Newbie Question on Drying Logs

[Steve Siwek]

Hi Everyone,

First, I apologize for starting a new topic that has other topics already in existence. But as I read those posts I became even more confused. An old oak tree in my neighborhood was cut down a few days ago and this morning I grabbed a few of the logs. 8"-14" inches in diameter and 24"-36" tall (and some smaller pieces). I would like to cut them up for a variety of projects such as serving plates, desk clocks, etc. I've read people suggest applying PEG, Denatured Alchol, or Anchor Seal on the ends to help to prevent splitting.

Then I read how people drill into the center of the logs, slice the logs into blanks, keep them in the basement, etc. to help with cracking.

My question is, what the heck do I do when I get home tonight? I'm confused lol. Do I get a sealant and apply it to all the ends and then let the wood dry out in my garage?, do I have to soak the logs in a chemical solution, do I need to do some other technique to help limit the amount of spitting.

Thanks for the help!
Steve

[Jamie Buxton]

Drying time of wood goes up with thickness. If you leave it in log form, it will take many years to dry. It is also likely to crack. A better course is to cut the logs into pieces that are more the size you plan to use. For instance if you're going to make furniture you might slice the log into 4/4 or 6/4 thickness, then dry those.

Yes, Anchor Seal on the ends will reduce end checking.

[John K Jordan]

Steve, I process a LOT of small log sections like that plus I have a woodmiser sawmill.

You will have less end grain cracking and checking if you immediately seal the ends of the logs. This is especially important for short log sections since you can't really afford to lose much of the length. If you don't seal and the log sits for a while, expect to cut off and throw away six inches or so from each end.

As mentioned, the log sections will still crack badly unless cut into smaller pieces to relieve the stresses of drying. I usually slice the pieces up into turning blanks, being careful to not include pith in any, then seal the end grain with a wax emulaion such as Anchorseal or other green wood sealer (available from Woodcraft and elsewhere). I also seal any knots and wild grain. I then stack the blanks loosely on a wire shelf and let them air dry for some years depending on the size and the species. Some of the wood I'm turning now has been drying for 10 years. I use a moisture meter to check dryness.

When cutting into boards or slabs on either the sawmill, bandsaw, or chainsaw, be aware that flatsawn/plainsawn boards (where the rings on the endgrain look like long arcs) will try to warp more than quartersawn (where the rings go mostly across from one face of the board to the other) unless the boards are constrained from warping.

If you cut a log section into boards, you should immediately sticker them (put small, say 1"x1" wood spacing sticks between the boards to allow air circulation) then compress the stack with heavy weghts, clamps, or ratchet straps. The more pressure the better. I usually stack outside in the shade, protected from rain, weighted with concrete blocks, but inside is fine. Don't stack directly on concrete in a basement without some moisture barrier. Let air dry. The simplified "rule of thumb" is dry for 1 year for each 1" of thickness plus 1 year (3 years for a 2" thick piece) but there are lot of variables. I'd make sure the stack has plenty of air citculation but avoid direct heat such as next to a stove or register. If you compress the stack with clamps or straps be sure to retighten occasionally since they will loosen as the wood drys and shrinks.

Wood drying can be complicated but the simple stack-and-air-dry usually works ok.

JKJ

[Bob Bouis]

Steve,

If I can summarize my experience: you can't dry logs. They self destruct as they dry, if they don't rot first. The wood will discolor from fungus and bugs will eat it. This happens fast. You have to cut logs up to dry them, the sooner the better. And that's really hard to do. If you're not going to be able to cut them up soon, you should just toss them. Oak isn't particularly valuable or hard to find.

You'll probably be able to find cheap, already cut hobby lumber on Craigslist.

[Robert Engel]

What he ^ said is exactly correct IMO.

I would peal the bark off, split or cut out the blanks, seal them and stow away for 2-10 years.

[David Mealey]

Steve,

I'd suggest reading Scott S.s thread on this forum, "Misc. Factors on Drying Lumbar". Best primer on cutting, and drying and processing logs to lumbar I've come across. Lot's of pertinent experience and I reference it as I learn more from personal experience. For small turning pieces or small boards, drying indoors is fine but any longer boards or slabs need ample air circulation and I'd find a covered outdoor space and sticker the stack correctly and the sooner the better.

David M.