Wolverine platform angle

[Aaron Craven]

I'm having trouble figuring out how to semi-precisely set the angle of my wolverine platform relative to the surface of my grinding wheel. Specifically, I would like to set it at 90 degrees to set the grind on a parting tool, though I have other uses in mind as well. Since the wheel is round, I'm having trouble figuring out how square the platform accurately.

Obviously, there are better choices out there (robo-rest being the obvious option), but I don't really have the spare funds at the moment.

[Eugene Dixon]

I made a jig that lets me lay my parting tool on its side for grinding. I set the platform just below centerline of the wheel (based on tool thickness) and hold the jig on the platform at an angle to the wheel consistent with the parting tool cutting face. Works for me.

[Aaron Craven]

I made a jig that lets me lay my parting tool on its side for grinding. I set the platform just below centerline of the wheel (based on tool thickness) and hold the jig on the platform at an angle to the wheel consistent with the parting tool cutting face. Works for me.

I'm having trouble picturing what you're describing. What does the jig look like? Also by "on its side", do you mean the wide part of the side, or the thin? I was taught to sharpen the tool with the wide side flat on the platform, 90 degrees rotated from what is being done in this picture (obviously, my tool has a flat profile -- I wouldn't be able to lay a diamond cross-section tool flat on the platform):

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To ensure I don't get a point with a skewed end on it, the platform has to be square with the part of the wheel the tool is contacting. I can get it close eyeballing it, but it always seems just a little bit off.

[Scott Hackler]

You shouldn't need a platform to sharpen a parting tool. Use the long arm with the pocket and slide it up until the wheel matches the current or desired angle. Sharpen that side and flip the tool for the other side.

[Dom Garafalo]

I'm very new at turning but I too grind my flat sided parting tool on its side. What I've been doing with my parting tool is to apply a wide black magic marker to the sharpened portion of the tool and then adjust the platform to approximately the centerline of the wheel then turn the grinding wheel by hand and view where the wheel is touching the tool. I then adjust the platform a slight amount to get the angle perfect which only takes a few seconds. This approach has worked well for me and is fast.

[Robert Henrickson]

With very little practice you can do it freehand.

[John K Jordan]

I sharpen these freehand (held against a flat or round bar rest), but I think you could easily make a little wooden jig with a lip to keep it perfectly aligned on the rest with a slot to hold the parting tool upright.

[Mike Goetzke]

Do yourself a favor and get a "ROBO REST". Very ingenious platform to repeatably set angles in increments of 5 degrees. I'm a novice turner and trying to use a freehand 40/40 grind on my bowl gouge - Reed's platform makes it easier to get the grind angles correct. He has one that is made to be used with the Wolverine system.

Mike

[Jeramie Johnson]

Do yourself a favor and get a "ROBO REST". Very ingenious platform to repeatably set angles in increments of 5 degrees. I'm a novice turner and trying to use a freehand 40/40 grind on my bowl gouge - Reed's platform makes it easier to get the grind angles correct. He has one that is made to be used with the Wolverine system.

Mike

I second this. Love my Robo rest and I also have the Wolverine.

[Peter Fabricius]

Try using the belt sander, easy and effective. Works well for getting a flat on the edges. If you want you can hone the flats after the belt sander.
Peter F.

[Vince Welch]

Aaron,
Here is a quick video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ubfoe0h9NZA) Oneway put out years ago. 9:30 starts the parting tool section.
Vince

[Aaron Craven]

Do yourself a favor and get a "ROBO REST". Very ingenious platform to repeatably set angles in increments of 5 degrees. I'm a novice turner and trying to use a freehand 40/40 grind on my bowl gouge - Reed's platform makes it easier to get the grind angles correct. He has one that is made to be used with the Wolverine system.

Mike

I would LOVE too... but I don't have the funds at the moment.. :(

[Eugene Dixon]

I'm having trouble picturing what you're describing. What does the jig look like? Also by "on its side", do you mean the wide part of the side, or the thin? I was taught to sharpen the tool with the wide side flat on the platform, 90 degrees rotated from what is being done in this picture (obviously, my tool has a flat profile -- I wouldn't be able to lay a diamond cross-section tool flat on the platform):

347204

To ensure I don't get a point with a skewed end on it, the platform has to be square with the part of the wheel the tool is contacting. I can get it close eyeballing it, but it always seems just a little bit off.

Yes,
wide part of tool. I fixed the sides of the jig so that I have to press the tool into the jigs two "walls" of hardboard. I have to eye ball it to make sure the bottom of the jig and the centerline of the long width of the tool are parallel. Laying this on the grinder flat plate lets me minimize the hollow grind effect.

If you would like I'll try to take a picture tomorrow.
Best,

[Jamie Straw]

You shouldn't need a platform to sharpen a parting tool. Use the long arm with the pocket and slide it up until the wheel matches the current or desired angle. Sharpen that side and flip the tool for the other side.
Some of us grind some parting tools on their sides rather than vertically. A flat, square-edge parting tool is great for making a square tenon.

[Jamie Straw]

Here's a good diagram for help grinding a diamond parting tool, for those of us who aren't quite up to free-hand (although the diamonds seem most friendly to free-hand). I sharpen my flat PT and the thin PT on their sides, on the platform, to get a spot-on 90-degree with no hollow grind, makes them more versatile.
https://hiltonhandcraft.com/Articles/DiamondPartningToolSharpening.html

[Scott Hackler]

Some of us grind some parting tools on their sides rather than vertically. A flat, square-edge parting tool is great for making a square tenon.

I guess I am just not seeing the difference. When I sharpen my parting tool by placing the handle end in the long arm pocket (Wolverine system), match the angle currently ground and start sharpening... I get a perfect 90 degree angle from cutting edge to the side of the tool. I use my parting tool every time I turn to make a 90 degree tenon for the chuck.

But either way, what ever works for different folks. Just seemed strange to sharpen a parting tool that way.

[William C Rogers]

I guess I am just not seeing the difference. When I sharpen my parting tool by placing the handle end in the long arm pocket (Wolverine system), match the angle currently ground and start sharpening... I get a perfect 90 degree angle from cutting edge to the side of the tool. I use my parting tool every time I turn to make a 90 degree tenon for the chuck.

But either way, what ever works for different folks. Just seemed strange to sharpen a parting tool that way.

i sharpen mine like you do. Quick and works.

[Aaron Craven]

Thanks for all the replies.. I'm still not sure how to get exactly what I want, but I'll work on it.

To answer a few questions:

* I prefer to grind my parting tool on the flat side because (as noted in the video link someone posted), this actually creates a very slight hollow grind on the edge. When done correctly, the points cut in while the center peels away shavings. The hollow is almost imperceptible, but it does seem to make a very real difference in the way the tool cuts.

* My problem isn't repeatability. If I can establish a square face, I should be able to maintain that fairly well. My problem is that I have not maintained it very well, and now I have a grind that is very slightly skewed. This is a direct result of not having the platform as close to square with the grinding surface as possible. I need to re-establish the correct grind and to ensure I DO maintain that grind, find a way to get the platform at the correct angle every time I need to re-grind.

[William C Rogers]

I haven't tried this, but do something similar for my bowl gouges. It might work. Somehow find your ideal platform setting. Now measure between the platform where it slides into the base. Make a block this lengtt. Now you can use the block to set the platform the same distance each time. With your ideal setup measure between the wheel and platform and make a wood shim for that. I would think you could now set the platform the same every time by sliding it in and then moving the angle against the shim and wheel. Hope this makes sense. Haven't tried this, but to me it would work.

[Jamie Straw]

Thanks for all the replies.. I'm still not sure how to get exactly what I want, but I'll work on it.

To answer a few questions:

* I prefer to grind my parting tool on the flat side because (as noted in the video link someone posted), this actually creates a very slight hollow grind on the edge. When done correctly, the points cut in while the center peels away shavings. The hollow is almost imperceptible, but it does seem to make a very real difference in the way the tool cuts.

* My problem isn't repeatability. If I can establish a square face, I should be able to maintain that fairly well. My problem is that I have not maintained it very well, and now I have a grind that is very slightly skewed. This is a direct result of not having the platform as close to square with the grinding surface as possible. I need to re-establish the correct grind and to ensure I DO maintain that grind, find a way to get the platform at the correct angle every time I need to re-grind.

Aaron, here are a couple of pictures. I use the thick edge of my small square to get very close to 90 degrees on the platform (first picture). It should sit flush against the wheel. If I need to double-check it, I lay the long edge (side) of the parting tool or another 90-degree-edged tool (e.g., skew) on the platform, against the wheel, and turn the wheel by hand a short way, then look at the scratch pattern on the side's edge. If it's scratching equally, I'm good to go.

Second picture is simply the parting tool laid on the platform in position for sharpening. (PS: I usually have the platform closer to the wheel for actual sharpening!)

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[Bruce Wilson]

Get a flat diamond stone. mark cutting ends with sharpie. sharpen by hand holding parting tool on the colored sharpie ends and push away from you, towards the point of the tool. repeat until the sharpie coloring is gone. repeat for other side. Probably the wrong way, but that's what I do.

[Richard Madden]

How about using a combination square with a centering head held against the grinding wheel. Then the platform can be adjusted to lay flat and true to the blade of the square? I think Cindy Drozda showed this in one of her videos.