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Carol Mancuso
11-01-2016, 1:12 AM
I was so tickled with my first acrylic cut, I had to share. It's Plaskolite Optix acrylic sheet (.220 I thick) that I bought at Lowe's just to play around with. I was surprised that I could not cut through it in one pass, but I think it turned out fine just hitting the start button a 2nd time. I ran it at 70% 12 mm/s. The only thing I noticed is that the round hole for the jump ring is a little distorted. I also think I need to put something like cardboard under it to mitigate a few spots of flash. I was wondering though, should I lower the power for the 2nd pass?

Having fun with my new toy!!
Carol

Bert Kemp
11-01-2016, 1:24 AM
Nice Job Carol I think your settings are about right. I cut that at 10mmps and 65%pwr. I think the acrylic from Lowe's is extruded and might crack or break easily.Try some cast acrylic and see how that works.

Matt McCoy
11-01-2016, 8:09 AM
Cutting acrylic on top of cardboard is probably a fire hazzard.

Scott Marquez
11-01-2016, 9:42 AM
Cutting acrylic on top of cardboard is probably a fire hazzard.
I agree, that isn't a good idea, you might trying to putting some spacers under your project to get it off your table and eliminate the flashback that you are experiencing. You can also research "pin table", a google search of images will give some ideas.
I prefer to cut things in 1 pass, so I would suggest slowing down your speed, just keep an eye on things.
Enjoy, Scott

John Blazy
11-01-2016, 11:03 AM
Ditto on slowing down your speed. When I first started cutting acrylic, I always tested to determine fastest speed while still cutting, and wrote down all my settings. But if you cut acrylic with the fastest speed that still cuts through, you can get the coin edge effect, which looks ok for most jobs. Then I had to cut some 1/2" acryic and discovered that the slowest speeds (3mm / sec @ 95% power on my 80 watt) actually left a glass - flat edge that looks like you hand polished it. The laser is so slow, that it is leaving the ultimate polish.

So now I cut about 5mm per second slower than max speed (of given thickness) on average to get a nicer edge. Not on high volume production jobs, but on small run sculpture or jewelry pcs.

The main problem with that is added thermal stress, which adds to potential crazing from the slightest alcohol getting even barely near the cut edge, or if I plan to solvent weld to the edge, so I now anneal my parts in a small toaster oven - 180F for an hour, then let cool slowly. Makes a dramatic difference if you are gluing to the edge and want perfect clarity.

Carol Mancuso
11-01-2016, 8:38 PM
Thanks for the tips. I was a little afraid to slow the speed down too much incase it might make the acrylic sag on the edge. I'll give these ideas a try.
Carol

Bert Kemp
11-01-2016, 9:43 PM
Good catch Matt I didn't see that I agree not a good idea



Cutting acrylic on top of cardboard is probably a fire hazzard.

John Blazy
11-03-2016, 4:47 PM
All my acrylic fires have come when my cut lines are too close to the edge of the source panel. Added heat and fumes getting trapped inside my 1" square grid openings seem to be the perfect storm. now I cut at least 1/2" inside the panel.

Kev Williams
11-03-2016, 5:14 PM
FWIW, I've cut on cardboard and paper many times in my solid-table LS900, as a 'goo' buffer. It's almost impossible for it to catch fire because it's covered- oxygen can't get to it. But beware out on the edges. Also, not sure of what will happen if used on a honeycomb table.

As for cutting plex in general, sometimes it seems just getting thru all in one pass works better, other times multiple passes seem better. But, if you have the time and patience, I have a routine that takes 9 passes to get thru basic Rowark, It's a bit tedious, but the result is fantastic- no mushrooming on the edge of the cut, and the sticky edge is almost eliminated. Not having to spend the time cleaning the goo off the edges makes the extra cut time worth it...