

Don

[Brent Cutshall]

Thank you for posting this Mike. This really takes me back, my first foot into woodworking was carving ball-head war clubs that looked like that. The next step was carving animals. Haven't made one in going on ten years. Nice work Mike!

[Phil Mueller]

I'm convinced you are one of those hyperaccelerated aliens from the Planet Scalos...featured on the Star Trek episode "Wink of an eye".

Looking forward to this build...if I can keep up.

[Karl Andersson]

Fantastic work, as usual Mike - you keep saying you're not a wood carver, and yet you carve wood... I think you've arrived.

It isn't French furniture, but Jeffrey Greene's book "American furniture of the 18th century" is really good for showing how the casework was constructed, plus it has a good techniques section including ball feet (in case you don't have the book).

The typo in the subject line instantly made me think of the scene in Monty Python's Life of Brian where the 3 kings were describing the gifts they brought and Brian's mother says "Myrrh, what's that then?" "It's a balm" "what d'er want to give a baby a bomb for? "Not a bomb, a balm, an unguent..." if you haven't seen it, you may want to, what with the holidays coming

looking great, thanks for sharing,
Karl

[Patrick McCarthy]

Mike, I don't know what vitamins you are taking or what energy food diet you are following (other than the occasional IPA bottle we see on the bench) , but I GOTTA GET ME SOME!!! Your output and skill is amazing. Gonna LOVE this thread , as we have all the past ones. You, sir, are becoming an institution!

Hope the boys are home for TG. Thank you and best wishes to the family for the holiday season, Patrick

[David Eisenhauer]

And Buddy Guy and Albert Collins and ,,,,,,,,,,,,. I love the carving and am very interested in seeing the rest of the "bomb". Please don't stop.

[Mike Allen1010]

Nice feet so far! You're sure there's enough meat left there to support 150lbs of tubey goodness, right? As an aside, one of my hobbies has been designing and building tube amps for guitar and bass. Sadly, no place to do it and no time to do it in, but I still think about it from time to time.


Hey Glen,


Excellent question – given the complex curves/short grain of the Cabriolet ball & claw feet, I'm not exactly sure how strong they will be. Given the weight they will need to support (as you know, the architecture/heat heatsinks etc. associated with tube amplifiers are really heavy), I'm thinking about possibly adding a couple rollerball supports to the middle of the carcass bottom. My experience is hi-fi components get moved at least occasionally to plug in new components etc., and the last thing I want is for the B&C feet to fail when that happens. I'm thinking I will wait on this decision until the carcass is built and I can assess how strong it is. I'm hopeful if I need to add the rolling supporting feet under the center of the carcass to would take the weight off the B&C feet, that they won't be too visible unless you are viewing them from a distance. Not and ideal solution, but one on at least considering.


I admire your ability to design/build tube amps for guitar/bass. To me that seems like a combination of voodoo and splitting the atom. I hope you have a chance to get back to it at some point.


All the best, Mike

[Mike Allen1010]

Nice work Mike! You are a machine!


Brian,


I'm a huge fan of your work and really enjoy your website. I particularly admire how you use video to demonstrate your woodworking techniques in real time. For me, there is no substitute for actually watching a talented craftsman like you demonstrate how you build the beautiful furniture, and particularly the meticulous joinery, you do. I always look forward to your posts and read them eagerly.


I am a IT luddite and surprised I'm able to post pics I hope are helpful.


All the best,

[James Pallas]

Very well done Mike. I don't see any weak ankles on those legs. I like the design of your foot a lot.
Jim

[Mike Allen1010]

Hey Mike. Post away. I am supposed to take a class next month on this very thing. So I will watching the step by step. Thank you.

Ron,


As someone with a huge "handsaw problem", I'm a long time fan of your work! I enjoy trying to make my own woodworking tools, and the most relevant thing I have learned is there is a reason why preindustrial woodworkers/toolmakers specialized in particular areas of expertise: IMHO, given the tight tolerance for top-tier work, it's really hard to build back saws/planes that perform to the highest standards, unless that's all you do.


I built a bunch of back saws (that required a ton of time and effort) and ended up with "wavy" plates that didn't work very well. It was only after the fact, I realized I would have been much better off to just buy something from a professional toolmaker like you (or in the case of hand planes someone like Steve Voigt) than to try and attempt a "one off" success on my own.

I guess it's his common today to cynically assume, everyone has some kind of self-serving, commercial motivation for online comments. I can assure sure you I don't . I very much appreciate everything I have learned from SMC. My only motivation in posting is to "pay forward" my own experience and hope it will benefit my fellow Neanders. Most importantly I'm no expert – your mileage may vary.


All the best, Mike

[Mike Allen1010]

Any man who loves tube amps and BB King can be forgiven for a lot! Including ball-and-claw feet! :) I'll never make them, but I do admire the way you are going about the, Mike. Keep going - I'm watching.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek,


It goes without saying I'm a huge fan. I particularly appreciate your endorsement of BB King and tube amplifiers! I think the Cave can always use more musical references - perhaps there is some connection between the creativity/artistic abilities of musicians and woodworkers. I certainly have nothing to offer in either of these areas.


I can't help but think of how great an SMC cocktail party would be! A chance to hang out with the people we have built online relationships with who are interested in the woodworking and related subjects our families are clearly tired of talking about. That said, I'm grateful for our online community.


All the best, Mike

[Mike Allen1010]

Your ambitiousness is incredibly infectious, Mike!! I got up & went to the shop after reading this post....cleaned the bench of nearly done's and started a new project!! Never cease to AMAZE! Great stuff...can't wait to see the next posts! THANK YOU

Don

Don my friend,


Thanks for your very generous comments! I know for a fact you don't need my motivation to create beautiful work. I'm happy I was able play a small part in motivating you to start a new project.


All the best, Mike

[Mike Allen1010]

Fantastic work, as usual Mike - you keep saying you're not a wood carver, and yet you carve wood... I think you've arrived.

The typo in the subject line instantly made me think of the scene in Monty Python's Life of Brian where the 3 kings were describing the gifts they brought and Brian's mother says "Myrrh, what's that then?" "It's a balm" "what d'er want to give a baby a bomb for? "Not a bomb, a balm, an unguent..." if you haven't seen it, you may want to, what with the holidays coming

looking great, thanks for sharing,
Karl


Karl,


I couldn't be more flattered by your generous comments! You are a truly talented artist who I really admire. I'm absolutely confident your skills are clearly out of my league. I strongly encourage everyone here in the Cave to view your threads in the carving forum.


I 'm nowhere near your ability to create artistic, three-dimensional carvings, with your effortless expertise, which my naïve experience suggests must have been acquired over many years. In comparison, I'm merely a mechanic. If you saw how long it takes me to create even the most rudimentary carving, anyone would clearly recognize I'm a hack - just trying to get by using a dimensional/mechanical understanding of what carving is supposed to be.


Thank you for your inspiration to aspire to the highest standards!




All the best, Mike

[Mike Allen1010]

Mike, I don't know what vitamins you are taking or what energy food diet you are following (other than the occasional IPA bottle we see on the bench) , but I GOTTA GET ME SOME!!! Your output and skill is amazing. Gonna LOVE this thread , as we have all the past ones. You, sir, are becoming an institution!

Hope the boys are home for TG. Thank you and best wishes to the family for the holiday season, Patrick

Patrick,


I can assure you I have no magic ingredients, except perhaps a less-than-perfect Work/Life balance now that the LOML and I are empty-nesters. On 2nd thought, perhaps the occasional craft beer is providing some helpful "lubrication"!


Counselor, I rest easy at night knowing you are working to support the forces of justice that preserve our way of life. This is where if I were more technologically adept I would insert a video of "12 Angry Men", or the classic Jack Nicholson scene from "A Few Good Men" - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9FnO3igOkO).


Patrick, my apologies if I'm overstepping my bounds here. My motivations are sincere – I'm lucky to count you among my friends.


All the best, Mike

[Mike Allen1010]

And Buddy Guy and Albert Collins and ,,,,,,,,,,,,. I love the carving and am very interested in seeing the rest of the "bomb". Please don't stop.


David,


You clearly know the Blues! I appreciate your mention of some of the greats!. Is not responsible me to take this thread off track – nonetheless I always appreciate SMC music references!


Best, Mike

[Rob Luter]

Nice work. Out of my range for sure. Fellow tube amp lover here, but the kind you plug guitars into.

[Frederick Skelly]

My God, but you are talented! Another phenomenal build!
Thanks for sharing it with us.
Wow!

[David Eisenhauer]

Damn responsibility. The blues guys are the main reason one gravitates towards hand tool working. Can't listen when all the machinery is running. Don't forget - more "bomb" photos as you work on.

[Mike Allen1010]

Bompe Chest Build – Part #2 Toes of Ball & Claw Feet and Bompe Carcass Sides

A couple more things related to carving the B&C feet I neglected to mention in my previous post that may be helpful for those interested in adding a little carving to their furniture projects:

1. One of the biggest barrier that prevented me from getting started with carving was I didn’t really know what carving tools I needed and I assumed I would need a lot to really try and carve anything. These are the tools I use for 99% of the carving: gouges # 2, # 3, # 5, # 11, a couple bench chisels, half round rasps and a file, card scrapers and sandpaper.


http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/1%202_zpsesqrhrmh.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/1%202_zpsesqrhrmh.jpg.html)

2. What I’ve learned from my limited experience is buy the carving tools you’ll need to do a specific project and build from there. With a little practice, you’ll be surprised at what you can do with relatively limited kit. Secondly, rasps/files are your friend. Using a gouge to carve the upper surface of curved elements isn’t always the best choice, particularly if the grain isn’t cooperating. I’m not sure if true carvers would consider that “cheating”, but it’s been helpful for me.

3. It’s worth it to spend a little time to make a durable template for your carving projects. Initially I tried to shortcut this step by using paper drawings for layout. For me using two-dimensional paper to layout three-dimensional carving designs was problematic. The other plus is that over time you will build a set of templates you can use for future projects.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/1_zpsm3ag07g2.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/1_zpsm3ag07g2.jpg.html)


http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/2_zps6qddq4zv.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/2_zps6qddq4zv.jpg.html)

4. A key part of the layout/carving of symmetrical B&C feet are the 2 concentric circles on the bottom that represent the diameter of the ball at the midpoint and diameter at the floor. I suggest you leave final shaping of the ball to the correct diameter at the floor until after you finish the claws. You want all these finished surfaces to meet in a nice circle and shaping the claws may require removing more wood than you anticipate.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/5_zpsc6wkxhza.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/5_zpsc6wkxhza.jpg.html)


http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/6_zpsimeez7o1.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/6_zpsimeez7o1.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/7_zpslmptplrv.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/7_zpslmptplrv.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/8_zpsjyfjdyqh.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/8_zpsjyfjdyqh.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/7c0efb44-4207-42f0-9806-b37f305e75c3_zps7r7bgmi1.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/7c0efb44-4207-42f0-9806-b37f305e75c3_zps7r7bgmi1.jpg.html)

[Mike Allen1010]

As I mentioned in the first part of this thread, the sides and front of the carcass for a Bompe chest curve so the chest seems sort of “swollen” nearest the floor. I made a template for this curve using a beam compass and a French curve. The radius of the curve at the bottom is smaller than the radius for the upper part of the curve and that required more than a little bit of experimenting to get the right template. Probably makes more sense when you see the pics. I’m not sure if the shape of the curve I came up with is classically “correct”, but it looks okay to me.

I want the finished thickness of the carcass sides to be 1 ½” to provide the necessary strength for a heavy load after the sliding dovetail sockets are cut for the horizontal shelves/rails. With my curve, that means I need a total thickness of~3 ¾” for the rough stock at the height of the curve. I’m planning to veneer the carcass sides so I’m gluing up 12/4 Poplar with 6/4 laminated on top for the widest section. Frankly, I would’ve preferred pine as it’s easier to work and not nearly as heavy to move around. Here’s some pictures of dimensioning.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/10_zpsxfwr4mwl.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/10_zpsxfwr4mwl.jpg.html)


http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/11_zpskedizq7b.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/11_zpskedizq7b.jpg.html)


http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/12_zpsiyfszha8.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/12_zpsiyfszha8.jpg.html)


A coarse pitch crosscut saw comes in really handy when dimensioning stock this thick. This is a 5 PPI, 28” D-8. It was originally sold in a rip tooth configuration, which I converted to crosscut. I actually use this saw a lot more than I thought I would.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/13_zpsai7li5ff.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/13_zpsai7li5ff.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/14_zpsitl1nups.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/14_zpsitl1nups.jpg.html)


Here are the 2 pieces of the carcass side that will be glued together. I clamp them together to joint in hopes of getting a solid glue line.


http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/15_zpspgdlmj8s.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/15_zpspgdlmj8s.jpg.html)

A #6 fore plane comes in handy for leveling the surface after glue up.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/16_zpsfoyelght.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/16_zpsfoyelght.jpg.html)


Here is the lamination to get final thickness with the template to layout the curve of the carcass side.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/18_zpszjfaukzc.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/18_zpszjfaukzc.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/19_zpsbkivqed8.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/19_zpsbkivqed8.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Music%20chest%202/20_zpstvdecvlf.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Music%20chest%202/20_zpstvdecvlf.jpg.html)


I think I'lll try and add cock beading to the shelves and inside edge of the carcass sides, so I’ll need to glue a piece of solid mahogany to the front edge of the carcass sides. I probably should’ve thought of that before laying out the curve on the front edge of the carcass sides – oops!

I’ll make a series of cross cuts just shy of the layout line and try to split out the bulk of the waste with chisels, gouges etc. A table saw or circular saw would sure be handy to make these cross cuts, but since I don’t have either, it’s going to be a lot of sweating and sawdust with hand saws! To tell the truth, not sure if I’m looking forward to that or not!

Joinery will be a sliding dovetail for the top of the chest and a series of M&T’s for the bottom. This will let me extend the bottom of the case beyond the sides of the carcass so I can shape the curved into the end grain, which I hope will be a lot easier than trying to make some kind of curved molding. Now that I think about it, I'll have to do that for the front of the chest anyway. The profile of the front of the chest is supposed to be more “serpentine”, as compared to the two-dimensional curve along the carcass sides. I haven’t even thought about laying out that curve yet, which is almost certainly a mistake. I’ll have to work out some kind of template which will surely be an adventure in itself!

Thanks for looking. More to follow as I make progress – unless my attempts at making these curved parts turns the whole thing into firewood. Wish me luck, I’m certainly going to need it!

All the best, Mike

[Allen Jordan]

Great work on those, incredible attention to detail on your carving.