12/4 Maple

[Chuck Harris]

Getting ready to build a kitchen butcher block rolling table for a client. the plan is the top will be 30" x30" made from 12/4 Maple. I was trying to designit so there are no mechanical pasteners in most of the construction. I planned to have the wide face of the plank up 4 boards wide.


Here's the question would it work to cut a wide dado in one edge of the board about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 deep and cut a matching tennon on the other face. Then drill and drive dowels through to fasten to planks together. I'm concerned about strength and longevety in this piece.

[Mike Vermeil]

A cheaper & more stable way to build it would be to glue up 3" strips of 8/4 maple turned on edge. Less chance of warping, tougher working surface, etc. Use good glue & there's no need for any type of mechanical fastner or other joinery, unless you want help lining up the boards during glue-up.

[lou sansone]

if you decide to go ahead with the 12/4 maple I would think that the surface area would be sufficient to make for a strong glue bond. There is really nothing trying to pull the boards apart.


lou

[Alan Turner]

In this application, where the piece will be exposedto moisture, I would consider a non-creeping, water resistant glue, such as Unibond 800. It is also gap filling. You should need no mechanical fasteners, but might want to use a couple of short dowels, or biscuits, only for alignment during glue up.

[Vaughn McMillan]

A cheaper & more stable way to build it would be to glue up 3" strips of 8/4 maple turned on edge. Less chance of warping, tougher working surface, etc. Use good glue & there's no need for any type of mechanical fastner or other joinery, unless you want help lining up the boards during glue-up.
I second Mike's recommendation, although I'd orient the maple so the cutting surface is end grain. For a true butcher block, end grain is the only way to go, IMHO. Same amount of wood, but probably more work to put it together. Still worth it in the long run. And as Mike says, the only need for anything beyond glue is if you want help lining up the pieces. For glue, I'd suggest something with a decent working time, unless you're doing the glue-up in relatively small stages.

- Vaughn

[Phil Phelps]

...they sell them in various sizes up to 36" x 96" ready to go. Freight might be pricey ;)

[Chuck Harris]

I already have the 12/4, 1 board 8ft+ and 11in wide. With no twist or warp that can bee seen with the naked eye. It's clear with no knots or defects as well. The only lumber yard worth a crap in Reno is OUT of 8/4 and won't have any for at least 2 weeks. The other thing is it's not often they have wide 12/4 in stock. I also like to see the booard before I buy it.

Anyway I was thinking about the durability of the construction process more than anything else. Edge gluing was my first thought. I was thhinking that I would challange my self on this project by using as few mechanical fastners as possible. I'm planning on dowel pinned mortice and tennon joints on the leg streachers and dovetails for the leg to rail joints.

Edge gluing would be faster but the exposed dowel pins might look nice as well.

I could have bought a pre made one at the lumber yard as well. But then it wouldn't be my work would it?

[Don Baer]

Edge gluing would be faster but the exposed dowel pins might look nice as well.



If you want to realy make it look nice make the dowels out of some contrasting wood like walnut or purpe heart...:rolleyes:

[Andy Hoyt]

I already have the 12/4, 1 board 8ft+ and 11in wide. With no twist or warp that can bee seen with the naked eye. It's clear with no knots or defects as well.

Seems to me that this chunk of quality maple could serve a better purpose in another project. Take a drive up to Truckee or So LT. With all the high priced stuff being built up there, I'm sure yuo could find some 8/4 fairly easily.

[Chuck Harris]

Hey Andy,

Thats the problem around here. With all the high priced stuff being built in Reno. There isn't much on either side of the lake. It goes in spurts here. Last year it was knotty alder. I was in the lumber store here and there was plenty. I went back 3 days later and none. One of the local cabinet shops bought 4 palets cleaned them out.

[Chris Giles]

Chuck,

If this project were going through my shop, I would cut two full-length grooves 3/8" thick x 1" deep into the edge of each piece about 1/2" in from the faces, and use 2 splines 3/8" x 2" in each joint. The ends of these splines are exposed on the edges of the table top, so this gives you the opportunity to use a contrasting wood if you so desire. I believe the splines are a little easier to machine for accurately in stock this large than a T & G edge.

[Steve Schoene]

If your maple plank is 11" wide, and your table is 30" wide, why do you plan on having 4 boards wide insead of three?

Don't see why you should need splines or biscuits or the like, a good glue joint will be VERY strong in this application. Just remember that with a three inch thick glue joint you need a LOT of clamping pressure to get into the desired lb/sq foot range. Titebond recommends 175 psi to 250 psi for hardwoods.

[lou sansone]

If your maple plank is 11" wide, and your table is 30" wide, why do you plan on having 4 boards wide insead of three?

Don't see why you should need splines or biscuits or the like, a good glue joint will be VERY strong in this application. Just remember that with a three inch thick glue joint you need a LOT of clamping pressure to get into the desired lb/sq foot range. Titebond recommends 175 psi to 250 psi for hardwoods.

I agree with steve. take a look at all of the commercial butcher block tops, they are all simply glued up period.