My unusual plane

[James Pallas]

I decided I wanted to try a Japanese style plane. Looked at prices and chose to go my own way. Had some hickory, bought a Hock Krenov style blade and went to work. Never made a plane before. Read some about them here on SMC. Went ahead my own path. Shoot for 50 degrees, ended up about 51, the best I could measure. Here is what I have. No tuning didn't hone the blade. Gave it a try. Works pretty good raw. Should be much better after a little tuning.347394347395
Jim

[Brent Cutshall]

Looks great James, I've never tried to make a Japanese plane. I ought to one day.

[James Pallas]

Looks great James, I've never tried to make a Japanese plane. I ought to one day.
Thank you Brent. I would guess that Japanese plane makers and users would roll their eyes a bit about calling it a Japanese plane. It is a fun build and I'm learning a good bit about full mortise planes and I'll learn more as I work to get it in working form.
Jim

[Brent Cutshall]

Do you know Drew Langsner? He owns a few Japanese planes that were made by a master in the art, they don't look much different from yours aside from rounded edges. He said the irons were sharpened to a chamfer(or camber) that would be like a 3 inch section from the side of a 100 yard circle (my dimensions of the circle might be off, but it was a huge circle). Yeah, it is fun making planes, don't mean I'm good at it though.

[Patrick Chase]

Do you know Drew Langsner? He owns a few Japanese planes that were made by a master in the art, they don't look much different from yours aside from rounded edges. He said the irons were sharpened to a chamfer(or camber) that would be like a 3 inch section from the side of a 100 yard circle (my dimensions of the circle might be off, but it was a huge circle). Yeah, it is fun making planes, don't mean I'm good at it though.

Assuming that's a diameter it's on the upper end of what makes sense. A 3" wide blade with a 50-yard (1800") camber radius bedded at 50 deg would cut 0.5 mil (13 microns) deeper in the center than at the corners. It would work OK for ultra-fine smoothing, though IMO it's pointless to try for contant-radius cambers when you get to that point.

[Brent Cutshall]

I didn't understand it either. He said it took a specific stone with the reverse of that camber to sharpen it properly. And if my dimensions were correct, the camber depth would be about .000625 of an inch:D. (Sorry, I had to do that)