Remodeling question - Formica to Formica????

[Dennis Peacock]

I'd like to ask if there's a way that new formica/Wilsonart can be glued to old forimca? I have a situation where the fumes from contact cement would make people sick and I can't risk that. Is there a proven technology that allows old HPL to be covered up with new HPL??

[Bob Vavricka]

I think it will work if you rough up the old Formica a little bit, but it is going to take contact cement to make it stick--so if the fumes are an issue that's not a solution. Looks like its time for some granite :).

[Jim Becker]

Yes, you can. Abrading and cleaning the surface is a good idea. But as already noted, you still need to use contact cement. There are water borne versions you can use that are much lower VOC, but some folks say they are not as good as solvent-based adhesive. The water borne version worked fine for me anytime I've used it, but I never was working with layering as you need to do.

[John Lanciani]

I did it in my own house about 5 years ago. I used the low voc contact cement and it is still rock solid today.

[Peter Kelly]

I'd recommend Titan DX (http://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Better-Bond-Titan-DX-Premium-Contact-Cement.html) contact cement from Veneer Supplies. Very low VOCs and great bond strength.

That said, I wouldn't recommend laminating over an old countertop. Previous formulations of contact cement have a tendency to dry out over time and de-laminate from the core of a top. Also, the texture of the top you're going over needs to be similar in texture to the backer side of laminate for the adhesive to get adequate grip. It'd be a lot of time and mess on-site to grind off all of the melamine and paper layer, chips and dust everywhere from trimming, etc. End of the day, you're best off making a completely new top outside the install location and just trading them out. If you're careful with removal, the old top can serve as a template for the new one.

[Malcolm McLeod]

Solvent fumes don't bother me or mine, and what I think might be minor could put someone else in the ER. So, I'll stay out of the discussion except to offer that the water borne products could fit the situation. (I've never used water borne contact cements).

As for the existing tops, I'll take the OP at face value and assume the existing covering IS a laminate product. It is very easy to remove with a heat gun and a putty knife. I've done it 4-5 times, and the remaining substrate is much easier to recover with the new laminate.

[John A langley]

I personally would not put new laminate over old also would not want to put the new laminate on in place. I have built a lot of laminate top since 1960 And seeing them fail with the waterborne glue and overlay it's a whole lot easier to built in the shop

[Bob Grier]

I do not do laminate for a living so have very limited knowledge and skill. This past year I removed laminate from some kitchen counter tops and reapplied it in other places to accommodate temporarily relocating cabinets to make room for other work to take place. It was quite a bit of work removing the laminate with heat gun and putty knives.

I also made new counters in utility room and covered them with laminate as well as overlay-ed some of the existing laminate counter tops with the new laminate. Also did overlay in bathroom. The overlay of old laminate with new laminate was easy. I just sanded (scuffed) the existing and then used contact cement to lay the new laminate. The old laminate has been in place for 26 years but appeared solid. When I was getting quotes before I decided to do it my self, the installers quoted to overlay the existing. I was a little nervous about overlaying existing but did it anyway. Just easier.

[Wayne Lomman]

If the old laminate is sound and solid you have an good foundation. As others have said, the old laminate must be roughened. You should do this with a 60 or 80 grit on a belt sander. There is no need to remove all the colour but you must roughen it 100%.

Contact is the usual adhesive. The reason is that most of the curing is complete before the joint is closed and you don't get uncured glue away from the edges and it is self clamping. So therefore use a glue that doesn't require air or moisture for curing. The answer is epoxy. No voc, long enough open time and cures independently of the environment. The diffetence is that you will need a layer of half inch mdf on top for a caul and many weights. I have done many complex laminate jobs where we used epoxy because contact was not up to holding the external curves. Cheers.

[Tim Hoyt]

I have alway been leary of water-based contact cement. I had a huge failure with the stuff 20 years ago. Have used solvent based contact cement ever since. I have never been around a counter guy that used anything but solvent based. But the stuff sure is a pain. The fumes can blow up a building. Get a good respirator and fresh filters. Heed all of the safety warnings.

I have glued new plastic laminate over plastic laminate once a few years ago. I was leary of the process and wouldn't give any sort of warranty. We roughed up the existing with a belt sander. There were appearance problems at both the nosing and the backsplash. As far as I know , the new top stayed glued, but I would't do it again.

[Mel Fulks]

You could scuff the existing top and glue new with UF (plastic resin glue ).

[Lee Schierer]

Another option would be to use the Rust-O-Leum counter top restoration kit (https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/transformations/countertop-transformations) which would renew the counter top without the contact cement.