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View Full Version : Assembly jig (square blocks) for ply box or drawer - Quick urgent Question



laura vianello
11-14-2016, 12:04 PM
Hello,
I built 4 great wood jigs to help me to assembly boxes. I decided that for most of the assembly going forward I will use also glue. Well, the problem is that the jigs are wood and if the glue drops out of the joint and on the jig I am assembly a ply box or drawer to a jig, which is not what I obviously want.
How can I make my wood jig glue-proof? Would poly spray work? Wax? Please help

Alan Schwabacher
11-14-2016, 12:07 PM
Clear packing tape.

Prashun Patel
11-14-2016, 12:09 PM
There are several ways:

1) Wax your jigs
2) Finish them with shellac
3) Line them with packing tape.

laura vianello
11-14-2016, 2:04 PM
Here my jigs pictures. I do not think the tape is an option. I have some shellac but I never use it...maybe wax will be faster. I was hoping for some spray kind of things so it is more uniform. Thanks so much for your help.

Steve Eure
11-14-2016, 2:35 PM
Ok, third attempt. Try wax paper between work piece and jig.

laura vianello
11-14-2016, 2:44 PM
I think that wax paper will not work. The block on the top is maple too. While I can put wax paper on the bottom before installing the block with the pin, I cannot protect the sides of the block with wax paper. It would be quite cumbersome to protect so many sides. I might have to change the jig material and design. Any suggestion of smart diy jigs which would not require crazy advanced tools (like a table saw)?
Thanks

Don Bunce
11-14-2016, 8:31 PM
You could try cutting away the corners so the glue would not contact the jig, something like this:

https://d2pbmlo3fglvvr.cloudfront.net/product/full/Z_o2t-lcpEx_.JPG

laura vianello
11-14-2016, 10:16 PM
That is a good idea but it is hard now to remove the corner. The corner was keeping my pieces perfectly 90 degrees flash to each other. I have applied wax, Let's see what happened. I might do a second set the way you shown. Thanks!!

Larry Frank
11-15-2016, 8:18 AM
I think cutting away a small part of the corner is a good idea. I do that on my jigs and it helps with alignment. It is too easy to get a small bit of something in the corner and cause a problem.

I use shellac to finish jigs and then paste wax. I also use Press n Seal instead of wax paper. It is much thinner and works better.

Press n Seal is one of those kitchen supplies that I use in my shop. It also works well for holding things together. We use it in the kitchen and has replaced Glad wrap.

Al Launier
11-15-2016, 8:29 AM
I also think removing part of the corner is a good idea, but if you can't, for whatever reason, remove the corner, you could bevel the intersecting corners instead. If you are concerned about losing "square" when removing the pieces to bevel, you could dowel the pieces together before taking them apart to ensure they go back together square. The beveled edges would allow room for the glue & you could then scrape off any built-up glue after glue-up.

glenn bradley
11-15-2016, 9:10 AM
That is a good idea but it is hard now to remove the corner. The corner was keeping my pieces perfectly 90 degrees flash to each other. I have applied wax, Let's see what happened. I might do a second set the way you shown. Thanks!!

Drill it with a Forstner bit. The corner should be open for more than just glue clearance. You want to avoid misalignment due to any spoil getting in that area. As to making glue pop off; my workbench is finished with BLO and then paste wax. Glue drips pop right off and have for years. I refresh the wax about once a year.

laura vianello
11-15-2016, 12:03 PM
Al, I waxed and worked well. However, I want to follow your suggestion with the next set. Would you have a pic to show? Not sure I understand how I can bevel or I can dowel....Not sure. I am using pocket screws after gluing. Remember I am a newbie

laura vianello
11-16-2016, 3:01 PM
Thanks!!! I will do that with my nexxt set. I need to buy the Forstner bits. I have none. Suggestion for good brand?

Al Launier
11-18-2016, 11:00 AM
In Glenn's sketch you could bevel the corner where he shows the drilled hole. Additionally, if you should get glue along the bottom inside edge of each "side-piece" & the bottom plate, you could bevel allong the bottom inside inside edge of each piece. The bevels could be easily done with a table saw. The dowelling could be done after you have assembeled the pieces square & secured them. Then, should you have to take things apart, the dowells will for a sqwuare re-assembly. You could wax the bevelled surfaces to prevent glue adhesion.

laura vianello
11-19-2016, 9:22 AM
I do not feel comfortable using a table saw. It is too much of a hassle to take it outside and set it up (I do not have a workshop). My projects (bigger than me!!!) are done at lunch time between work hours. I need to find ways to get fast! forgot to mention that the purpose of my jig is not just keeping the pieces squared together but also avoiding one to move to far from the edge of the other. If I remove the corner, the pieces will move forward when not intentended. I have tons of scrap wood and I can build others. Any pic of good assembly jigs? should I start a post "show me your jig"?

laura vianello
11-19-2016, 9:24 AM
By the way, thanks so much for your suggestions!! I love this forum ! I always found great people willing to share their knowledge.

richard b miller
02-13-2017, 11:33 AM
Glen you mentioned your workbench is finished with BLO, what is that?
Thanks

Ken Fitzgerald
02-13-2017, 11:41 AM
Richard, BLO = boiled linseed oil

Bruce Wrenn
02-13-2017, 10:45 PM
Why not drill double pocket holes and use Kreg right angle clamp in one hole and pocket screw in the other?

Rick Potter
02-14-2017, 1:01 PM
Another one in favor of having an open area in the corner. I use a drawer jig, sort of like the right angle one you show but larger, and it tends to get build up in the corner. I keep cleaning it out with a chisel, but I plan to rebuild it with a relief area. I also plan to use formica on the base, so glue will come right off. Melamine will work for a while, but eventually dried glue will make the coating pop off in spots...I have a whole workbench top that has done that.

Glen, thanks for the idea about the forstner bit in the corner. I will do that today.