Is changing the tension spring hard to do

[Dave Macy]

I'm beyond frustrated with the G0555 that I have, so I ordered the iturra high tension spring for it, but is it difficult to swap out? Any tips on doing this because I really want this saw to be ok for me. Otherwise I'm going to have to start looking for a 16 or 17".... I just don't have the ability to drop 2K on a new bs. Main goal is resawing walnut and oak (6" if on the G0555 but if go to a 16 or 17" then it would be 8-10"). Thx

[John TenEyck]

An Iturra spring alone isn't going to make your saw capable of resawing. You also need a sharp blade; a 1/2" x 3 tpi bimetal blade would be a good choice. And your saw needs to be really well tuned so that it cuts straight. You have little margin for error with that saw as it only has a 1 HP motor. And even with the Iturra spring you won't be able to get more than about 12K psi on the blade. Fortunately, that's enough if you go slowly. I used to regularly resaw and slice veneer on my Delta 14" with riser, often in 10"+ wide stock, so it can be done, slowly.

John

[Dave Macy]

Thanks. I have a new sharp iturra bladerunnef but I hadn't been able to get the tension I need for a 3/4" thin kerf blade. Hoping the zpring helps. I'm still in school so don't have a lot of money but don't want to keep throwing money at this saw if i have no help of getting it to where i need it to be. Swapping the spring intimidates me though since I'm not good with mechanical things. I worry about getting it apart and not being able to get it back together

[Dave Cav]

I think a 3/4" blade is too wide for that saw. I doubt if you will ever be able to get adequate tension on it. A 1/2" resaw blade should work fine.

[Van Huskey]

Take a look at this video, the BS in the video is a Delta but in general the process is the same, the guy in the video is also replacing the tension adjustment rod but only because it is broken.

[Jerry Thompson]

Where is the video link?

[Dave Macy]

Take a look at this video, the BS in the video is a Delta but in general the process is the same, the guy in the video is also replacing the tension adjustment rod but only because it is broken.
Thanks. Do you have a link? I hope you realize how much we, or at least I, have learned from reading all of your posts. I don't know how you know all of this stuff but thanks.

[Van Huskey]

Duh, brain fart.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=76QQHfRDJ2I&t=550s

[Nick Stokes]

Duh, brain fart.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=76QQHfRDJ2I&t=550s


I can confirm that the stock G0555 with a decent 1/2" resaw blade works great for walnut and oak, or whatever else will fit inside of 6".

If you're still using the blade that came with the saw, then, it'll make you want to throw the bandsaw back on a boat to china.

[Van Huskey]

I can confirm that the stock G0555 with a decent 1/2" resaw blade works great for walnut and oak, or whatever else will fit inside of 6".

If you're still using the blade that came with the saw, then, it'll make you want to throw the bandsaw back on a boat to china.

Honestly, the cheapest and easiest solution is to just get the correct blade versus changing the spring which could potentially lead to bending the tension arm. The blade is a consumable so you will have to change it at some point anyway. I am honestly surprised Louis Iturra recommended a 3/4" blade even if it is .022 gauge.

[Wade Lippman]

Just curious... If the saw could handle a stiffer spring, wouldn't Grizzly put it on originally? Maybe I just understand.

[lowell holmes]

I use 3/8 and sometimes 1/2 inch blades on my 14" Jet band saw. It does not handle 3/4" blades well. I have no issues with re-sawing.

I don't expect to clean up the re-saw surfaces with a skim pass through my thickness planer.

[glenn bradley]

Bandsaw blades, size, tension and alignment threads can swing from one extreme to the other. I run a low tension 1/2" blade on a 1940's Delta 14" without issue. I do have a 2HP motor on it but, blade speed is stock. Even at only 6" of height, anything over a 2-3 TPI blade leaves too many teeth in the cut for me. It is also ill advised to watch a bandsaw mill video and expect that kind of feed speed from a saw without an internal combustion engine ;-).

On my 17" 2HP Griz I run a 3/4" 2-3 variable pitch blade and feed about an inch per second if not slower. I can go faster but, the blade can't get the spoil out of the way fast enough and feed deviation, rough finish or even burning can result. Put a good low tooth count blade on your saw that doesn't require a lot of tension, don't overdrive your headlights and all should be well.

[Dave Macy]

Honestly, the cheapest and easiest solution is to just get the correct blade versus changing the spring which could potentially lead to bending the tension arm. The blade is a consumable so you will have to change it at some point anyway. I am honestly surprised Louis Iturra recommended a 3/4" blade even if it is .022 gauge.

I'm going to try both the new spring and a 1/2" but yeah, it was Louis (although he said there are 3 Louises that work there). I questioned him over and over but he said he knew the saw well and thinks that most new bandsaws ship with a week spring. When I get home from school tomorrow I'm going to try to remove it.

[Van Huskey]

Just curious... If the saw could handle a stiffer spring, wouldn't Grizzly put it on originally? Maybe I just understand.

First, you may want to read through Louis Iturra's discussion of this in his "catalog" if you can't find a downloadable copy via google I will track down a link.

The issue is manufacturers do not agree their spring is too weak, and their opinion may be hedged against the weak point of these saws which is the tension arm. They get bent, cracked or broken when too much tension is on the saw, if it happens even with an aftermarket spring many people will still blame the manufacturer since their part is what failed. If you ever see the inside front door of one of these saws with paint rubbed off by the wheel you know exactly what happened to that saw at some point. People forget the basic Delta 14" cast saw was developed about 80 years ago for use with a 1/4" blade and while the strength of the overall saw has varied up and down over the years within Delta and other manufacturers the fact is users are pushing these saws far beyond their original design parameters and while you can get them to do many things it is important to understand how hard one is pushing this design.

[John K Jordan]

... the weak point of these saws which is the tension arm. They get bent, cracked or broken when too much tension is on the saw, if it happens even with an aftermarket spring many people will still blame the manufacturer since their part is what failed. ...

This happened years ago to my 14" Delta. The tension arm bent so the saw couldn't be tightened properly. The saw went from OK to unusable - wouldn't cut straight, bowed with thick wood, couldn't resaw. I bought a replacement part from Iturra, added his spring (easy to do both), and quit using blades over 1/2" wide. I also spent some time tuning the saw to coplanar, adjusting the guides, adding a riser block, and installing sawdust brushes and a quick tension release lever. This is a wonderful saw now, although not used as much since I got an 18" saw.

JKJ

[Russell Stanton]

Does anyone have a phone number or web address for Itura?

[John K Jordan]

Does anyone have a phone number or web address for Itura?

I have 904-642-2802. No web site that I know of. The last email address I used was KALLL@comcast.net but it's been years.

JKJ

[lowell holmes]

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/search.aspx?find=tension+spring

I changed the tension spring on my 14" Jet BS. It was not difficult to do. IIRC, it took less the 2 hours. That is after I figured out how to approach it.