Stanley miter box question

[Phil Mueller]

I have a Stanley 2358 miter box, just cleaned up and in pretty good working order, in spite of a few missing parts.

I can't figure out how to adjust the saw to a perfect vertical position.

Here is the result of five cuts:

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Not surprising, given the vertical alignment:

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I assume the saw back rides on top of the adjustment nut? If so, the nut screws in completely without touching the saw plate:

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Here's the nut...is it incomplete, or worn? Or am I not setting up/adjusting this correctly?

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Thanks for any help!
Phil

[Jim Koepke]

Phil,

This gives me a reason to go look at my Stanley miter boxes to see if it has the same kind of adjuster.

My miter box has the same nut/screw/bearing. On mine it looks like that is for the back of the saw to ride upon. Strange that one side has a hole in the middle that looks like it can be adjusted with a punch and the other side doesn't. A punch was tried without success.

Would it be possible to shim the wooden deck on one end to correct the out of square situation?

jtk

[Phil Mueller]

Thanks Jim, I too tried a punch (light taps) to see if the center would protrode...and too, had no success.

The shim under the wooden deck could be a great solution. Thanks.
Phil

[steven c newman]

Vertical adjustments are located a lot lower....like at the bases of the rods the guides ride on. Note the three bolts on the block of steel? You loosen the center one, then tighten the left or right bolt to adjust how the rods lean. Then tighten the center bolt back up. Repeat for the rear guide. "Bearing" is only for the saw's back to ride on. Less wear & tear on guides and saw that way.

Mine is a Stanley No. 358..
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New deck, fabbed the stock holders..
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One big mitre box...

[Phil Mueller]

Steven, I'm sorry, I don't see the three bolts...
Thank you.

[steven c newman]

The three bolts are right at the base of the guide rods..
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And there is a angled block sitting there. The center bolt loosens or tightens the block itself.
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The two outside bolts have pointed ends on them, and bear against the angled part of the block. Run one bolt in a bit, will tilt the guide assembly away from it. Loosen it a bit, and the guide will tilt back towards that looser bolt.

[Phil Mueller]

Steven, thanks for the additional photos...I know how going up and down the stairs can be a bit tough for you these days.
Unfortunately, the Stanley 2358 doesn't have those adjusters...wish it did!

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[Phil Mueller]

Jim, wedging the one side of the wooden deck worked perfectly. Next deck I make, I'll have to plane it with the adjusted angle.
Thanks!
Phil

[Stewie Simpson]

Phil; what's the bottom hole used for.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=347409&d=1479076954

[Phil Mueller]

Stewie, I believe this is for a piece to set a depth of cut (dado, whatever). One of the missing parts....

[J. Greg Jones]

A couple of things. First, this model does not have any means for screw adjustment like the Stanley model that Steven posted pictures for. The nut that you posted a picture of is a bearing. As you know, there are 4 total, two each side front and rear, and the spine of the saw rides on them. Mine have no such holes as do yours, but in full disclosure mine is a Montgomery Ward model of the 2358 made by Stanley. It would be a good idea to check all four to see if they are clean and turn freely, but I doubt this is your problem. I can take 1-2 of these out of my saw and it still cuts square.

The (missing) depth stops are not only for depth cuts (dados), but also to limit the depth of cut into the base board.

The one challenge of shimming the base board is that it will likely not result in square cuts when making miters. It might be worthwhile to experiment with swapping the bearings to different locations and see if the cuts change.

[Jim Koepke]

The one challenge of shimming the base board is that it will likely not result in square cuts when making miters. It might be worthwhile to experiment with swapping the bearings to different locations and see if the cuts change.

For me, the sawing gets it close and the precision is done with a shooting board, a miter saw's best friend. For rough work off the saw is fine for furniture or cabinets off a plane is a bit nicer.

jtk