need to shim bottom wheel of grizzly g0555

[Dave Macy]

I went to put on a new Iturra 3/4" woodslicer blade last night and decided it would be a good time to shim my bottom wheel with a washer or two. I started to get the wheel off but am confused. There is some type of slot in the wheel and a slot in the stub with a piece of metal I guess which keeps the wheel stuck to the stub. Do I just pull it off? What about the belt that is to the left behind the wheel? It seemed like that was holding the wheel on too. I'm worried if I get this stuff apart that I won't be able to get it back on. My dad has no idea and my friend who has been my woodworking tutor has never done this. Thanks

[Bill White]

My first comment is that a 3/4" blade on the 0555 is not a great idea. I use 1/2" max on my 0555LX.
The wheel and shaft are "keyed". The key keeps the wheel from turning on the shaft.
Wheel should pull straight off the shaft once the retaining nut is removed. Some have had to use a device called a wheel or bearing puller if the wheel is stuck or resistant to easy pull.
BTW, Grizzly has excellent tech service folks. Don't hesitate to call 'em if ya have a problem.
Bill

[Van Huskey]

Bill gave good advice all the way around.


The Woodslicer which I think Iturra calls a Bladerunner is a fairly thin gauge band but the 1/2" version is actually a better choice for any of the 14" cast clones of the Delta.

Chances are the wheel will slide off reasonably easily ones the nut is removed just make sure you don't lose the key and you will have to put it back into the keyway when finished. If you have issue be careful when using a gear puller and seat the fingers on the wheel carefully as to not make a mess of things.

Now, the real issue why are you planning to shim the wheel? What issue are you trying to fix?

[Dave Macy]

I went with the 3/4" because that's what Iturra recommended to me. I questioned them about it after reading the 1/2" is preferred but they said since the blade is so thin that I should be the 3/4". Bummer.

The problem I'm trying to solve is that the blade seems to track to the front, dangerously, when I run the saw. I've only had it a few weeks. With a small blade on it i guess that's ok but when it's a 3/4" it seems like its going to come off. I think someone said that they are not colinear?

[Van Huskey]

First have you tried to bring the blade to the center with tracking turning the tracking knob clockwise should move the blade back. The issues with co-planer wheels are one it is usually overblown as the root of issues and two unless you have verified the wheels are not co-planer then you have as much chance of making the problem worse than actually fixing it.

While I don't agree with Alex on everything this is a good video on the setup of the 14" cast iron Delta clone saws.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU

[Dave Macy]

Thanks, will watch it. I hate to say it but I never realized that nob changes the top wheel. That fixed the problem I was trying to solve. Thank you.

I checked the 3/4 iturra is the same length as the 3/8 blade that the saw came with. What I don't understand is that I can't even get close to getting it tight enough. Not even in the same ballpark. At this point I think I made a huge mistake.