Rusty Veneer Scraper

[John Towns]

On Friday, I went to a yard sale and picked up a few items, one of which is a veneer scraper. It has not markings on it that I have found:
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It was (still is for that matter) pretty rusty and just about everything on it was stuck. I was able to successfully free the angle adjusting screws and the screw holding the blade in place.
My first question is...the blade holder (not sure what to call it) remains fairly well tight. I am able to move it but only when 'tapping' it with a small hammer which is not ideal. I have it loaded with penetrating oil to see if I can free it up. Any suggestions would be welcomed!

Also, when I was removing the handle, one screw came free but the other would not. I used penetrating oil, applied a small amount of heat and tried it. I thought I had it but here is what happened:
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I guess I will need to have it drilled out. Never have done that. I only paid $5 for it so I am not going to stress about this. Any thoughts or suggestions would be welcome!!

John

[Jim Koepke]

I guess I will need to have it drilled out. Never have done that. I only paid $5 for it so I am not going to stress about this. Any thoughts or suggestions would be welcome!!

The way you word that sounds like you do not have a drill press or the tools to do the work. Do you know a machinist who does this kind of work?

I have bought some special drills for this kind of work:

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The bottom three bits in the picture are left hand bits. They were purchased for the purpose of screw extraction. Most AC motors have a couple of connections to reverse the rotation. My plan is to install a reversing switch on my drill press. So far with a bit of care it has been possible to use a center punch, cordless drill and if needed an ezy-out to remove screws. Often when drilling a screw the heat and friction of the drill will loosen a jammed screw.

Another method I have used in the past when other tools weren't available is to soak the screw as much as possible with a penetrating oil, then apply a bit of heat. With a bit of care a pair of wire cutters can be used to pinch the top of the screw and turn it out. The problem with this is there has to be enough of the screw to grab and it can make a mess of things before it gets to the drill and ezy-out method.

If you do know a machinist or have a friend who does mechanical work, maybe they'll do it for a six pack or other bribe. The hard part, if it is a Stanley, will be finding a screw to fit the original threads.

Good luck,

jtk

[Bruce Haugen]

I would take it to a machinist. They work wonders with situations like this. I once had a broken off bolt in a motorcycle brake assembly. The machinist told me to come back in the afternoon, but he had the bolt out before I walked out the door.

[Glen Canaday]

If all else fails, the iron is worth that money all by itself.

[Dave Parkis]

I use Kroil on frozen screws. Put a couple drops where needed and let it sit overnight. As for the one that's broken, be VERY careful who you have work on it. I had a 604 that the tote screw broke on and a guy who was supposed to be a machinist pretty much ruined the plane.

[Jim Koepke]

I use Kroil on frozen screws. Put a couple drops where needed and let it sit overnight. As for the one that's broken, be VERY careful who you have work on it. I had a 604 that the tote screw broke on and a guy who was supposed to be a machinist pretty much ruined the plane.

That is why we must always be aware of every trade having its own collection of incompetents. ("Well of course the plane body was broken to bits. I thought you just wanted to get the screw out.")

It is also why most of the time I have tried to learn to do these things for myself.

jtk