Which electric switch?

[Mark Gibney]

I'm fixing up a jointer and the on / off switch buttons are in poor shape.

Do I try to get new buttons (where? what do I ask for?) or do I need a whole new switch box?


347245

Or do I just use a paddle on / off switch instead? The motor is 240 volt, 1 1/2 hp.

thank you

[Keith Hankins]

I'm not an expert on this switch but that looks like a contactor which a simple on/off will not work. I'd go over to owwm group

http://www.owwm.org/

and somoene will help. They have a classifieds forum called bring out your dead and switches often show up for sell.

I'd start there.

[Malcolm McLeod]

Do I try to get new buttons (where? what do I ask for?) or do I need a whole new switch box?

You can usually find replacement "operators" (just the portion that your finger touches and the mounting ring/nuts that hold it in the box cover). Expect to pay $5-$8 for each. They are sized by the diameter of the hole in the cover. (These look to be 30.5mm, but that's just eye-ball guess, based on relative scale of the starter.) Next smaller size is 22mm.

I can't tell from the photo, but major suppliers are SquareD/Schneider, Allen-Bradley, Cutler-Hammer, Siemens, and Eaton. This looks American, so you can probably scratch Siemens. Eaton may be too new for this vintage?? Doesn't look like A-B. ...So maybe SqD or CH. It is most likely the operators are from the same manufacturer as the starter, so look for a label on the side or back, then find a local distributor.

[Rich Riddle]

The switch you have is far superior to a simple paddle switch. With the one pictured, if the tool loses power, then even if the electricity comes back on, the circuit must be re-energized. With a simple paddle switch, if you lose electricity for a moment, the moment the electricity returns, your tool is once again powered unless you turned it off after losing power.

[Bill Space]

The switch you have is far superior to a simple paddle switch. With the one pictured, if the tool loses power, then even if the electricity comes back on, the circuit must be re-energized. With a simple paddle switch, if you lose electricity for a moment, the moment the electricity returns, your tool is once again powered unless you turned it off after losing power.

What Rich says is true, but how often do you experience a power failure while operating machines in your shop? I never have personally.

A paddle switch does offer a better opportunity to shut the machine down if an urgent need arises. Often using a body part other than one's hand. More difficult to do this with the control box in your picture, but not impossible.

If it were me, I would replace the box with a modern paddle switch setup, IF the modern switch would handle the load adequately. I do not think 1.5 HP would be an issue.

The existing control set up has relay contacts that also should be checked, and if they need replaced that will be an added expense.

In my case I have never felt the need for an industrial type start/stop circuit on my workshop tools, but it cannot hurt to have it. So restoring what you have is not a negative. Simplicity has something going for it as well however.

I would install a paddle switch and never look back...:)

Edit: You imply but do not specify that the motor is single phase. IF it is three phase then your best option is likely to repair and use what you have. IF single phase, I would use the paddle switch. My 5 HP Grizzly table saw uses a paddle switch at 220 volts with no problem. I don't think it has a relay, but come to think of it I never checked! However a simple paddle switch should work fine on 1.5 HP, 220 volts single phase.