Understanding "floor standing/model" planers

[John Sayen]

Hi all,

I've been reading for quite some time but finally decided to make an account as I'm puzzled by something as a new woodworker.

Everything I've read thus far about making square boards from rough sawn lumber is that you first start by jointing an edge, then a face, and then utilizing a planer to produce a parallel face.

Basically, in order to produce a square board with parallel faces you need to joint the opposite face first.

Many people on this forum seem to recommend an 8" jointer and a 15" or 20" floor standing planer, and it's got me very confused, as some have suggested that having the extra width over the 12" benchtop models is nice to have. I understand there are other benefits to a floor standing planer such as more HP and more machine weight.

My specific question is: How can you effectively plane something over 8" wide if you only have an 8" jointer?

Thank you.

[Art Mann]

Yes, you are absolutely right. Partially due to this fact, I sold my planer and jointer and bought a jointer/planer combo machine which will flatten and thickness a 12 inch board.

[Van Huskey]

Well... it gets complicated.

First, you can joint a board wider than your jointer, there are methods but they require two passes. Second, you can actually joint a face on the planer with a planer sled. Third, you can run multiple boards side by side on the planer at the same time. Fourth, depending on how rough the wood you get in is you may skip plane it before going to the jointer. So the 100+ year US shop mentality of a wider planer than jointer has its reasons and benefits, though there certainly were/are shops that have jointers as wide and occasionally wider than the planer, I have a friend with a 30" jointer and a 24" planer.

In the end most wider planers are used to run multiple boards at a time and is the biggest reason planers are usually wider than jointers. The cheaper planers without segmented infeed rollers need the stock to be a similar thickness BTW.

[Andrew Hughes]

My specific question is: How can you effectively plane something over 8" wide if you only have an 8" jointer?

This is what I used on wide rough boards when I had a 8 inch jointer.

[Van Huskey]

My specific question is: How can you effectively plane something over 8" wide if you only have an 8" jointer?

This is what I used on wide rough boards when I had a 8 inch jointer.



You have now extended the question to why have a powered jointer or planer at all... :D

[Andrew Hughes]

You have now extended the question to why have a powered jointer or planer at all... :D

I know it's madness,Anyway you slice it they both take skill to use properly.No amount of youtubin will get it.;)

[Jerry Miner]

John--

I think you got your question answered, but I want to correct a statement in your original post:

... you first start by jointing an edge, then a face, and then utilizing a planer to produce a parallel face.

You should start by jointing a face, then an edge (in order to get the edge square to the face)

[glenn bradley]

Hi John, thanks for joining up. In answer to you specific question I think Van nailed it. I use a planer sled that i made (and used way too often) before I had an 8" jointer.

346994 . 346993

Most of the parts I use in a piece of furniture are less than 8" wide. This doesn't help unless you break down your parts into rough-sized blanks before milling your parts. I used to mill larger boards and then cut parts out of that blank. I am now a little more selective about what part of a board I make a given part out of so the requirement for a wider jointer (although I sure wouldn't turn one down) is not so very important to me and how I work.

346995 . 346996

These differences between us all and how we work is why you will read posts by someone who has used a 6" (or even a 4") jointer since forever and sees no need to get a wider one. Other of us find different needs or want conveniences enough to change for them.

[Van Huskey]

These differences between us all and how we work is why you will read posts by someone who has used a 6" (or even a 4") jointer since forever and sees no need to get a wider one.

And you see someone with a 16" jointer looking for a 24" jointer...

[Matt Day]

Van nailed it.

Bigger is always better when I comes to jointers and planers (or planets as my autocorrect ALWAYS says).

[John Sayen]

John--

I think you got your question answered, but I want to correct a statement in your original post:

... you first start by jointing an edge, then a face, and then utilizing a planer to produce a parallel face.

You should start by jointing a face, then an edge (in order to get the edge square to the face)

Thanks. I got mixed up and appreciate the help.

[John Sayen]

I used to mill larger boards and then cut parts out of that blank. I am now a little more selective about what part of a board I make a given part out of so the requirement for a wider jointer (although I sure wouldn't turn one down) is not so very important to me and how I work

Interesting, thank you for sharing. I have a [probably silly] question though. If you can't joint the wide board, how do you rip the board safely before jointing it? Doesn't safely ripping on a table saw require a jointed edge?

[Robert Engel]

You can joint a board wider than your jointer using the trick of removing guard and jointing the board leaving extra width off jointer.
Then you place a piece of 1/4" plywood under the jointed side leaving unjointed strip hanging off then sending through thickness planer.

Flip over and plane off the unjointed part.

Hope this makes sense. Sorry, had a pic can't find it.

[Dan Friedrichs]

Interesting, thank you for sharing. I have a [probably silly] question though. If you can't joint the wide board, how do you rip the board safely before jointing it? Doesn't safely ripping on a table saw require a jointed edge?
Yes, you should have a straight edge to run against the rip fence. You can get that from running it through the jointer, first, but realize that the jointed edge is not (necessarily) perpendicular to the face, so you'll want to joint the edge, again, once you've jointed the face.

You could also use a track saw (or a circular saw with a guide rail) to make one edge of the board straight, before ripping. You could also rip on a bandsaw.

[Grant Wilkinson]

Also, in reply to your direct question, a planer that will take boards wider than your jointer will take allows you to plane glue up panels. I only have a 6" jointer, and routinely joint boards that are 4" wide. Then I glue them in to 12" panels and plane the panel in my 13" planer. By keeping the boards in the panel narrow and having the grain "flipped" when gluing them up, I avoid cupping of the end product.

[Phil Mueller]

John, you can use a straight line rip jig (made or purchased). Here's one example:

347081

Just google table saw straight line rip jig and many examples show up, as well as "how to make" instructions.

[Darcy Warner]

I run a 30" jointer and 30" planer.