Handsaw refiling

[Zahid Naqvi]

I am thinking about refiling a gent's saw to a rip tooth pattern for dovetailing. I have a standard brass backed saw that I want to use for this purpose. Should I grind out all the existing teeth and start from scratch? or just refile the existing ones to a rip pattern?

Any tips or advice is welcome.

[Brent Smith]

Zahid,

If it was me doing it, I'd just refile the teeth to a rip pattern. You already have the spacing so why start from scratch. You might want to pass a mill file over the top of the teeth first just to make sure you're starting with everything even.

I'm sure someone with alot more experience at saw sharpening will have more and better advise for you.

Brent

[Alan Turner]

I would not grind at all. You will get heat, which will furhter harden the metal, making the filing quite difficult. Just joint the teeth firmly, and then file it rip. You have the spacing already established, so it should not be too bad.

[Dan Forman]

Zahid---Just curious whether you found a Zona saw and if you did, what you thought of it. I did get a 24 tooth model, but it didn't really seem to speed things up any. Good luck with the refiling, and let us know how it works out.

Dan

[Zahid Naqvi]

Actually after reading the descriptions etc. on their website I decided against a Zona. It seems the primary requirement for a good dovetail saw is the rip teeth (although many use a cross cut without any problems). So I got myself a gent's saw and am going to try and file its teeth to make a rip saw. We'll see how this goes. I got a basic English saw from Woodcraft, nothing fancy.

[Michael Perata]

....Zona saw and if you did, what you thought of it. I did get a 24 tooth model, but it didn't really seem to speed things up any. Dan
Dan

Goto www.zonatools.com and click on Razor Saw.

I used a Zona 32TPI in my dovetail class. Instructor saw me stumbling with my Lie-Nielsen dovetail rip and handed me the Zona. Never took the L-N saw out of the bag the rest of the weekend.

[Jim Stastny]

[QUOTE=Michael Perata]Dan

Goto www.zonatools.com and click on Razor Saw.

That should be zonatool.com, not tools

[Alan Turner]

Zahid,
Call me a wimp if you like, but I have cut a fair number of DT's, and all with a gent's saw. Filing will help a bunch, both for the rip pattern, and to eliminate the bulged metal at the base of the gullets which are the result of the machine based setting of the teeth. Go for it.

[Roy Wall]

Zahid,
Call me a wimp if you like, but I have cut a fair number of DT's, and all with a gent's saw. Filing will help a bunch, both for the rip pattern, and to eliminate the bulged metal at the base of the gullets which are the result of the machine based setting of the teeth. Go for it.

Zahid,

Listen to Master Alan.......the force is with you!!

It's no biggie, just file every other tooth rip at first if you want...that will help in itself!

[Jasper Homminga]

just file every other tooth rip at first if you want
Roy, wouldn't that create a saw with rip teeth on one side and crosscut teeth on the other? I would guess that saw would wander to one side (not sure wich side).

Jasper

[Roy Wall]

I suppose it could...


I've experimented a little and didn't have a problem. I think I got that tip from a Tom Law video.......

I just put a wetstone to the sides of the blade a few strokes if it is wandering...

[jack christensen]

Zahid

A couple of years ago I took a Lee Valley gents saw, filed the teeth off and then filed new rip teeth (12 ppi) according to instructions on http://www.norsewoodsmith.com (http://www.norsewoodsmith.com/), which is a marvelous site. Also made a pistol grip handle according to instructions on that site. I think the handle is a major improvement. Used a Lee Valley saw set and then rubbed each side on 220 grit wet or dry sandpaper till I got a smooth cut.

This was the first time I tried sharpening a handsaw. The whole thing took 2 days and I ended up with a great saw. I've since bought a LN Independence saw, and while the LN feels nicer I can't really see a difference in the cut. The top one in th pic is the LN saw.

[Zahid Naqvi]

Zahid

A couple of years ago I took a Lee Valley gents saw, filed the teeth off and then filed new rip teeth (12 ppi) according to instructions on http://www.norsewoodsmith.com (http://www.norsewoodsmith.com/), which is a marvelous site. Also made a pistol grip handle according to instructions on that site. I think the handle is a major improvement.

Thanks Jack, I was actually wondering if that could be done. I've never used a saw with a pistol grip, perhaps it's time to try one :D .

[Mario Brissette]

Hi everybody !

I'm new to this forum. I discovered this thread and I did a saw like Jack with a LeeValley Gent Saw. I want to share with you my experience. I dislike the hand of the gent saw because you don't have a perfect control of the cut line. Your wrist may take any direction. That's why a made my own hand. Here is a picture of mine. I made it with bird eye maple and finish it with 2 coats of tung oil and with 3 coats ofdanish oil. I bought the chicago nuts from LeeValley.

A piece of bird's eye maple : 5$
Chicago nuts : 5$
A evening of fun to made this : Priceless !!! :D

http://membres.lycos.fr/diver23/image/mortaise/scie01.jpg

You can download a PDF file of the plan of the hand with the following link
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~kmuldrew/woodworking/sawhandl.pdf

Also, here is a link to the page that help me to make it.

http://www.ucalgary.ca/~kmuldrew/woodworking/revelations_1.html

Excuse all my mistakes, english is a second language for me. I'm a french canadian :o

[Mike Wenzloff]

Very nice Mario--in any language!

Making saws or making saws work better is a great way of spending an evening. Here's the prototype in the making for a series of half-back saws for bench use I am making. So far, there are 12-15 that will be finished in this style.

The handle needs its final shaping, and the handle and blade yet need drilled. The it'll be refiled and ready for the bench. The blade is 19". Handles are Bubinga. It's a few hours from being finished.

Lighter than a backsaw of comparable size, the little bit of a back made from brass flatstock adds much stiffness. Sorry for the blurry pic, I hadn't had my morning coffee when I took this picture <G>.

http://www.wenzloffandsons.com/temp/saws/halfback_0001a.jpg

[Bob Noles]

Very nice Mario--in any language!

Making saws or making saws work better is a great way of spending an evening. Here's the prototype in the making for a series of half-back saws for bench use I am making. So far, there are 12-15 that will be finished in this style.

The handle needs its final shaping, and the handle and blade yet need drilled. The it'll be refiled and ready for the bench. The blade is 19". Handles are Bubinga. It's a few hours from being finished.

Lighter than a backsaw of comparable size, the little bit of a back made from brass flatstock adds much stiffness. Sorry for the blurry pic, I hadn't had my morning coffee when I took this picture <G>.

http://www.wenzloffandsons.com/temp/saws/halfback_0001a.jpg






Nice job as always Mike. I really like the style of that one.

[Mike Wenzloff]

Thank you, Bob.

They are a pleasure to make. I hope the recipients will likewise find them a useful addition to their shops.

Mike

[Mario Brissette]

Very nice saw Mike !

I have a question. Is there a reason why you made only an "half" back to your saw ?

[Mike Wenzloff]

Very nice saw Mike !
I have a question. Is there a reason why you made only an "half" back to your saw ?
Hi Mario,

A couple reasons, really. The primary reason is to allow the toe to be used for cutting without the obstruction caused by the back. Another is weight.

Short panel saws are nice to use at the bench, this is just a variation.

Thank you, Mike

[Mario Brissette]

Thanks.

These are good reasons ! Anyway, this is a beautiful saw !

Making his own tools is something that place a woodworker a step up !

[Gary White]

Very nice saws Mike and Mario.