Eric Brown
10-29-2016, 4:55 PM
First, a sampling of bits.
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L-R: Russell Jennings double twist #12, Irwin solid center #12, C.E. Jennings single twist #12, Bailey single twist #12, BGI Forstner #12, Old style spoon bit #10, New style spoon bit #10, Nose bit #6, S.T. Company #7 (for end grain). Note: Center bits not shown. There are many variations of the above bits but for the purpose of illustrating depth stops and levels they represent the majority you might be using.
Next are depth stops. There are two basic styles. The first style clamps onto the twist part of the bit (called the pod) and the second style clamps on the shaft. The following represent the ones you might be using.
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L-R: Stanley 49 (Nickel), Stanley 49 (Japanned), Craftsman 4182, Eclipse, Stanley 47, Millers Falls, Garrett.
The first four all mount to the pod. The Stanley 49 can handle bits up to 1" and fits the double twist types best. It is a little less secure on the Irwin and will sometimes fit the Bailey. It will not work with the others. The Craftsman and Eclipse are similar and are limited to #12 and smaller bits. They share the same compatibility Issues as the Stanley 49. The next three depth stops all mount to the shaft. The Stanley 47 uses a spring with a small pad on the bottom. It can handle bits from #3 to #24. The Millers has an adjustable rod with an offset holder for a ball bearing. It can handle regular bits that range from #3 to #24 but can also handle Forstners up to #40 (2 1/2"). The last is a 1881 Garrett, that has a roller at the end of the leg. It can only be used on smaller bits.
The center bits (not shown), spoon, nose, and end grain bits are usually not able to use the above types of depth stops.
Homemade ones can be made that basically are a piece of wood or dowel that slide up the pod until it contacts the brace chuck.
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L-R: Russell Jennings double twist #12, Irwin solid center #12, C.E. Jennings single twist #12, Bailey single twist #12, BGI Forstner #12, Old style spoon bit #10, New style spoon bit #10, Nose bit #6, S.T. Company #7 (for end grain). Note: Center bits not shown. There are many variations of the above bits but for the purpose of illustrating depth stops and levels they represent the majority you might be using.
Next are depth stops. There are two basic styles. The first style clamps onto the twist part of the bit (called the pod) and the second style clamps on the shaft. The following represent the ones you might be using.
346598346599346600346603346602346601346604
L-R: Stanley 49 (Nickel), Stanley 49 (Japanned), Craftsman 4182, Eclipse, Stanley 47, Millers Falls, Garrett.
The first four all mount to the pod. The Stanley 49 can handle bits up to 1" and fits the double twist types best. It is a little less secure on the Irwin and will sometimes fit the Bailey. It will not work with the others. The Craftsman and Eclipse are similar and are limited to #12 and smaller bits. They share the same compatibility Issues as the Stanley 49. The next three depth stops all mount to the shaft. The Stanley 47 uses a spring with a small pad on the bottom. It can handle bits from #3 to #24. The Millers has an adjustable rod with an offset holder for a ball bearing. It can handle regular bits that range from #3 to #24 but can also handle Forstners up to #40 (2 1/2"). The last is a 1881 Garrett, that has a roller at the end of the leg. It can only be used on smaller bits.
The center bits (not shown), spoon, nose, and end grain bits are usually not able to use the above types of depth stops.
Homemade ones can be made that basically are a piece of wood or dowel that slide up the pod until it contacts the brace chuck.