Refinishing a conference table

[Brian Kent]

My conference office in Pasadena, CA has a table that needs refinishing. The size is 15' long, 4'wide in the middle tapering to 3'2". I asked the photographer to include a coffee cup so I could see the size of the wear areas.

May I ask a few questions about what I see in these pictures?

1) I assume this is mahogany with later-added inserts made of Walnut.

2) I assume this is not stained, but that the color difference in the worn areas could be explained by the absence of finish.

3) I can't guess the finish without hands on testing.

4) This will probably need a finish remover followed by sanding.

5) I gets frequent usage, so I assume a Waterlox type finish would be the best bet.

Do these assumptions sound reasonable? I sincerely doubt that I want to take this project on myself. Do any of you furniture refinishers live in the Pasadena CA area?

Thanks for your comments on my observations

Brian Kent

This is in a United Methodist bishop's office, so the water marks in the 3rd picture are probably not from alcohol, if that helps in identifying the finish.

[John TenEyck]

I'd say you have it almost perfect. It looks like mahogany and walnut, it doesn't look like it was stained or dyed, and you can't tell what the finish is. But I think you failed to notice that the main table is likely veneered, as evidence by the edge band on the ends. If that's correct, you don't want to sand it much after stripping it. Like not much at all.

KleanStrip Premium stripper will take off nearly any finish and I'll bet it'll remove what's left on the table with no trouble. I suspect the water stains will disappear after you have it stripped. Lightly hand sand with 320 or 400 grit. That should even out any remaining color differences. If there are dings and dents you can try steaming them out, but I would not try to sand them out for fear of cutting through the veneer. I'd also flip the table over and, if the bottom is the same as the top, strip at least a small area and sand it the same as the top. Actually, I'd start there to make sure the entire refinishing process works before touching the top. Next would be a coat of Sealcoat shellac, maybe two if the mahogany is really thirsty. Another light hand sanding with 400 grit, and then the varnish of your choice. I really doubt I could apply Waterlox uniformly to something that large. I'd be looking for something like a floor varnish that has long open time so I could apply it with a pad.

John

[Jim Becker]

I suggest you do most of the finish removal with a good stripper and avoid sanding if you can. Chances are that the bulk of that conference table is veneered, clued in by how it's wrapped with solid stock on the edges and the fact that most tables like that are made that way. There's probably an MDF or similar substrate with veneer on top and you do not want to risk sanding through it.

[Ed Edwards]

As said earlier, I'd be very careful of doing much sanding.
My choice would be to turn it over an see what effect alcohol would have in loosening or removing the finish, that would determine if the finish was shellac. Then see what happens when using lacquer thinner to determine a lacquer finish. I've been successful using one or the other, and could forgo the expense of a stripper. In any event follow the advise given above about the amount of sanding.
A a coat or two of Sealcoat shellac would be next in my finishing regime. Ed

[Wayne Lomman]

If the substrate is mdf or chipboard, steaming dents out is a bad idea. The substrate will swell and it's history. Better to live with dents. I would avoid stripper for the same reason and remove the existing finish with solvent if possible. I avoid shellac on commercial furniture. A pre cat lacquer with no sanding sealer would be straightforward and durable. Cheers

[John TenEyck]

With due respect, Wayne, I've never had a problem stripping finish off veneered tables with any cores, including those with MDF. Solvent may work, but stripper works faster IME, and it's higher viscosity keeps it from soaking in like solvent does, and from drying so quickly. Lots of people say you can remove shellac with nothing more than DNA, but my experience has shown it's not that easy on a large surface. Stripper takes it off about as fast as you can spread it on. Same thing for NC lacquer.

John

[Wayne Lomman]

Yes, John is right here. A lesson in think before you hit the keyboard. Cheers